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Late 1969 Ghia vert preservation/ restoration
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mcdonaldneal
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 8:29 am    Post subject: Late 1969 Ghia vert preservation/ restoration Reply with quote

I have posted threads before on some aspects of the rolling resto/ preservation of our Ghia, but I thought I would create a unified thread, and then I can just stick everything in the same place!
Might be of interest, as it a very largely original late 1969 (1970 model year) car, originally from California. My aim (as well as getting full use, and pleasure from her) is to have her as clean and as close to factory spec as I can. Comments and input all very gratefully received, and I'll try to post photos of as many original features as I can!

Previous threads:
Rear window and luggage compartment shelf
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=608164&highlight=

Unusual aftermarket side trims
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563911&highlight=

Road trip through Scotland and England with pics +++
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=599025&highlight=
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mcdonaldneal
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the engine out at the moment, so that I can instal the thermostat flaps I got from Awesomepowdercoat.

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I am taking the opportunity to clean up the wiring, and I will clean the engine compartment.
First job though, was to investigate the decklid release, which emerges by the rear bumper. My guess is this is because the cable sheath has broken, or maybe the release catch wasn't 'popping the lid', making it a two man job to open the engine compartment!

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Metal tabs and grommet for the cable are still in place, and removing the tarboard revealed that the sheath is broken

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The actual release knob I have seems to be OG, but seriously shortened, so I'm hoping I can bring the broken ends together and effect a repair, maybe with fibreglass?

Question one:
The tarboard is held in place by metal tabs. At the top, these seem to be shaped to accept a cable, maybe electrical. Any guesses what should run through it?

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Question two:
Any suggestions as to what would be a good cleaning agent for the slightly oily tarboard in the engine compartment, to make it look pretty, but keep the OG look?

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Thanks
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Greezy Joe
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The tabs are for the tar board to secure it at the top, mine broke off and I had to fab up new ones.
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Owned before: 58, 69 Ghia Coupes, 64 Canvas Sunroof, 68, 72, 73, & 74 Bugs, 63 Single Cab, 65 Bus, 66 & 70 Camper
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Rome
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see what you mean about the semi-round top portion of the tarboard retaining clips. I also had a '70 way back 30 years ago as a parts car and most likely overlooked that detail. I highly doubt there is supposed to be a cable or hose held there; certainly not on a US version. The air cleaner and any possible emissions breather system was located on the right side of the car. Any type of hose/line would have been located on that side of the car. But it would be easier for VW to make a single type of retaining clip. If any other market or vehicle version had some type of hose/line which was fastened to either side of the car using those clips, then the clips for the other side of the car that did not have the hose/line would also have been utilized.

As to cleaning the tarboard, my first suggestion would be to apply a wide spray of gentle universal bio-degradable cleaner such as SimpleGreen. Apply it so that the liquid is misted over the entire surface, but certainly don't saturate it. Lay the panel down on a flat surface so that the liquid can sit on the panel surface for at least 2 minutes. Lift the panel up so that the liquid runs off, then go over the entire panel with a very soft scrub brush; or even a 2" wide cheap paint brush with the bristles cut down to about 2". You don't want the bristles to dig into the wet tarboard and disrupt the factory imprinted pattern. Run the brush front to rear as well as up/down so that the bristles go into the shallow depressions. Once brushed over, spray on a water mist with the panel upright so that dirty water runs off. Let it air dry by laying the panel flat in a warm room. Might even lay down some rolled-up dry towels on the surface so that the natural curve toward the top edge of the panel is supported and maintained, instead of the edge being unsupported and then possibly sagging down due to dampness while its drying. Then check the cleanliness in good daylight. Repeat if needed.

If you have a more severe oily spot that does not come out with this method, maybe spray it with brake cleaner spray (leaves no residue) but then turn the panel upside-down so the cleaner liquid does not drip down and leave a drip streak. Let the spot fully dry before trying it again. Maybe help the cleaner along with a few strokes of your cleaning brush. But be very careful- since the brake cleaner spray is a strong solvent, it can dissolve the surface if you touch anything to it while it is wet.
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kiwighia68
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"I see what you mean about the semi-round top portion of the tarboard retaining clips."

