fuel lines are one--here is the other

[thummmper]

DO NOT install a shorter belt on the power steering pump-- be stubborn and install the recommended factory size--or you will draw the pump close enough to touch the red/white voltage feed wire of the idle pressure sensor switch on the pump, to the intake manifold and cause a direct short, melting the entire engine harness together- and yet, it will still run--
this fix exceeds 700.00 if you aren't up to it yourself. I have witnessed two recently-- a 1987 westy and a 90 syncro.
also, my big red alternator wire to my 1990 tin topac in the d pillar was getting hot without burning the 50A fuse, so I upsized the wire and installed a 50 amp maxi fuse, although some experienced electricians prefer fuseable links as opposed to two legged fuses due to their response time--just stuff to think about--
the westy was totaled for 8 thousand and bought back for 200. then a go westy harness was installed for 2000.00. it was originally bought for 15k. still in service 6 years later--

fuel lines aren't the only pitfall awaiting us. keep that switch off of the intake manifold--happy thanksgiving

[boroko]

Another one that I have had problems with is the power steering switch shorting and taking out the harness.
After that happened to me, I installed a fuse in the line to the switch. The issue is that there are a number of smaller wires that are joined together in the engine compartment black box. The larger feed is more than capable of turning the smaller wiring into a heating element before anything opens. In my case, it melted everything from the right side of the engine compartment back to the black box. Tedious to repair and potentially a real disaster.

Mark
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'87 SyncroWesty: Smokey the Turtle, '85 SubiWesty: Chappie, '84 GTI, '86 GTI in full Rally trim,
previous: 2 Syncro tin tops, 2 Vanagons, 3 busses, 3 Ghias, 2 Jettas, a 411, a gas and a diesel Bunny and about 25 Beetles, one that only drove left.

[tjet]

what size fuse did you install in that wire?

good idea

[IdahoDoug]

Mark - aren't you saying the exact same thing? What size fuse did you use. That's a great idea.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[boroko]

You know what, you're right. I guess I didn't read thummmper's thread close enough. I scanned it and saw "alternator" and "50 amp" fuse and my mind visualized the alternator wire. Sorry.

My switch just failed by shorting to ground all by itself. No influence from a different belt or rubbing on anything.

It was 3 vans and probably 10 years ago, so I don't remember the size of the fuse. After I spent many hours repaireing the harness with Scotch Kote and heat shrink and a new switch, I put a amp meter in the circuit and had someone bottom the steering to activate the switch and get a reading. Seems like it was only something like 5 amp. Another way would to be just check the wire size and do a search for current capacity of that wire. In all honesty, a direct short that will melt a wire will draw a significant amount of current (for a short while) so you could probably put a 15 amp in there and still save a bunch of trouble. It is only a signal for the ECU to bump up the idle, so it can't draw that much.

The fuse holder that I used was the simple inline ones that used to be common on radio power lines. A couple of spring clips that snug over the ends of the fuse and a plastic clamshell that snaps over the whole affair. I did use some grease on the connections so that it wouldn't corrode.

Sorry for stepping on the original thread, but I hope this helps.

Mark
_________________
'87 SyncroWesty: Smokey the Turtle, '85 SubiWesty: Chappie, '84 GTI, '86 GTI in full Rally trim,
previous: 2 Syncro tin tops, 2 Vanagons, 3 busses, 3 Ghias, 2 Jettas, a 411, a gas and a diesel Bunny and about 25 Beetles, one that only drove left.

[thummmper]

15 amp would be safe. I have never heard of a idle pressure switch failing, especially when the other switch wire to the digifant ecm is untouched.
the digifant is the first injection management system totally designed by vw. they failed to build in enough electronics, so all vanagons 86 on have a idle stabilization module in front of the right tail light. this is a black pack-of-cigarettes sized module that is fairly hardy and expensive when available.
I traced a blue/white wire there in the respooling process. It is an addition/ extension to and of the bosch ecm.