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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:21 am Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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I'm about 80% done with my engine bay lighting install..
Link
I used a V-channel LED diffuser strip from Amazon and some cheap warm white LED strip from ebay china.. I had some small gauge Teflon wire on hand so I soldered the strip up with it. The 20% I have left is fabbing and mounting something for the switch to sit in.. I've got a single contact door/dome light switch from a Beetle. Trying to keep everything looking stock, or hidden away if it's obviously an add- on _________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
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kerian159 Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2008 Posts: 344 Location: Pensacola, FL
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Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 11:06 am Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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could you post links to the Lighting LED parts you purchased off the interwebs? _________________ 1976 Type II Westy P22
"Growing older, but not up!" |
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 6:27 am Post subject: Fuel leak! |
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I have an ugly confession to make: until yesterday morning, I have been running an unclamped plastic fuel filter in my engine bay. I found the line dripping fuel on top of the #3 cylinder tin when I pulled in to work yesterday, hissing on the hot metal. The fuel filter got hot and pliable, and the end of the tank line started cracking and pulling away from the nipple.
=+=+=+=+=
I have always intended to run 304 stainless 1/4" tubing from the tank/pump/carburetor, but as the saying goes "the best is often the enemy of the good," and I put it off so I could collect all the parts I needed to run a professional installation. My hang up was trying to find an appropriate micron rated metal filter to run inline under the tank, to eliminate all rubber hose, period.
So yesterday afternoon, in the parking lot with no shade and 95 degree temps, I bent, flared, and installed half of my hard line - something I could have already done in my carport at home on my own time.
I'm still working on it but I ended up making the hard line pictured below, to be finished with Aeroquip teflon SS braid hose where the rubber hose is. The forward side of the bulkhead fitting has about a foot of steel tubing running to a clamped Wolfsburg West rubber hose. I'll post more photos of the completed installation.. Although I'd planned to install this all with the engine out, I have no choice but to do it ASAP.
_________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 7:25 am Post subject: DPD A/C unit |
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On another topic, I'm still working towards getting my DPD overhead air conditioner together. Here are a handful of photos of the progress:
HOUSING REPAIR
Typical crack area - the rusty stains were underneath a steel reinforcing bracket, and the plastic housing is riveted to the bracket with pop rivets.
Don't use fiberglass resin to repair plastic, you are all but guaranteed to have adhesion issues and failure down the road as the plastic flexes. You want to use a repair adhesive designed for plastics.
MECHANICALS
Original thermostat with a part number that leads to dead ends (Ranco p/n A10-6348-712) I tested the unit with dry ice and a multimeter.. although I don't know what temps it's cycling at, it seems to be working.
There are two fan motors, each with two squirrel cage blowers. They WORK to move air, and draw about 9 to 10 amps on full. The speed resistors drop the voltage across an open-air wire resistance element, so I think the circuit will constantly draw at least 9 amps no matter what speed it's set to (in the on position of course).
The evaporator is in good condition.. I will replace the expansion vale with a new part and wrap with the nasty cork tape. Flushed the evaporater with solvent until it ran clear, then purged with nitrogen and capped it off until I'm ready to hook everything up in the bus.
PRETTIES
A bottle of muriatic acid spilled in the shed where I kept the A/C and all the fumes started to rust any metal in the area. So I pulled the brackets and long hanger off, sandblasted them, then shot with PPG epoxy follwed by a coat of PPG single stage white.
The plastic housings were in decent shape; plastic was intact and not brittle. But it was showing its age and UV exposure, so I went ahead and sprayed it as well. The housings are sprayed with a few very light coats of Summit Racing gray epoxy primer, followed by two light coats of PPG gloss white. The PPG is a polyurethane single stage paint and should hold up to the plastic flexing without any adhesion issues.. I have done a lot of research on paint and materials but nothing is a substitute for hands on painting. I'm pretty confident I won't have any issues down the road with this paint.
My game plan is subject to change.. so far I'm looking at getting two 14"x25x.875" condensors for a total of 612 cubic inches, with a 14" shrouded fan on each unit. The compressor will be a Sanden SD508 or similar, moving 8.39 CID.. I may run an SD709, which moves 9.36 CID; just depends on what other information I get on them.
The compressor will mount up to a custom Sanden-to-York adapter bracket I will make, which in turn will be bolted to a stock OG York-style bracket. I'll be sure to post a good handful of photos of the mounts - they were the biggest hangup on getting the project off the ground, since I really had no idea where or how to mount a compressor.
There are two types of refrigerant hose I'm considering.. Aeroquip E-Z Clip or standard barrier hose with swaged fittings. Either route won't be inexpensive; it just comes down to what will work better. If I end up using barrier hose.. I'll probably buy the swaging kit and do it all by hand myself.