I think those semi-round parts were designed to hold a cable or some wiring. My guess is that it may have been for the reversing (backup) lights, which were optional on some cars. They were M 601 Special Equipment I on mine, but the wiring ran across the face of the tarboard behind the engine to the right of the car and one wire extending across to the left from there.
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mcdonaldneal
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks both, above.
I think I'll try the gentle cleaning method you suggest, Rome. Less is more, I guess!
Kiwighia, I think you're right, it looks as though it should hold something. The reversing light wires are OG in the car, and run behind the tarboard. There are even some metal clips, which I think must be to hold them. I can't see anything else thats obviously missing, so maybe it is for an option in another market.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe when the trunk release cable broke the PO used that tab for a cable guide in an initial attempt at repair. Being unsuccsessful he moved it to the bumper location for a shorter run. Question

If cleaning the tarboards isnt successful, you can "paint" them with rattle can rubberized undercoating or rattle can truckbed liner. Neither of these are a heavy thick coating like real truckbed liner or undercoat.
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kiwighia68
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

c21darrel wrote:
...If cleaning the tarboards isnt successful, you can "paint" them with rattle can rubberized undercoating or rattle can truckbed liner. Neither of these are a heavy thick coating like real truckbed liner or undercoat.


Great advice, thanks. I need to do some restoring of the tar boards too and have been on the verge of giving up.
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Bleyseng
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 25, 2014 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good pic of the tabs which I am making right now to replace all the broken off ones.
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mcdonaldneal
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slow winter progress!
Had a go at gently cleaning the engine tarboards yesterday. They weren't too bad before, but a little grubby.

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Vacuumed with a soft brush, then sprayed with Autoglym interior shampoo, left for a minute, scrubbed gently with a nailbrush and then rinsed off with hot water and quickly dried with a damp dishcloth. Definitely looks a bit cleaner, and no obvious damage!

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Some of the other boards have residual ?paint on them, which I might Dremel off with a wire brush. So much is original on this car that I want to keep these things in place where I can, just cleaned up a little!
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Disc
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sheaths are often snapped. In you pics you can see a rubber grommet - sheath goes in this grommet. In most cases you can put a piece of rubber hose with appropriate diameter (snug fit !) to join two halves. Sheath is made from material that can't be glued - been there, done that.
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mcdonaldneal
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disc wrote:
Sheaths are often snapped. In you pics you can see a rubber grommet - sheath goes in this grommet. In most cases you can put a piece of rubber hose with appropriate diameter (snug fit !) to join two halves. Sheath is made from material that can't be glued - been there, done that.


Thanks Disc. That is super helpful! Sadly, when the engine bay release sheath was redirected to the bumper area a section has been removed. The OG sheath is 6mm OD. I have some plastic sheath with a 6mm ID that could act as a joining piece, but it won't fit through the grommet, and the join would be obvious because of both size and colour differences. Also, you have made me concerned that they wouldn't glue together! (Maybe you just meant end-to-end?)

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I also have some 6mm OD tubing, which is a little too bright white (on the left in the pic above), but might make a less obvious repair, and would fit through the grommet. I could then sheath the join as you suggest. The end of my new tubing doesn't quite fit into the catch assembly, but could be whittled down a bit!

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On a brighter note, the OG tarboards have come up a treat with interior shampoo and a nail brush (and some isopropyl alcohol on the paint stains!)

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I feel very lucky that the original paint in the engine bay is in such good condition (after a cleanup of the oily muck that was in there!)
Makes it seem worthwhile to preserve the original details like the boards!

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mcdonaldneal
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've posted a question about preserving the lettering on the fan shroud...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7543359#7543359

But my other cosmetic plans for the engine compartment are still not definite, and I'm happy for comments!

The heat exchangers, exhaust muffler and inlet manifold have all been blasted, and I plan to paint them with POR15 high temp manifold gray paint. I realise it might not last, but I'm keen to extend the life of those components where possible. The paint does require curing at 150deg for 30 min after the two coats, not sure how I'll do that, as they won't fit in the oven... I'm thinking outdoor barbecue and a paintstripping heat gun...

