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New project 1969 Fasty
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those look like they are gonna weld in custom but flush! Cool
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
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catbox
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great.
Keep it up.
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first came out OK. Some minor flaws became more apparent once I gave it a coat of primer but overall, I'm pleased. I coulda/shoulda flanged it but I was too impatient to wait for a flanging tool to be delivered.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


On to the 2nd vent. This one did not come off as neatly as the first one did so I'll have to do some corrective surgery to straighten it out.
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good!

I for one believe that the vents were faced forward to make the car run cooler.

You will be glad you did this in the end, even if the PO forced your hand. Wink
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you did a great job getting that fenders vents. Don’t worry about the minor flaw as it’ll get taken care of with some glaze when you get there. Keep working that other fender and it’ll come around too.
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

-finished off the second vent. Thank goodness I'm a really good grinder.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Started and finished another repair along the nose
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I ended up grinding down the leading cut edge a bit more so my repair piece would sit roughly flush. Since I don't have the means to bend nice curved edges like this, I have to get creative.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


-turned out pretty well, I think.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I believe my next steps will be to scrub out the exposed fender wells so they are nice and clean and have some tooth for whatever coating I choose to put in there. Yes, I'm going to try out some type of coating rather than straight paint in here. (and in the fenders themselves possibly)

I've been reviewing lots of products from truck bedliner to actual undercoating products to POR15 (which I have and seemed to go on rather thickly the last time I used it)

Are there any opinions on this?
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like your progress in tackling those areas. Your vents came out great! Keep at it. I'd recommend shinning a light from the inside of the apron to expose any pin holes that may have come up.

As for coatings, I was on the fence with what I was going to use. Primarily due to the amount of metal I replaced on the lower end of the car (footwell, rear wheel well area, rear apron area, rear corners, .etc). I didn't feel paint was enough. So I choose to go with Raptor liner. I used it on my pan rebuild and it looks great. I took it to the shell and you can see what I did to it on page 42 below. I also went with it on my fenders, inner doors( not the window frame area), inner hatch and underside of the hood. Check the next page as well. You're doing great. Keep at it man!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...;start=820
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DONGKG
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like your are gaining progress on the restoration! Cool one! And congrats on your Type 3!

DongKG
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

beetlejc wrote:
-finished off the second vent. Thank goodness I'm a really good grinder.

I believe my next steps will be to scrub out the exposed fender wells so they are nice and clean and have some tooth for whatever coating I choose to put in there. Yes, I'm going to try out some type of coating rather than straight paint in here. (and in the fenders themselves possibly)

I've been reviewing lots of products from truck bedliner to actual undercoating products to POR15 (which I have and seemed to go on rather thickly the last time I used it)

Are there any opinions on this?


I like using PPG's DP series epoxy primers for sealing things up. I've been using them since the 90's (in different colors), and can't complain about them. Plus, you can use them over just about anything (plastic, steel, aluminum, fiberglass, most body fillers, etc...). Very Happy Plus, you can top coat them with just about anything you can think of.

I really don't like POR 15, as the only thing I've had it actually work on like the can said was a utility trailer. Other than it, it never performed like I wanted it too. And with paint costing as much as it does these days, I can't afford to do a job twice. Rolling Eyes

Now, I have to agree, you're doing a great job on it, and you're really gaining on it. Cool Being a good grinder helps. Laughing
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71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use body filler where necessary to cherry it out for paint. POR15 bubbled after 6 months on the pans we wire wheeled & painted with it! Rolling Eyes I keep reading that MasterSeries silver & black is good/better for chassis & inner fenders.
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the encouragement, guys. This, unfortunately, isn't slated to be a complete rebuild, so I'm moderating my efforts somewhat based on $$$ and time while still trying to "do it right" and minimize shortcuts. I'm sure you all get it.

That being said, once I decide on how to handle my fender wells, I WILL be taking the body off the pan for work on both heater channels and rockers. (I have a certain order-of-events in mind that should work) The interior was/is in good shape, so I'm trying to preserve that as well as I can.

Mont3 - I think you did a kick-ass job with the Raptor liner. That would be the ideal application for me throughout if I strip the car down that far. I also like the car stand you have your squareback on. I've got to build one up here pretty soon and could model yours somewhat.

