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degree pulley ring timing
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fes
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 1:14 pm    Post subject: degree pulley ring timing Reply with quote

I don't want to go through the hassle of removing my pulley to replace it with the degree marked ones.. Cip1 sells c13-8738 stock replacement ring 6 3/4" that epoxys on...Worth it? will it fit?(1600dp) anybody try one of these?
$23 to save on the hassle of taking off my old one and putting a cheap looking likely made in china one
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I don't want to go through the hassle


Have you ever removed a type 1 pulley? Last one I did took about 45 seconds. They can be harder if they are on tight but epoxying on a ring seems to be a huge hassle in comparison.
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fes
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Quote:
I don't want to go through the hassle


Have you ever removed a type 1 pulley? Last one I did took about 45 seconds. They can be harder if they are on tight but epoxying on a ring seems to be a huge hassle in comparison.


Indeed i have..And it took longer than 45 seconds,I don't really like the look of the fancy alloy ones, besides my belt tension is perfect right now as is everything nicely painted..don't want to muck around with anything if i don't have to
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For me, having a degreed pulley makes timing and valve adjustment easier and more accurate. If you glue a ring onto a stock pulley, you'd better be sure you have it in the right place.
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fes
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
For me, having a degreed pulley makes timing and valve adjustment easier and more accurate. If you glue a ring onto a stock pulley, you'd better be sure you have it in the right place.


That's the plan haha.. i'm wondering if these flat rings will even work on a stock pulley or are the more geared for replacement of aftermarket flat style pulleys
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not just get a timing light where you can dial in the advance. That way you only need a TDC mark.

Degree pulleys are no longer needed.
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From CIP1
Quote:
After many years of service - it is very common for the degree markings to wear off. Now you don't have to replace your worn or scratched pulley - just replace the degree ring.


The part in question is for a pulley already with a degree ring. One that has a flat surface on the edge. A stock pulley does not fit the bill.

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fes
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

babysnakes wrote:
From CIP1
Quote:
After many years of service - it is very common for the degree markings to wear off. Now you don't have to replace your worn or scratched pulley - just replace the degree ring.


The part in question is for a pulley already with a degree ring. One that has a flat surface on the edge. A stock pulley does not fit the bill.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


That's what I'm figuring, I've always just used a standard timing light with the notches on stock pulley without any trouble....Who can recommend an after market degree wheel brand (preferably black) that's not gonna be a fortune.. I can spend $80+ easier somewhere else on the bus
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Find TDC on the OG pulley and file a notch in it. Paint the notch with a bit of white paint. Do a search on TheSamba to find out how to measure idle degrees and the max advance degrees for your engine. File notches at those points and paint them also. No need to remove the pulley or for a degree pulley. No problems with glueing on a degree ring correctly. No problems with a timing light. Put the money in the bank.

Your OG pulley might have a dimple at TDC and various notches. Those notches may or may not be accurate and the dimple is about 6 degrees wide. TDC should be 90 degrees from the keyway slot in the OG pulley.

Caveat: there are many different OG pulleys, OG notches and PO notches.

Aloha
tp
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fes
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has the standard notch at TDC and the one at the left for 5 atdc and the two little ones for 7.5 and 10 btdc to the right... never had any trouble with this... would like to have the accuracy for checking 28 degrees at 3500 rpm and setting dwell etc
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Caveat: there are many different OG pulleys, OG notches and PO notches.

Which have been swapped back and forth over the years. Sometimes I find it pretty easy to locate TDC and the timing marks on an original pulley. Other times I find it quite difficult. A degreed pulley for $40 is well worth it in my opinion.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
A degreed pulley for $40 is well worth it in my opinion.

I've seen a few aftermarket degree pulleys where the markings are a few degrees off. I've also seen cheap pulleys what are too loose and move around over time.

