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Vonfyren
Samba Member
Joined: September 25, 2013
Posts: 1
Location: Costa Mesa, California
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 Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 3:13 pm Post subject: Soundproofing |
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I have a 77 day camper and was wondering if I could get any advice on the best way to get rid of the drumming/tin can sound when driving at higher speeds. I still want to be able to hear my engine but would like to be able to hold a conversation on the freeway. I already put some soundproofing (from RAAMaudio) in the grooves on the floor in the back and on top of the engine compartment.
What other places would benefit from soundproofing and is there a better product that isn't too expensive? I'm 19 and this is my first car so I'm still trying to figure everything out.
Thanks!
Nik |
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chabanais
Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2002
Posts: 4866
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| Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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Behind the door panels is where I put mine.
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"I spud therefore I yam." |
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Brian
Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8334
Location: Oceanside
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dillon70
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2008
Posts: 234
Location: Ventura, Ca.
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| Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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Just finished my last panel today.
Sound proofing and then insulation, followed by Birch panel.
Home made and proud. The rear door sounds like a new car when it closes.
_________________
2001 ZO6 (450+hp)
1985 930 Turbo (400+hp)
1970 Z28 (360+hp)
1979 911 (235 hp)
1970 Chimney Pop Top (120 hp) SRFBUS1
1990 Vanagon (95 hp)
1985 Vanagon GL (85 hp)
1969 Tin Top 1 owner OG
Can I get any slower?
2015 CC R-Line (heavily mod'd) |
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Pinetops
Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2007
Posts: 2987
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| Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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Nice clean interior Dillion, I like it. Have you noticed a significant difference in road noise?
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"A rolling bus gathers no rust." |
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PITApan
Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2014
Posts: 1058
Location: Northern Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 6:41 pm Post subject: Re: Soundproofing |
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| Vonfyren wrote: |
I have a 77 day camper and was wondering if I could get any advice on the best way to get rid of the drumming/tin can sound when driving at higher speeds. I still want to be able to hear my engine but would like to be able to hold a conversation on the freeway. I already put some soundproofing (from RAAMaudio) in the grooves on the floor in the back and on top of the engine compartment.
What other places would benefit from soundproofing and is there a better product that isn't too expensive? I'm 19 and this is my first car so I'm still trying to figure everything out.
Thanks!
Nik |
Dynamat or similar is the material. You can't just put in the grooves, you put it everywhere.
It costs vastly more than it is worth because it's part of the car stereo rip-off business. Anyway the more you spend the quieter things will be.
Some vans were fitted (stock) with tar impregnated felt. You could possibly make this with hot roofing tar and thick felt. It's gonna stink until the tar dries out. What you are after is a thin material with a LOT of mass.
You might try shooting low expansion foam between the inner frame and outer skin.
The interior surfaces also matter as far as absorbing sound bouncing around the inside. Lots of deep shag carpet, acoustical foam panels on the ceiling, etc. |
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dillon70
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2008
Posts: 234
Location: Ventura, Ca.
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| Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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The difference is night and day. Now you can have a conversation with someone in the backseat at 55mph. The stereo sounds sooo much better too.
I plan on doing the engine compartment above the motor. I was going to do it on the inside on top of the motor compartment, but couldn't bring myself to cover the OG paint. It's just setting on there and not stuck down.
_________________
2001 ZO6 (450+hp)
1985 930 Turbo (400+hp)
1970 Z28 (360+hp)
1979 911 (235 hp)
1970 Chimney Pop Top (120 hp) SRFBUS1
1990 Vanagon (95 hp)
1985 Vanagon GL (85 hp)
1969 Tin Top 1 owner OG
Can I get any slower?
2015 CC R-Line (heavily mod'd) |
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Ludwig van
Samba Member
Joined: April 17, 2009
Posts: 149
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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| Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 9:25 pm Post subject: |
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I'd avoid the expanding foam unless you want to be doing a lot of rust repair in a few years. It's a real moisture trap. I used it on my engine lid and wish I hadn't.
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Our iPad e-book "Camping With Ludwig Van"
http://store.blurb.com/ebooks/356253-camping-with-ludwig-van |
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Goldylocks
Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2014
Posts: 31
Location: Denver, Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 6:44 am Post subject: Nice! |
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Do you have any pics of what you did around the front doors? I'd like to put thicker sound proofing material in there, but it might be tough with the window. I'm curious to see what you did. Thanks.
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Denver, Colorado
1973 Safare Hightop |
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BUSBOSS
Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2009
Posts: 2161
Location: Northern California
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Thrasher22
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2010
Posts: 858
Location: Calgary, Canada
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| Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 8:38 am Post subject: |
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I've been going through and adding this stuff where ever I can hide it. Much more reasonably priced than something like dynamat and from what I've seen online is comparable in quality.
http://b-quiet.com/
Although the biggest thing I did for road noise was play with my door alignment and seals. If they're not tight to the body you'll get a lot of noise.