Here are some helpful links:
http://nostalgicac.com/compressors.html
http://www.vintageair.com/
http://www.gilmore-enterprises.net/
http://iceautoair.com/index-2.html
http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Hydraulics/Fittings/PCT_259178
https://coldhose.com/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ADJUSTABLE-YORK-TO-SAN...mp;vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-YORK-TO-SANDEN-AC-COMP...mp;vxp=mtr _________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
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69BahamaYellow Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2011 Posts: 535 Location: Talbott, TN
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 10:08 am Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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Hello Scrivyscriv,
Just saw your post. Love this story! Trust me on this, you want a working AC system, if you expect your wife and kids to ride in your bus through the summers. Very nice work on the DPD so far (and the rest of your bus for that matter). Sounds like your design so far has plenty of condensing capacity for your AC system. Be sure those 14” condensers will fit where you want them too. If you’re fitting them on either side of the center heater tube, under the bus, a 10” is about as tall as you can go, but you can easily go out to 30”+ length to keep the capacity. If ground clearance is no concern, you can easily mount those condensers across the bottom of the heater tube with fans on top and put some kind of louvered cover on bottom for protection like the DPD factory did. The only other recommendation I’d make is go with a bigger compressor. You need all you can get to cool the volume of a bus. My compressor is 170cc = 10.4ci, and it doesn’t take much power at all off the engine and has no issues with icing. Of course my engine is a 2.0 type 4 and I see you’re running a type 1, so depending on what improvements you’ve done to your engine, you may feel the AC compressor more than I do. I really liked those Aeroquip EZ clip fittings as well, but I ended up using standard Swaged on fittings, only because I’ve got more experience with them. If you go with the Swaged on fittings, I don’t advise using the hand operated swaging tools, as I’ve had experience with these creating leaks at the crimp in the past; the barrier hose is just too tough vs non barrier. Have an AC shop use their heavy duty air operated type crimper. There’s a noticeable difference in the quality of the crimp. If you use any angled fittings on both ends of a hose, mark their orientation on the hose, since that hose won’t allow for any torsional flexing, if they’re crimped wrong.
Now if you really wanted to get fancy, use a couple of solenoid valves in the refrigerant line to plumb in an electric compressor in parallel to your Sanden; that way, you could bypass it and run your AC off campground power when you’re parked. Wire your fans to run off either your batter or an AC to DC inverter. If I had a camper, I’d totally do that with mine, since the AC system is reasonably quiet. Just clean out those old evaporator fan’s well, so dirt doesn’t throw them out of balance (that makes both noise and vibration; not good when you’re trying to sleep) |
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:10 pm Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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69BahamaYellow wrote: |
My compressor is 170cc = 10.4ci, and it doesn’t take much power at all off the engine and has no issues with icing. |
I'm planning to mount up my condensers on the left and right sides of the bus outboard of the heater pipe. A rep at Vintage Air and also at Nostalgic Air both told me I'd be fine with a mostly-horizontal condenser as long as the exit was lower than the entrance.. I'm taking that with a grain of salt, so my plan is to mount the condensers with as much slope as I can give 'em.
Sanden has a ton of great info available for their compressors.. http://www.sanden.com/productlibrary/manuals/sd_service_guide_rev_2.pdf is a gold mine. Their 508 compressor pumps 8.4CI, and the 709 pumps 9.5CI. My concern is putting too big of a compressor... Yes the DPD evaporator is HUGE... but I don't know enough about A/C to really know what the most efficient compressor size should be. Everything I've read about displacement so far says less is more.. I'm gonna give the guys at VA a call this week and see what they say about it. _________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
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69BahamaYellow Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2011 Posts: 535 Location: Talbott, TN
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Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 12:55 pm Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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Sounds like a good plan. There are so many variables to consider here. What works for me and my type 4 engine setup may be too much for a type 1 engine, where you've got even less power and engine cooling capacity to push around the same weight and wind resistance. |
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 8:03 pm Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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Unfortunately I saw some pretty serious rust under the cargo floor when I was under the bus checking for condenser clearance.. Went ahead and took the interior out today to assess the damage and get a price list going.
So far I'm up to about a grand in metal.
Or I could just wire wheel it and slap some POR15 and fiberglass.... _________________ Robert in Memphis
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Pinetops Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2007 Posts: 2987
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 8:11 pm Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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It doesn't look that bad from here. Grind all the rust down until it is shiny or at least until red dust doesn't come off of it. Then treat it with some ospho or other phosphoric acid type product.
