Building a better Vanagon automatic transaxle

Rocky Mountain Westy · Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 7:10 pm Post subject:

I will also be watching closely on this thread. I didn't read it all but I would find someone with a Bostig and a 3.27 r and p before using it. I am not sure a Bostig has the right power curve for this tranny. Might be valuable research before taking the plunge. I would say my 2.5L subaru at 165hp is close to the line. I do a lot of high elevation mountain driving though.
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The Splitzgauer build (when I have time to work on it and update the thread)

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=497133

kourt · Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 7:36 pm Post subject:

I'm glad you mention this (regarding the suitability of a Bostig and 3.27 R&P), as it is a concern for me as well.

Regardless, I will probably buy from RMW, but feel free to PM me your thoughts on that... or post them here, no worries.

kourt

ThankYouJerry · Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 8:39 pm Post subject:

My guess is the 3.73 is probably the proper auto R&P for a Subie 2.2.
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1990 Multivan - "Ohana"
1.8T, Auto w/3.27 R&P + Peloquin TBD

Tristar Eric · Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 11:04 pm Post subject:

I'm in line to see how this all goes down as well. I've got the tall R&P waiting to go in, but I'd like to add the limited slip also. Running a 2.5 subie DOHC (it's in my dads 88 ). He likes to drive fast Wink

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geo_tonz · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 1:12 am Post subject:

Abscate · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 4:46 am Post subject:

djkeev · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:25 am Post subject:

madspaniard · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 8:01 am Post subject:

AtlasShrugged · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:22 am Post subject:

Back in the early 80's there was an occasional failure of the back to back seals with Audi and VW..not a horrible reputation.

The back to back seals are in the differential..not the automatic. You remove the automatic to get to the seals.

VW/Audi came out with some improved seals which is the replacement parts available now.

Correctly installed the new seals you buy are not a problem.

Abscate · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:52 am Post subject:

It was a while back but its all a blur when you are old and crusty like me.

Edited my post to try to stop internet urban legend propagation phenomenon.
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geo_tonz · Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 8:36 pm Post subject:

dart330 · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 6:46 am Post subject:

I got busy last week at work and didn't get in touch with them yet. Going to their website and using the application search, it only lists the D4 ATF for the entire automatic transaxle. I will shoot them an email to verify this application.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

dart330 · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 11:31 am Post subject:

ThankYouJerry · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 8:44 pm Post subject:

FWIW... This is the reply I received from GTA regarding fluids and intervals:

"We recommend any FULL SYNTHETIC A.T.F.

We use BG Ultra Guard – Full synthetic oil in the Diff.

1st service at 15,000 miles and then every 30,000 there after."
_________________
1990 Multivan - "Ohana"
1.8T, Auto w/3.27 R&P + Peloquin TBD

kourt · Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 4:31 pm Post subject:

Automatic Transmission Fluid - Filtering, Cooling, Measuring Temperature

I completed this part of the project today. Photos:

These first three photos feature the Derale fan, mounted essentially under the floor near the sliding door. There's just enough room to mount it there with the lines making a 90 degree bend to the aft end of the van. There's a Propex mounted farther aft of this cooler. The last of these three photos shows the fan shroud's profile below the rocker panel--not a significant amount of exposure.

Here's the Derale filter with temperature sender. The is the first stop for the ATF as it is pumped out of the transmission. The filter is mounted immediately to the left of the transmission, on a small vertical depression in the sheet metal bulkhead just forward of the transmission. The filter is basically very near the 2nd gear brake band cover on the transmission, but with plenty of room to service the filter.

The temperature sender on the filter mount sends the ATF temperature to this VDO gauge. I'm very fond of the native design of the Vanagon dash, so I preferred to mount this less-significant gauge on the heater shroud, which I could replace with another if I decided I wanted to rethink the gauge location. I removed my rear bench under-seat heater last year so I was able to use the remaining wiring for that heater to support this gauge. I used the yellow wire to go from the sender to the harness in the dashboard, and that was simply cut and spliced to the gauge. The old heater switch also has dimmed dash lighting power, ground, and switched/fused DC 12V for the gauge, so all those wires were transferred to the gauge. Works great!

Here's an example of some of the AN-6 hose I made for this project. You can also see the relationship between the filter and the transmission. The hose is a rubber hose with braided stainless jacket. I took pains to use the Koul Tools products to make the AN hoses, and I would recommend that step to anyone. I made my cuts with a miter saw using a 12" cutoff blade, and blew out the hoses with compressed after every cut and prior to installation. Aviation snips also made the task of cleaning up the frayed ends much easier. AN hoses require patience to manufacture, but these are bomb proof. They can be disassembled and rebuilt, and the whole system allows for substitution of hoses in the field for easy shunting of ATF if an emergency occurs. These hoses are secured every 18 inches or so with clamps. All hardware is stainless.

The fan is driven by a thermostatically controlled relay. The relay draws power from the positive post in the wiring box in the northwest corner of the engine bay. Note that I have a second relay for the engine oil fan, as I am running a similar Derale engine oil cooler for my Bostig, but with AN-10 fittings.

Here's the fan relay thermostat sender (in the blue fitting) and the fluid control thermostat from the GoWesty cooler. The fluid stat is a Derale product as well.

No leaks on the first startup!

I hope you all find this helpful. Next project: Audi turbo internals.

kourt

HoustonPhotog · Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 11:27 am Post subject:

HoustonPhotog · Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 5:46 am Post subject:

kourt · Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 6:46 am Post subject:

Let me know if you need help. Building hoses required a good chop saw with cutoff wheel for accurate cuts, the Koul Tools AN helper tools, some aviation snips to dress the ends, compressed air to blow out the debris of hose cutting, etc. I have modified my Koul Tools helpers to accept the slightly larger Summit fittings.

I just finished this same project (oil cooler) for my Bostig engine as well--but with AN-10 hose and fittings. It is quite stout.

kourt

HoustonPhotog · Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 6:51 am Post subject:

falkortheluckwagon · Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 8:09 am Post subject:

This is a great thread and has been super informative for me. I had my auto trans rebuilt by GTA and got the turbo upgrade. I havent been too happy with it but that's a different story.

Recently I installed a trans temp gauge and a diff temp gauge to monitor those components as the last trans I had got cooked pretty good because I was running way too hot (even with a cooler under the van), and I dont want to pay GTA for another tranny anytime soon.

I have a Small Car cooler that was positioned in about the place as was shown above by Kourt. I also attached a thermostatic fan to the cooler to help with the temp at Ken from GTAs suggestion. That hadn't worked for me at all. After installing the temp gauge I was seeing temperatures for the trans as high as 240 (and the diff is around the same often hotter). GTA told me that running above 210 is pushing it so 250 is definitely bad. Apparently Ive been driving with these temps since getting the rebuilt trans way back in January.

Anyhow, I moved the trans cooler up in front of the radiator and went on a 45min drive from north Seattle to Tacoma and back. The temp in the trans never got above 180 which is 40deg cooler than it has been previously on that same drive, but the diff was around 210.

I say all of that to ask what temperature is too hot for the diff? When should I pull over and let it cool off? As far as I know, there isn't a bolt up quick and easy way to add a cooler to a diff so any suggestions on max temperature would be super helpful. Should the diff temp even be of concern to me? Have any of you attached a temp gauge to the diff? If not, why not? Kourt, is that something you will be monitoring on this new trans of yours?


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Building a better Vanagon automatic transaxle
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