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pyrOman
Fire Master
Joined: July 21, 2003
Posts: 12408
Location: Over 2002 posts deleted!
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 Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 8:35 am Post subject: |
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| KevinAlbrecht wrote: |
| pyrOman wrote: |
Took quite some wiggling to get it in there, having to fit through 2 holes at once, also without much room from underneath, but I managed. {Pay no mind to the previously hacked hole for the stainless steel braided teflon oil line next to the valve.  }
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Hey pyro,
Did you leave the shutoff pass-through with the rough hole like that? I would do something to cushion the steel line even though it is secured via the switch.. |
The valve is a "bulkhead" mount type, notice the nut and flat washer securing it in place. It just does not wiggle at all. Plus it only has about 3 to 4 inches of steel tubing at all three ends (in, out, and drain). Though the nastily hacked hole for the SS braided oil line doesn't have a grommet, what you see is a piece of hose wrapped around it. 
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otis_bartleh
Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2009
Posts: 1106
Location: Burlington, WA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 11:26 am Post subject: |
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Very cool idea... Might have to use that one... Have a link to that valve by chance?
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-Adam
'59 Mango Bus - getting buried in it
'69 Bug - sold and highly missed, so it stays in the sig |
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pyrOman
Fire Master
Joined: July 21, 2003
Posts: 12408
Location: Over 2002 posts deleted!
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| Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 3:50 pm Post subject: |
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Sure don't! But McMaster-Carr has just about anything you could image as far as hardware is concerned. 
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otis_bartleh
Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2009
Posts: 1106
Location: Burlington, WA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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| pyrOman wrote: |
| Sure don't! But McMaster-Carr has just about anything you could image as far as hardware is concerned. |
Right on, thanks man. I'm still eventually going to rebuild my fuel tap, but might get around to adding your setup first.
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'59 Mango Bus - getting buried in it
'69 Bug - sold and highly missed, so it stays in the sig |
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Pinetops
Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2007
Posts: 2987
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| Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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Here's what I did. This piece shown is all metal line with braided rubber line around it in places for protection. I have a little extra rubber wrapped around where it goes through the tank shelf.
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j.pickens
Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2002
Posts: 9789
Location: Exit 7, New Jersey
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| Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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| otis_bartleh wrote: |
Very cool idea... Might have to use that one... Have a link to that valve by chance? |
Looks like a "Whitey" 1/4" valve sold by your local Swagelok distributor.
The Swagelok brand fittings use a tapered female end with a two piece cinching ferrule and threaded hex nut to make an extremely reliable and leak tight seal.
http://www.swagelok.com/
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| BeaterBarndoor wrote: |
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pyrOman
Fire Master
Joined: July 21, 2003
Posts: 12408
Location: Over 2002 posts deleted!
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| Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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Here's a different view of it as well as the underside.
It "feeds" off the bottom port. I still need to install a "drain line" out of the capped port which will come in handy just in case I need to drain the tank for some ridiculous reason. Makes for a way less messy as well as safe process! 
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Big Bill
Samba Member
Joined: June 21, 2005
Posts: 1782
Location: Santa Rosa, Ca
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| Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 6:41 am Post subject: |
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| I have been following this thread since it started alot of great info. So have we decided which fuel line is the one to use?? Is the Flennor line best ( I dont like the large OD of it myself), I see in Pyros photos he is using Gates line, and in many others the stock type "German" braided line. I like j.pickens setup, with one piece of fuel line from the tap, thru the tank shelf to the fuel pump. I usually change my fuel lines before the Kelley Park show every year, it is fast approaching so I have got it get this done. Thanks for any feedback on the fuel line itself. |
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pyrOman
Fire Master
Joined: July 21, 2003
Posts: 12408
Location: Over 2002 posts deleted!
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| Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 8:16 am Post subject: |
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I now realize that the original question was about "which" flex line but the thread has evolved into "routing" and such. 
Well, I guess there's a bit I can say now about that! In keeping with my idea of using mostly hard steel lines for most of it and using short soft/flex lines just for connecting them, I actually do prefer the rubber ones over the braided ones. Mostly because any signs of deterioration are more visible (cracks and such) than under the braid.
Just recently, I had a fairly new braided line between the pump and the carbs which was about 18" long. So a few days ago I made a hard steel line to replace that and used a couple of short pieces of the braided to connect it. Now, I drove the bus for a while but has been sitting in the Garaj Mahal for a couple of days. I had to move it yesterday and as soon as I fired it up I smelled some gas! Looked in there and the short braided line connecting to the left carb was leaking. Checked the clamps and they were tight! The leak was going right through the line! 
So basically, I rather have the safer non-stock looking line than a stock looking one which may cause a catastrophy at any time.
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Daniel G
Crazy Amish Guy
Joined: April 23, 2004
Posts: 828
Location: Central Alabama Amish Country
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