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Engine from a type 3 into a late bay bus
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jure-slo
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:05 am    Post subject: Engine from a type 3 into a late bay bus Reply with quote

Hi,

how much work is it to adapt an engine from type 3 to put it into a late bus?


I just got two VW engines that apear to be from a type 3, but were used in a machine for maintenace of ice...no idea how to call it...like in a ice hockey stadium. The engines should be in good condition, as they have been running on idle most of their life.

I also have a type1 engine with no compression that I can take tins and all other stuff from.
The engines were at a scrap yard, so they have been throwing them around already, but it seems they didn't do too much damage...

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Collie
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My cousin works for Zamboni, and I know for sure that all the VW engines they used were rebuilt for super low torque and never to be used for the road.....

Caution advised.
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jure-slo
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What would that mean? Different cam? Heads too?
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Collie
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

camshaft or crank for sure, not sure about the heads........but they were built to run fast at low speeds...

I dont know the specs at all, but I had the chance to buy a bunch of them and I passed..........
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jure-slo
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You think these were built by Zamboni?


What obut my original question:
How hard is it to adapt an engine from type3 for use in a bus?
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Collie
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I doubt they were reworked at Zamboni, most likely a special order.

And, no, I dont think you should put that motor in a bus, buy the proper mpter
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jure-slo
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Collie wrote:

And, no, I dont think you should put that motor in a bus, buy the proper mpter


Already did that once an I am very satisfied, but now I'm looking for cheap options to get the second bus running for my girl. Yeah..she wants one too...
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could use a dial indicator to find out the specs for the cam they used to see if it were radically different from an automotive cam. A compression test would give you some idea of the condition and maybe a little something about the compression ratio. It wouldn't be hard at all to figure out the stroke, but not sure how you would determine the bore without removing a head.

If the price is right just grab it and have some fun.
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RatCamper
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 5:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Wildthings. Man, I'd be stoked to get my hands on it. Even that funky transmission looks interesting.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I concur, especially since you are in Europe and have better odds of finding 1600 bus mounts and cooling tin, could be well worth the gamble.
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jure-slo
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
I concur, especially since you are in Europe and have better odds of finding 1600 bus mounts and cooling tin, could be well worth the gamble.



Yes, I have three complete 1600 late bus engines...

I will do a compression test. I already fired one up and it runs nice and smooth with no smoke.

I was told the trans is from a Willys Jeep. No real stress on it ever as it was only driven on ice at low speed...

Still, noone ansewered my original question Crying or Very sad
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
I concur, especially since you are in Europe and have better odds of finding 1600 bus mounts and cooling tin, could be well worth the gamble.


That would be the right way to do it. It would be pretty tough to get the type 3 cooling and engine mounts to work in a bus. The type 3 cases usually aren't drilled for an oil sender though. I'm not sure what the usual solution to that is.
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Stoner A is cylinders #2/4 B is #1/3 The plugged bowl is the throttle, the bong is the manifold
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If these T3 engines have universal cases, its easy. But if they are original T3 cases, they don't have the hole for the oil pressure switch and the hole/tube for a dipstick. Places like Bugpack used to sell and part that would incorporate a new part bolted to the T3 fill tube location and incorporate a dipstick. VW specially machine shops used to drill and tap the case for the oil pressure switch. If you intend to use a doghouse fan shroud, you can use the original cooler and it has the location for the switch. Kinda hookey, but workable.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jure-slo wrote:

I was told the trans is from a Willys Jeep.

Why has no-one made an aircooled Willys Jeep? it'd probably have more HP.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RatCamper wrote:
jure-slo wrote:

I was told the trans is from a Willys Jeep.

Why has no-one made an aircooled Willys Jeep? it'd probably have more HP.


Its called a Kubelwagen
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
RatCamper wrote:
jure-slo wrote:

I was told the trans is from a Willys Jeep.

Why has no-one made an aircooled Willys Jeep? it'd probably have more HP.


Its called a Kubelwagen


Good call Laughing
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jure-slo
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I was thinking to switch to doghouse. Would it all fit? Are all the holes that I need there? I noticed that there is no hole for the oil sender, but there is a sender on the oil cooler. So I could use this cooler with a doghouse shroud? And route the wire trough the shroud somehow? I never worked on a type1 engine, only type4.
At least the dipstick is there and the points where rear crossbar is mounted are there too and have threads.
A big concern is this:
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Aparently that shaft was rubbing the fan shroud for a long time...
The cooling probably wasn't excelent.
A compression test willl tell me more-when I find the time to do it.

On the case it says made in Brazil, on the head I popped the lid of it said Mexico.
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Oh and the price: I have to bring back the same weight of steel + 100kg...And belive me, those transmissions are heavy Confused
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rockerarm
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I already addressed the dipstick and oil pressure switch issues. As I said it may be a bit hokey but if one does not want to drill the case or complete dis-assemble, it will work.
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jure-slo
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The dipstick is in it's normal place, so that won't be a problem. And I could live with the oil sender behind the shroud.
After seeng the big hole in the shroud I am not too optimistic anyway...
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rockerarm
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All that T3 sheetmetal and cooling parts are removed and not reused. You take it down a long block and rebuild it up as a T1. Of course I would inspect/check head torque, etc, while it is in the long block state. Does the gland nut have a pilot bearing? Lots of things to llok at once it is down to that long block state.
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