EMPI

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Last edited by Glenn on Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:43 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fes wrote:
Mine has the standard notch at TDC and the one at the left for 5 atdc and the two little ones for 7.5 and 10 btdc to the right... never had any trouble with this... would like to have the accuracy for checking 28 degrees at 3500 rpm and setting dwell etc


You can find 28 degrees from TDC by measuring along the circumference of the OG pulley. I've done that after finding the correct length with TheSamba search.

Aloha
tp
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
Caveat: there are many different OG pulleys, OG notches and PO notches.

Which have been swapped back and forth over the years. Sometimes I find it pretty easy to locate TDC and the timing marks on an original pulley. Other times I find it quite difficult. A degreed pulley for $40 is well worth it in my opinion.

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yes Gary but he has already decided no one elses opinion counts. Multiple people here with lots of VW and mechanical knowledge have given him alternatives but they are being ignored. Besides - I want to see what damage one of those metal rings does flying around the engine compartment like a buzz saw when it comes off. And, if he really didn't want a hassle he would have found a degree wheel image online, printed it to fit, and marked 28 degrees on the pulley. It isn't like they are hard to find. https://www.google.com/search?q=degree+wheel&b...CAcQ_AUoAg
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom Powell wrote:
fes wrote:
Mine has the standard notch at TDC and the one at the left for 5 atdc and the two little ones for 7.5 and 10 btdc to the right... never had any trouble with this... would like to have the accuracy for checking 28 degrees at 3500 rpm and setting dwell etc


You can find 28 degrees from TDC by measuring along the circumference of the OG pulley. I've done that after finding the correct length with TheSamba search.

Aloha
tp

Or print this and mark your stock pulley.

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fes
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
aeromech wrote:
Caveat: there are many different OG pulleys, OG notches and PO notches.

Which have been swapped back and forth over the years. Sometimes I find it pretty easy to locate TDC and the timing marks on an original pulley. Other times I find it quite difficult. A degreed pulley for $40 is well worth it in my opinion.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


yes Gary but he has already decided no one elses opinion counts. Multiple people here with lots of VW and mechanical knowledge have given him alternatives but they are being ignored. Besides - I want to see what damage one of those metal rings does flying around the engine compartment like a buzz saw when it comes off. And, if he really didn't want a hassle he would have found a degree wheel image online, printed it to fit, and marked 28 degrees on the pulley. It isn't like they are hard to find. https://www.google.com/search?q=degree+wheel&b...CAcQ_AUoAg


Easy there big fella! I was only asking if anyone had experience with this epoxy rings.. read further down on the posts and you will see that i have agreed that they probably wont work and and have asked for input on a decent brand for a reasonable cost
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen a few aftermarket degree pulleys where the markings are a few degrees off.

This worries me as well since any $40 pulley will be from China. The thing is I don't know of any easy way to find TDC accurately. I'm pretty sure that an OG pulley that had a TDC mark would be accurate. I guess a person could stack them and try and check the numbers that way. Also, as far as using a distance measured from TDC to find 28 degrees I've tried that as well with unsure results. Pretty much any engine I do a lot of work on usually gets a degreed pulley installed. Oh, and I do also have an advance timing light. That only works when you know where TDC is plus it doesn't help at all with valve adjustments.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or print this and mark your stock pulley.

I think I tried doing just that but first you run into a problem when printing it when it isn't the same size as the pulley. Then, unless you remove the pulley and mark it on the bench it's just a crap shoot that you'll get things lined up perfectly when it's in place. If I was going to go to the trouble to remove a pulley I'd just install a degreed one. Even though I don't trust Chinese parts I will say that as far as I know I've never had a problem using an aftermarket degreed pulley when doing tune ups.
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fes
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what brand are you running Aeromech?
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate to admit this but the last one I bought for a customer was an EMPI. At $40 it was something I felt they could afford. Other customers of mine in the past have received more expensive pulleys. Companies like BMD Pulleys come to mind.

http://www.bmdpulleys.com/

I believe I've purchased them from SCAT as well.
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