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Westy Steve
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Joined: February 25, 2006
Posts: 1095
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 Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 8:22 pm Post subject: Will swapping out my tranny raise my bug? |
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Probably a stupid question, but I have a lowered bug (back and front). If I buy a new transmission will it raise up the back?
Also, I've never swapped out axle tubes before, but if I remove the transmission and transaxles from the car, can I just unbolt the transaxles and put them on my new transmission, or are they under tension so they have to be decompressed first?
Hope my questions make sense.
Steve
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Have nice 914, want nice Bug |
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grandpa pete
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Joined: July 06, 2008
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Location: St. Petersburg, FL
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clarkster75
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Joined: September 25, 2006
Posts: 161
Location: Lots of good clean livin' Utah
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| Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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The Bentley manual will definitely help. I don't think you can get just the transmission out and leave the axles in place.
The hard part is either having the bearing puller tool or having enough muscle to push/slide the rear bearing off of the axle so you can get the axle tubes off. Once you've done that you should be good.
Be prepared for oil even after you've drained it, have some towels/cardboard down.
don't forget to delink under the back seat (shifter from nose cone).
Have fun!! |
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Aussiebug
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Joined: June 03, 2002
Posts: 2162
Location: Adelaide Australia
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| Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 11:28 pm Post subject: Re: Will swapping out my tranny raise my bug? |
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| Westy Steve wrote: |
| Probably a stupid question, but I have a lowered bug (back and front). If I buy a new transmission will it raise up the back? |
Just to make it completely clear...
No - the ride height is not set by the gearbox, it's set by the torsion bars inside the torsion bar tube, working on the spring plates and the brake hub assembies.
| Quote: |
Also, I've never swapped out axle tubes before, but if I remove the transmission and transaxles from the car, can I just unbolt the transaxles and put them on my new transmission, or are they under tension so they have to be decompressed first? |
"Transaxle" is the correct name for the bug gearbox, since it's a combined gearbox and differential. I think you mean "axle tubes" which contain the drive axles.
To remove the gearbox/transaxle, The spring plates and torsion bars do not need to be removed - the axle tubes and brake hub assemblies can be removed from the spring plates and get removed from the car whilst still attached to the gearbox.
Process.
1. Disconnect battery ground strap.
2. Remove rear wheels, and brake drums (loosen the 36mm axle nuts before you lift the car).
3. Remove engine.
4. Disconnect rear flexible brake hoses.
5. Detach hand brake cables at brake lever. Remove cables from the guide tubes (out of the rear brake assemblies).
6. Loosen axle boot clamps.
7. Remove lower shock absorber mounting bolts.
8. Mark the spring plate and axle shaft so you can reset them to the same wheel alignment - a chisel mark across the joint works well.
9. Remove the bolts holding the brake hub assembly to the spring plates.
10. Disconnect clutch cable from the wing nut end, and release the bowden tube and clutch cable from it's bracket.
11. Disconnect the two leads on the starter motor.
12. Remove the gear shifter coupling under the back seat.
13. Remove the nose cone mounting nuts (one should have the battery ground strap attached).
14. Put a trolley jack under the tranny.
14. Remove the two bolts at the end of the transmission yoke (27mm wrench needed).
15. Roll the tranny and axle tubes rearwards away from the car - you need to support the axle tubes so they do not drop on the floor and damage anything.
You then disconnect the drive axles from the gearbox and mount them to the new gearbox, before reversing the above procedure.
As noted by Grandpa Pete - when fitting new boots, if they are the spilt type, DON'T put the seam at the top - it should be set fore or aft so the seams does not flex too much - they last longer than way - I prefer 9 O'Clock rather than 10 O'clock myself - minimum stress on the seam that way.
Also replace the engine supports on the yoke under the gearbox whilst you are at it. Cheap enough and if they crack in use, you then have to drop the engine again to replace them later.
You can drain the gearbox oil before you start if you wish (probably not necessary if you are replacing the gearbox), but be aware that you will get some oil spill when you remove the axle tubes from the gearbox. A new gearbox takes 3 litres for a fill - after that, a normal gearbox oil change is 2.5 litres, filled until it drips out the filler (with the car level).
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Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.vw-resource.com |
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Westy Steve
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Joined: February 25, 2006
Posts: 1095
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| Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks guys....that was the answer I was looking for.
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drscope
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 15273
Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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| Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 9:35 am Post subject: |
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Not trying to be nasty here but if you are asking these questions you don't know enough yet to do this job! And thats OK, because we all have to start with no knowledge of these things and learn as we go. And by asking, you are learning.
But you need to learn a little more before you jump in or else you are going to get yourself into trouble.
Before you do anything, get this!
Read it! It will help you to understand and visualize exactly what you are dealing with and how it all works.
The Bentley is a great tool once you have a basic understanding, but Muier's Idiot book can help you get that basic understanding a lot faster!
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grandpa pete
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Joined: July 06, 2008
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Location: St. Petersburg, FL
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fluxcap
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Joined: February 07, 2006
Posts: 1969
Location: Newnan GA
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| Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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| grandpa pete wrote: |
get a bently and follow simple directions .
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The bentley is great for showing the order of procedures, exploded diagrams, torque specs, and things like that. But in all honesty, a lot of the directions in it were only simple for the workshop workers who had all the VW specialty tools made specifically for those procedures.
In regards to removing the axle tubes, the first step in the bently says "....and pull off rear wheel ball bearing..." as if that bearing is just going to come off easily by hand or something. I've never had a rear wheel bearing come off very easily. This is where the idiot book comes in handy as that book was written for people who are working in their garage without the fancy tools the factory had.
Also in regards to rear axles, when putting the tubes back on, the bently just states there should be maximum .2mm endplay, but says zilch about how that would be measured. Which is why most people use the "add/remove paper shims until the axle tube has a slight drag and drops slowly" method.
I've got the bentley and idiot book and keep both in the car. But when at home, and working on something I'm not sure about, I usually just rely on searching the posts here as this site is full of real world experience and great pics of just about any job imaginable on these old cars.
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Eric - 1966 camper bus
"It's like, how much more black could this be, and the answer is none.......none more black." |
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