Bobnotch - My intent is to repaint close to the original cobalt blue after all this rust repair. -probably go back to the original steel wheels. -kindve an old "rally" look, I suppose. Correct me if I'm wrong, because I'm investing in a medium compressor and LVLP guns (I wont have the capacity for an HVLP, I believe) to paint this thing, epoxy comes first, then polyurethane, then top-coat (single stage).
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

beetlejc wrote:
Thanks for all the encouragement, guys.

Bobnotch - My intent is to repaint close to the original cobalt blue after all this rust repair. -probably go back to the original steel wheels. -kindve an old "rally" look, I suppose. Correct me if I'm wrong, because I'm investing in a medium compressor and LVLP guns (I wont have the capacity for an HVLP, I believe) to paint this thing, epoxy comes first, then polyurethane, then top-coat (single stage).


Close. Bare metal, epoxy primer, then a "high build" primer, then a seal coat (I use reduced epoxy), then top coat (color). Unless your polyurethane is a "high build", then you've got it right. I only say that, as all "high build" primers are not created equal.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, now some real work can begin!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I've ordered a replacement heater channel for the right side and rockers for both sides. I see some additional fabrication required here and there but nothing major.
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I have a few more updates to post. -starting with a support bar I've welded/bolted in place on the passenger side.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This will be the side that gets the whole heater channel replaced and a new rocker. (cip1)

The drivers side was bad but not as completely rusted through front-to-back like the passenger side was.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I hope to be able to rebuild this area. There's a curved bit that directs airflow internally that I'd like to emulate but was completely gone. I think MonT3 had some pics here.

While I had the area open, I was able to investigate the full length of the channel to ensure there was no more rust. I tried out this Eastwood product that seems to apply well into nasty areas like this.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I used it everywhere that tube would reach. Note the squirt-throughs at the trim holes. I need moar!

The start of drivers side repairs at the rear fender well. Still some grinding to do.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

A little intimidating posting my work next to artists like Clatter and his "divorcemobile". Wink
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried the internal frame coating inside a clear bottle before using it.
It coats very well with the supplied nozzle.

divorcemobile Laughing
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
Using Phosphoric Acid & MasterSeries/POR15 inside the fenders etc before you weld them closed? Better treat/paint everything you can reach.

Mike Fisher: I went ahead and found a product specifically listed as Phosphoric Acid. Eastwood calls theirs "Fast Etch" and I have to admit I prefer it over the other products I've been using. -cleans up that surface rust and gets into areas that I'm just not interested in breaking apart. Good call, sir!
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been plugging away on the heater channels and rockers for a bit now.
Here's a bit I finished on the drivers side behind the door. I've managed to capture the curve of the lower portion pretty well.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I used a bit of salvaged heater tube from the removed passenger heater channel to tack in the 7 inches or so of rusted away tube on the drivers side.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I used the old bent portion of the tube to fabricate that inner shielding portion. Not perfect by a long shot and I wont be making that curved deflector bit but it wont matter much. It was at this point that I realized that the functionality of the side foot vent controls on both sides of the car are utterly destroyed. I wont try rebuilding it/them. What this'll mean is that when I open the flap from the heater channels, I'll get both foot and windshield heat all the time. Not a big deal for those times I need heat here in Fla.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Finally, the outer rocker goes into place. This was really hard to measure with any accuracy given the shape of the thing. I was a few millimeters wide on a couple of the gaps so that'll be fun to close up. Fortunately, it turned out to be very straight, though. Altogether, it should have a good solid finish when completed.
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, here's the results of the rocker panel work. -not too shabby. I realized that the repair I did to the drivers door above it needs a little rework.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I moved onto the inside of this part now. I've committed myself to fabbing up this heater channel. "How hard can it be?" I said to myself... It was kind've a bear bending and hammering this all out without a proper brake.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is about where it'll go. I'm not sure how this piece mates to the leading curved portion between here and the pedal assembly. The passenger side is also completely gone so I have no comparison.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is shows the transition from straight to curved.
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is excellent, sir! I really need to quit buying my projects on the East coast.
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