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Torque for ball joint / rod ends w locknuts?
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ceh1138
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Joined: March 18, 2011
Posts: 13
Location: santa cruz, ca
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:05 pm    Post subject: Torque for ball joint / rod ends w locknuts? Reply with quote

i recently bought new tie rod ends and ball joints for my 74 ghia. they came with nylock nuts and no provisions for cotter pins.
is the torque value going to be the same as stock for these?
also, i'm having trouble with the camber/caster adjuster nut locking onto the ball joint stud and rotating in the spindle, constantly changing the adjustment! it doesn't need to be pressed into the spindle does it? i put anti seize on all the studs to keep them from being such a massive pain to remove next time.
this is my first time dealing w vw front end. had my buddy help me install the sway bar, that was a process!
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32598
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a general rule, ball joints with self locking nuts are often a bottom of the barrel product.
The better brands use castle nuts because of the superior properties of them.

The nylon lock nuts are hard to install for the threaded rod of the ball rotates because of the friction of the nylon in the nut.
Some have a hex inside the top of the stud or a flat spot to get a wrench on at the top of the threads......

Also how tight do you make it? You've got all of that friction in the nylon to overcome.

It's not an answer but make it tight but don't strip it out! It's a "feel" kind of project.

Good luck, hope you find a better answer than I just gave you!

This link might help you sort it out.......
http://nylok.com/nylok-basics

Dave
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ceh1138
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Joined: March 18, 2011
Posts: 13
Location: santa cruz, ca
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the reply.
yeah,i also had the problem with the stud turning instead of tightening the nut. i was considering using a dremel to flatten two sides at the top of the stud so i could grab it with a vise grip or something while i torque it down.
was also thinking of drilling holes for cotter pins, but theres lots of problems with executing that idea....
i got the ball joints because they are 'clearanced for lowered vws'. hope that wasn't just a sales gimmick!
any clue with the adjuster nut?
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