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degree pulley ring timing
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is my 25 year old Berg pulley.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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fes
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
I hate to admit this but the last one I bought for a customer was an EMPI. At $40 it was something I felt they could afford. Other customers of mine in the past have received more expensive pulleys. Companies like BMD Pulleys come to mind.

http://www.bmdpulleys.com/

I believe I've purchased them from SCAT as well.


Yeah i was sizing up the Scat as well, They sell on Cip1.ca for about $52 bucks..thanks for the help
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a cheapo degree pulley I picked up at a swap years ago, slip it on and set it to 0 then carefully slip it off and slip on the stock pulley without turning the engine, mark stock pully appropriately, repeat as necessary for 7.5 or 28 BTDC, reinstall bolt in stock pulley and put cheapo pulley back on shelf, done.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have printed and used the ring Glenn posted in the past. It works well and the size is about right. If you do not want to remove your pulley, find the center of the print and using a few bits of clear tape, jockey it into position. Take your time and get it right. Measure (check) twice, mark (cut) once.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
This is my 25 year old Berg pulley.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
Glenn wrote:
This is my 25 year old Berg pulley.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The gold standard

Looks silver to me Wink

The Berg is maybe 3x the cost of the cheap ones, but it lasts 10x longer. So which is the better deal?
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So which is the better deal?

If I bought one now it would be 40 years too late.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a degree pulley and upgrade to the heavier style to get the get extra benefits. Kill two birds with one stone and be done with it. Etched is better than a stick on label.

Swapping out the pulley may take longer than 45 seconds, but it shouldn't take longer than 15 minutes.

Or using your old stock 7" diameter pulley you can make a mark 1 3/4" over from TDC for 28°.


Last edited by Wildthings on Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the most part some excellent input.. so I'm thinking as follows...
Get a good quality degree pulley
Print off method..
Bus daddy's trick is quite smart, but if I'm gonna pull the pulley off, I might as well replace it..
Leave it alone and do what i've been doing for 20yrs with white out and do measure for the 28 degree mark
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Buy a degree pulley and upgrade to the heavier style to get the get extra benefits. Kill two birds with one stone and be done with it.

Or using your old stock 7" diameter pulley you can make a mark 1 3/4" over from TDC for 28°.

I was going to ask about those 5.5lb or so pulleys..would it make any difference on a relatively stock 1600?
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fes wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Buy a degree pulley and upgrade to the heavier style to get the get extra benefits. Kill two birds with one stone and be done with it.

Or using your old stock 7" diameter pulley you can make a mark 1 3/4" over from TDC for 28°.

I was going to ask about those 5.5lb or so pulleys..would it make any difference on a relatively stock 1600?


I bought one and am happy with it as far as the weight, it did seem to smooth the engine out a bit. The one I bought was an EMPI with a glued on scale, which started coming off in about a year so had to be reattached, that part sucked.

Sadly EMPI once again lives up to its reputation. Crying or Very sad
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i guess the work with a stock belt?
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what you don't want is what is called a "Power pulley." That is a dune buggy pulley designed for a light rail where the fan speed is reduced to save HP.

A SCAT one will be fine. So will Gene Berg. Even an Empi one will be better than nothing. As to finding top dead center. There are many ways. On a Type 1 engine the plug is so close to straight up that you can use a long screwdriver and rock the engine forward and backwards until it starts to move and watch the puller as TDC will be in between. If you want perfection and have a dial indicator and magnetic base you can drill a small indent in the middle of the screwdriver plastic handle to set the dial indicator into then go either .020" or .050" drop in each direction and mark the middle.

As to paper degree wheels. Change the % of the image in your print settings. If your print driver doesn't have that, open it in Paint or a photo editor and change it there.
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Last edited by SGKent on Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:45 pm; edited 1 time in total
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The thing about measuring over 1 3/4 inches is that I can see a person missing the spot by a few degrees. Setting your timing too far advanced by accident would be bad. Why cheap out and risk it?
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never liked the look of the degree'd pulley's unless it's a non-stock engine. I prefer the stock pulleys. '

What i've done is print off the degree wheel. I then cut just the portion I need and quickly tape just the one small part that goes from 0 to 32BTDC and tape it to the original pulley that's on the car. Make sure it's line up right and the use the small file to make 28 and 32 degrees. Takes minutes and is accurate.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
I've never liked the look of the degree'd pulley's unless it's a non-stock engine. I prefer the stock pulleys. '

What i've done is print off the degree wheel. I then cut just the portion I need and quickly tape just the one small part that goes from 0 to 32BTDC and tape it to the original pulley that's on the car. Make sure it's line up right and the use the small file to make 28 and 32 degrees. Takes minutes and is accurate.


I too have always liked the stock pulley unless it was on a baja or something..that being said I'm starting to visualize the red numbered Scat that will accent my red shroud and gold block nicely..typical me..gone from doing a cheap easy bolt on (or glue-on) to throwing the bank at it..I've always wanted Gene's stuff , but it's pretty pricey for duties to Canada and shipping to the other side of the continent
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
This is my 25 year old Berg pulley.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I looked at that photo and the first thing I saw was the notch for the woodruff key was 180 degrees out.

and then ...

Aloha
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom you could rotate it but then the watermark would be upside down Laughing


One thing I didn't see mentioned was the weight of the pulley. Along with the stock weight flywheel matching a stock-weight crank, the correct weighted pulley is equally important. Managing crank flex and harmonic vibration are important to engine longevity. I would not recommend one of the "lightened" pulleys for this reason. Berg makes stock and heavier pulleys, but I'm sure they did tests to see what engine/RPM combo needs which weight.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Tom you could rotate it but then the watermark would be upside down Laughing


One thing I didn't see mentioned was the weight of the pulley. Along with the stock weight flywheel matching a stock-weight crank, the correct weighted pulley is equally important. Managing crank flex and harmonic vibration are important to engine longevity. I would not recommend one of the "lightened" pulleys for this reason. Berg makes stock and heavier pulleys, but I'm sure they did tests to see what engine/RPM combo needs which weight.

Robbie


I have always thought of this as well..I'm no engineer and i dont want to mess around with VW design. But it seems with a decent degree pulley I should be fine without problems
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny, I have that same Berg pulley and it's that same weird color.
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