Emergency Brake Adjustment Procedure Needed for the Syncro

[warmblood58]

Hello All, need to adjust syncro ebrake (1987) as it is barely holding. I remember a procedure where the brake handle was pulled up 5 clicks or so and then adjusting at the star adjusters until they could not be turned and then releasing the ebrake to ensure no dragging . . . I believe that the ebrake self adjusts but no doubt the star adjusters are gunked up and want to do this procedure first adjusting at the drum adjusters. I'll clean star adjusters later when I pull drums in the spring. Anyone have a procedure? Thanks!

[borninabus]

vans don't have star adjusters like all the VWs that proceeded them.
the rear brakes are "self adjusting" and they use a turnbuckle type thingy to do the adjusting.

the "right" way to adjust your e-brake is to remove the rear drums de-gunk everything in there--especially the adjuster.
put everything back where it's supposed to go and adjust the shoes out to 1.5mm less than the diameter of the drum.
put the drum back on and give em a few pumps; they should drag sightly.

if they still require adjustment after that then it can be done @ the cable adjustment under the van about mid way.

don't over-think it too hard
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88 Van WBX, A/T - 13 JSW TDI 6M/T - 2012 Touareg TDI Sport

[warmblood58]

Thanks, hope I still have my Bentley manual around somewhere. So no access to adjuster on the back side of the brake plate?

[Syncro Jael]

They are self adjusting brakes but there is an adjuster to set the shoes.

Hopefully these sites will help, besides the Bentley

http://www.vanagonparts.com/brakes.html
http://www.vanagonauts.com/Rear-Brake-Adjustment233.htm
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6099719
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat)

[MarkWard]

[warmblood58]

[1vw4x4]

Actually your probably wasting your time. I've fixed dozens of vanagon rear
brakes and not one has ever needed a E-brake adjustment, if still
set at the factory specs. Many times, almost all, I find some idiot mechanics
was in there prior and messed everything up.
You need to check over the rear brakes, and all the hardware very carefully first!

[Californio]

While we're on the subject, my 1987 Syncro has a related e-brake problem--the cross bar where the brake cables split is way at an angle, as if the the rear cables are different lengths. So much so that one cable kept popping out of its hole until I put on a zip tie. The rear brakes were redone less than 10K miles ago but this problem predates that.

[dobryan]

[Californio]

Ok I have a few pics, not great because I couldn't get in there with the driveshaft protectors on. This is best:

If you turn your head sideways, sorry, you can see it's at about a 30* angle.

Also, the nut is adjusted almost as far up as it will go.

[warmblood58]

Can the adjusters be reversed accidentally? Ive heard this can happen on the vanagon

[syncrodoka]

Yes, they could be put on the wrong side. There is a left set and a right set. The one with a L on it goes on the passenger side.
Typically the brakes need to be adjusted with the star adjuster and then backed off a few turns to keep everything tight.
Adjusting the rear brakes does a good job of firming up the brake pedal feel as well.

[warmblood58]

[syncrodoka]

[Californio]

Thanks for clarifying. Now to figure out why it slips out like that. Will post later if needed, don't want to hijack this thread.

[EL31415]

Learned something new today.
And saved me a trip under my van to try to "rectified" that ebrake cable angle.
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1985 Westy

[Terry Kay]

The correct proceedure here is to adjust up the rear brakes properly, then, and only then if you do not have much e-brake application when you yank on the handle, then adjust the cable at the center cable union.
In this instance your front cable is stretched beyond correct adjustment.

Get a new front cable--then start adjusting.
_________________
T.K.

[warmblood58]

What makes sense to me is to simply adjust brakes via adjuster until locked and back off so wheel spins free and check ebrake. If still too much handle travel required then adjust under van at union/rod. I do agree that pulling drums and checking assembly on a new (new to me) vehicle is always worthwhile as you just never know . . . I have found the craziest things in my wrenching experiences with used vehicles not to mention houses . . . .kinda like the time I cut into an active black waste line with a sawzall and cut through paired 220 and 110 LIVE conduit . . . . almost used a hacksaw that day, thank god I got lazy at the last moment . . . Previous owner thought using an active waste line to run electrical was a good idea . . . .Nope.

[warmblood58]

[insyncro]

Again, the Corter thread has detailed pictures of the rear assembly and the correct mounting of the adjusters.
Before any trolls chime in, YES, I mounted them wrong in the initial setup of the brake system.
They were changed immediately, no harm no foul.

As far as how to adjust....
Ken Wilfy / VanAgain has a great writeup from years ago.
Paraphrased, having the rear drums spinning but dragging a tiny bit on the pads is where you want the final brake adjustment.
The pads will wear in within a few miles.
You can radius pads, use lower shims or adjusters to help position the pads at the drum arc better.....all covered in other brake threads.

The emergency brake is very easy to adjust when the rear brakes are properly adjusted.
Take out any slack in the lines and adjust at the rod, midway to the cabin.

Using a split piece of vacuum line over the cable/rod where it passes threw the chassis cross members is a great way to limit any noise that the rod may make over rough terrain.

I prefer two clicks to hold and three to hold on a slight incline.

As with rear disc brake conversions, if you want amazing offroad holding power, custom cables that adjust is the answer there.
Again, other threads have the info and part numbers if one wishes to purchase.