I want to keep the original paint on the tins that are visible in the engine compartment, as they are in fairly good condition, but I am planning to use POR15 black paint on the undersurface of the tin pieces that are exposed to the elements under the car. I just hope I can correctly identify which bits are visible, and which aren't, as a freshly painted bit of tin will stick out like a sore thumb in the 'original' engine compartment!
For the same reason, I'll reuse the old tinware screws that I have on the visible parts, and use stainless steel ones underneath (with anti seize grease!)

I have a NOS black coil to fit, and a couple of voltage regulators of uncertain function to try out, and I am going to tidy the wiring and change any colours needed to get back towards stock. I also need to see if the HT cables will fit into the clips I have on the shroud.
All needs to get done and the engine back in before Spring! Shouldn't be a problem for a normal person, but I have a very slow work rate (for various reasons, some of them good, some not so much!)
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Rome
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Superb!

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After asking for advice about preserving the fan shroud stencilled lettering, I steered my own course. I cleaned with car shampoo, tested some non abrasive car polish on the lettering at the back, which was fine, then tested some car wax... Still no harm to the letters, so did the whole thing...

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I think it's a good compromise, and I'll be happy to put that back on the engine for a stock/ resto/ preservation look!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My drivers seat is away at an upholsterers. Not to be recovered, the vinyl is in pretty good condition. The padding though has collapsed, so he has taken it apart and is going to insert extra padding internally and place a sheet of strong hessian or similar to stop the horsehair pushing through the springs. Should make it a lot more comfortable on longer journeys!

The passenger seat isn't as bad, but I decided to take it to him anyway, and have them both done at the same time. As I was carrying it to the car, I noticed a very cool thing! The horsehair still has an ink date stamp on the bottom! 1969. Something great about the fact that it's still there after more than 45years. Razz

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mcdonaldneal
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. Today's job is to repaint the exhaust components. I've got POR 15 manifold grey high temperature paint, I've had the original heat exchangers and the NOS Ernst muffler blasted, as well as the inlet manifold, on which I've reamed out the carbon from the heat risers, and had the hole welded from where the clutch cable bored through the bend in the pipe! Embarassed

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My plan is to degrease, dry to bone dry, then brush paint in sections, unless I can find somewhere to hang them while I paint the layers? Then I'll have to find someone with a big oven to cure the heat resistant paint correctly!

First though, I think I should remove the lever assemblies from the HE's, to paint fully.

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And get the stuck Theo Dekker tailpipe out of the muffler!

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Hopefully a bit of penetrating oil should free it up?

As always, hints and advice to a novice are welcome! Hopefully I'll see them before I blunder past the problem Confused
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 2:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah! Problems so soon? To be expected!
First is that one of the heat exchangers has rusted through at the pipe that connects to the muffler box.

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Im guessing that I can take this to a local garage and have it welded up? I'll give it a go.

Next is that the damn tailpipe refuses to shift, and I want it out before I paint. I've tried oil, heat from a heat gun, and a mallet. No joy. Might ask the garage for advice/ muscle while I'm there!

I've given the flat mating surfaces a bit of a sand. I wasn't aiming for perfection, unless anyone thinks it's important to have a mirror- like finish on them??

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm...
Took the heat exchanger to the garage. He can weld a new piece of tubing where the HEx is rusted, to fit into the muffler.
Bad news about the tailpipe, he heated the tubing around it to red hot, but it still wouldn't budge. Could have clamped the tailpipe in a vice, but I decided to leave it as is, and paint around it.
I've degreased the three parts I'm left with (1x HEx is left at the garage), and I'm leaving them to dry completely before paint.
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mcdonaldneal
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a day at home today, as I need to be available for work, but I put the second coat of POR 15 manifold grey high temperature paint on the exhaust bits. It's thinner than normal POR 15 and does leave brush marks, but they apparently disappear during the high temp curing process you do after 24hrs min. Pretty happy with the result.

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Apologies for the poorly lit pictures! Hopefully I'll post up when the engine is back together!
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