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1975 Westfalia - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516701 |
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Hoody
Samba Member
Joined: November 28, 2007
Posts: 1946
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| Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:53 am Post subject: |
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| There is ALOT of mis information out there about sound deadening. You only need to sound deaden something like 30 percent of a panel. Whatever you do do not shoot foam in between the panels!!!!! That will absolutely insure death to your bus! And putting it in the grooves on the floor is all that is needed. PM me and I can send you some pics of what I did. |
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dillon70
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2008
Posts: 234
Location: Ventura, Ca.
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| Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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You can double layer some of the thinner materials out there for more density in larger panels, but remember, more material equals more weight.
I doubled the doors, side panels and every other strip on the ceiling. I will also double up the engine bay above the motor.
_________________
2001 ZO6 (450+hp)
1985 930 Turbo (400+hp)
1970 Z28 (360+hp)
1979 911 (235 hp)
1970 Chimney Pop Top (120 hp) SRFBUS1
1990 Vanagon (95 hp)
1985 Vanagon GL (85 hp)
1969 Tin Top 1 owner OG
Can I get any slower?
2015 CC R-Line (heavily mod'd) |
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deronmoped
Samba Member
Joined: November 18, 2006
Posts: 370
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 3:51 pm Post subject: |
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Replace the engine.
I did all the sound deadening stuff and it was still way too loud for my taste. I then dropped in a cast iron Buick V6. Nirvana! Even with a performance exhaust, it's a night and day difference. A engine swap is a major undertaking, but if I'm going to be driving this Bus around for the next thirty years, I think I will make it that much more enjoyable. |
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tristessa
Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2004
Posts: 3985
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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| deronmoped wrote: |
| Replace the engine. |
While it's not the easiest or cheapest thing to do (among other drawbacks), there is truth to the statement. My Bus is so much quieter with the ABA watercooled lump in the back, even at 75+MPH with the engine turning almost 4000RPM. Heck, sometimes around town I almost can't tell it's running because the noise from the open window is louder... |
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dillon70
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2008
Posts: 234
Location: Ventura, Ca.
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| Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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Engine bay top, done..... My arms are tired...
_________________
2001 ZO6 (450+hp)
1985 930 Turbo (400+hp)
1970 Z28 (360+hp)
1979 911 (235 hp)
1970 Chimney Pop Top (120 hp) SRFBUS1
1990 Vanagon (95 hp)
1985 Vanagon GL (85 hp)
1969 Tin Top 1 owner OG
Can I get any slower?
2015 CC R-Line (heavily mod'd) |
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airkooledchris
Samba Member
Joined: January 25, 2005
Posts: 2684
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| Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 5:07 pm Post subject: |
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| Thrasher22 wrote: |
Although the biggest thing I did for road noise was play with my door alignment and seals. If they're not tight to the body you'll get a lot of noise. |
I just wanted to bring this up again. Don't rush to adding new parts until you fix the parts that are already there. Just fixing all of the little wind leak noises coming from doors/seals will make a massive dent in the noise problem.
I haven't done a thing to my current bus. Ive done them in the past and it does make a difference, but im nowhere near caught up to all of the important bits that are stock to the vehicle and in need of attention to go adding sound deadening to it yet. I hope I get to that point someday, but it's low on the priority list. |
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richparker
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2011
Posts: 6543
Location: Durango, CO
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| Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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| dillon70 wrote: |
Engine bay top, done..... My arms are tired...
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I wonder how that will handle the heat on a hot sunny day.
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dillon70
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2008
Posts: 234
Location: Ventura, Ca.
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| Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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I was thinking of some aluminum diamond plate pieces cut to fit. The existing tabs should keep it up and add some unseen bling.
_________________
2001 ZO6 (450+hp)
1985 930 Turbo (400+hp)
1970 Z28 (360+hp)
1979 911 (235 hp)
1970 Chimney Pop Top (120 hp) SRFBUS1
1990 Vanagon (95 hp)
1985 Vanagon GL (85 hp)
1969 Tin Top 1 owner OG
Can I get any slower?
2015 CC R-Line (heavily mod'd) |
|
| Back to top |
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PITApan
Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2014
Posts: 1058
Location: Northern Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 7:56 pm Post subject: |
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| dillon70 wrote: |
| I was thinking of some aluminum diamond plate pieces cut to fit. The existing tabs should keep it up and add some unseen bling. |
I recently had to strip some of that stuff. I think it's stock Westy. heatgun melted it and made an unbelievable mess. Hair dryer on hi was about right used carefully. You could just pull it away intact---and sort of roll it away.
I don't think you'll have problems but you might try a hair dryer on a corner and see if you can make it sag. You can always poke it back when it cools. |
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