Then clean it and spray it with some epoxy primer or high-zinc primer or at least some rustoleum rusty metal primer. Get a section of flooring to make some patches and fix (weld in sections) the holes sooner or later.
Unless the hole is actually going to affect anything, fiberglass is just something that costs money and has to be removed when you do it with metal.
I'm not saying I haven't used it before though. _________________ "A rolling bus gathers no rust." |
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 5:38 am Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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Pinetops wrote: |
It doesn't look that bad... |
Sarcasm doesn't translate well on the Internet, I was joking about laying down fiberglass and POR15
The rust isn't horrible.. But it's bad enough that patching it would be a waste of time and money. It really needs a whole new cargo floor, rocker to rocker. I hope the VW floor pans are still available, Bus Depot is showing them at $250 per side. _________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 7:42 pm Post subject: Compressor bracket |
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Got my compressor bracket in yesterday, courtesy the Samba classifieds. Washed it in muriatic acid to prep for a sandblast and either powder or epoxy. Lot of work ahead! This is the first step.
(Highly recommend those little dinky red Harbor Freight magnets, by the way) _________________ Robert in Memphis
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Abscate Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 22568 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 3:44 am Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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Nice looking work a Robert
You'll get better spark with that coil label upside down though,.. _________________ .ssS! |
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2016 5:00 pm Post subject: Floor plywood |
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My bus looked like a messy homeless family lived in it since I had all of my interior parts out or unbolted and loose. It will take a few more paychecks to get my paint and rust repairs together for the floor.
The cargo floor has some brownish-black coating brushed on, and when I started working on it with MEK and a rag, the crud came up first, then the Kombi tan paint started to come up too.. factory L90D pastel white underneath!
The metal is still in bad enough shape in some places that I'll need to replace the floor halves. I'm putting the interior back together for now, with new plywood floor, until I've got my paint and some time to treat and sandblast the floor.. Just buying time to get my pennies saved up for the metal.
I don't like the way my rear seat belt was bolted in with a huge fender washer against the floor sheet metal. So we are going back together with a pair of new lap belts bolted into more or less the factory VW belt anchors in the back.. also Rivi spent much less attention on brackets and mounting than Westy did so I'm going to be working on how everything bolts in.
For example the passenger side cabinet/closet is screwed into the C pillar with sheet metal screws.. forget that, I squeezed in a pair of 8/32 steel rivnuts.
I'm not actually restoring this vehicle.. this is going to be a continual repair and refurbish process with a few small, mostly invisible, upgrades and adjustments.
Like A/C. _________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 2:00 pm Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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Wired in two 20amp PWM motor controllers to take the amp load off my wiring and eliminate the old resistors.. the overhead unit is done with paint, and I'm almost ready to hang it up. Got the thermal expansion valve in and wound up with the cork tape and new green O-ring. Next paycheck I'm going to try to get some bulk hose and two fittings, get the A/C shop nearby to swage em on, and go ahead and hang everything up for keeps.
_________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 6:54 am Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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As one project gets attention, other needs go un-fed. I'm not sure how much more life I'll be able to squeeze out of this original seat cover!
_________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2918 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 10:38 am Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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1) Got an eberspacher BN4 (with wrong ducting and bracket for my year), tweaked and set it all, halfway installed.
Since the engine is out for the fan shroud swap and compressor mount work, I took the liberty of liberating the battery tray and side corner rust:
Lots, and lots, and lots of work to do. Have to replace center heat tube, hang the condenser and plumb it, finish the compressor bracket mounting, make a bracket and hang the BN4, bend and flare some stainless 1/4" fuel line, finish the battery tray and corner, and take all my a/c hoses to the shop for crimps.
a project vehicle is an ambitious undertaking for a working dad. i have blown up every single deadline I set for this year's projects. _________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
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Pinetops Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2007 Posts: 2987
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Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 11:19 am Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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Nice work. That's a great model/year bus. I wouldn't feel bad taking as long as it takes and doing it right as you seem to be doing. Enjoy the process. _________________ "A rolling bus gathers no rust." |
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cmonSTART Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2014 Posts: 1915 Location: NH
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Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 11:21 am Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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scrivyscriv wrote: |
a project vehicle is an ambitious undertaking for a working dad. i have blown up every single deadline I set for this year's projects. |
I know exactly what you mean there - same boat! Looking great though, I especially love the engine bay lighting! _________________ '78 Bus 2.0FI
de K1IGS |
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kooper271 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2016 Posts: 337 Location: Ohio
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Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 12:03 pm Post subject: Re: Introducing my 1971 Riviera |
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Reading through your thread, I saw you mention Mutemath. My girlfriend and I saw them live at Lollapalooza this July and they were great! |
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