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deronmoped
Samba Member
Joined: November 18, 2006
Posts: 375
Location: San Diego
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 Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:50 pm Post subject: Shifter coupling, stock, aftermarket? |
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How is the original, stock coupling made? The one I have has plastic and metal parts. I was wondering if the stock used some rubber to dampen engine vibrations. If so where can I get a stock style one?
And here is another question. Should the shift shaft attachment head be able to slide back and forth over the sleeve on the coupling? Or should it be tight in the coupling? |
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Brian
Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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deronmoped
Samba Member
Joined: November 18, 2006
Posts: 375
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 6:23 pm Post subject: |
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The first one is the one I have.
I did pick one up today and it has rubber in it. It's a German one and it looks like it is a reject. The center part, which the bolt screws into is all bent out of shape and the set screw does not thread in perpendicular. It's usable though.
I still have the question, should the shifter shaft end that attaches inside the coupling be able to slide back and forth, or should it be fixed. |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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| deronmoped wrote: |
I still have the question, should the shifter shaft end that attaches inside the coupling be able to slide back and forth, or should it be fixed. |
These cars have the longest shift rod system of any passenger car on the road today, so there are a few more parts than your average Civic. Shift shaft? There are two, sometimes three depending on year. Which end of the coupling, front or rear?
I'm going to assume you mean:
The shift rod coming out of the chassis in front of the coupler, (which is actually the [u]rear[/] shift rod,) does not fit tightly around the long roll-pin-style "nut" that the long screw threads in to. That roll pin nut should be a push fit into the rear shift rod (in the [u]front[/] of the coupler,) hole. If yours has slop, something is not right. It sounds like you're due for a new coupler anyway, and all the decent ones come with bolts.
EDIT: It could also mean, like in Tcash's diagram below, that the locating nut isn't locating the coupler into the transaxle nosecone shaft. Either the hole is wallowed out, or the screw isn't set in it all the way.
Wolfsburg West sells one with the VW/Audi logo, and it has little play between the bushings until everything is tightened down.
Robbie
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Last edited by airschooled on Thu Feb 12, 2015 8:33 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 8:31 pm Post subject: |
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| deronmoped wrote: |
| I still have the question, should the shifter shaft end that attaches inside the coupling be able to slide back and forth, or should it be fixed. |
The set screw locks the shift coupler and the shift rod together and prevents the shift rod from moving back and forth in the shift coupler.
Good Luck
Tcash |
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deronmoped
Samba Member
Joined: November 18, 2006
Posts: 375
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks guys,
I re-assembled it with parts from a new German one and the parts I had on hand. The German one's pin was not as beefy as the one I used. Even the cage on the German one was thinner metal. I did use the German square bushings, as they are new.
I was surprised, it had German and VW stamped all over it, yet it was not made very good. |
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deronmoped
Samba Member
Joined: November 18, 2006
Posts: 375
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| deronmoped wrote: |
I still have the question, should the shifter shaft end that attaches inside the coupling be able to slide back and forth, or should it be fixed. |
These cars have the longest shift rod system of any passenger car on the road today, so there are a few more parts than your average Civic. Shift shaft? There are two, sometimes three depending on year. Which end of the coupling, front or rear?
I'm going to assume you mean:
The shift rod coming out of the chassis in front of the coupler, (which is actually the [u]rear[/] shift rod,) does not fit tightly around the long roll-pin-style "nut" that the long screw threads in to. That roll pin nut should be a push fit into the rear shift rod (in the [u]front[/] of the coupler,) hole. If yours has slop, something is not right. It sounds like you're due for a new coupler anyway, and all the decent ones come with bolts.
EDIT: It could also mean, like in Tcash's diagram below, that the locating nut isn't locating the coupler into the transaxle nosecone shaft. Either the hole is wallowed out, or the screw isn't set in it all the way.
Wolfsburg West sells one with the VW/Audi logo, and it has little play between the bushings until everything is tightened down.
Robbie |
So then, I'm assuming the roll pin and it's ability slide back and forth inside the shifter rod end, is designed that way, as to aid in alignment and or help reduce vibrations being transmitted farther up the shifter assembly. |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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No. There should not be any play in the system. The plastic/rubber bushings insulate the shift rod from vibration. No slop allowed.
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vwible
Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2005
Posts: 160
Location: East Windsor, NJ
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| Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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Sometimes the conical shape of the square-headed screw does not match up with the tapered hole of the transmission's hockey stick shaft. I experienced that with a new German coupler and had to reuse the original screw.
The shape of the point should fit tight into the that without slop.
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wcfvw69 
Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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| deronmoped wrote: |
I was surprised, it had German and VW stamped all over it, yet it was not made very good. |
I also bought this same "German" coupler. The rubber blocks or inserts and the pin that goes thru them was garbage. I went and bought the EMPI made red, hard urethane coupler. I was shocked how much better it was compared to the "German" one. The German rubber blocks had far to much flex/slob in them and the urethane had no movement.
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deronmoped
Samba Member
Joined: November 18, 2006
Posts: 375
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 9:48 am Post subject: |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| No. There should not be any play in the system. The plastic/rubber bushings insulate the shift rod from vibration. No slop allowed. |
I would not call it slop, as the shifter rod end fits over the pin with no front to back movement and the shifter functions like it should. It just has the ability to slid back and forth between the rubber/plastic bushing. I would have to add spacers to keep in one posistion. |
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panic_fan
Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2008
Posts: 711
Location: Mcdonough GA
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zerothehero
Samba Member
Joined: March 16, 2008
Posts: 214
Location: Derbyshire
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 6:12 am Post subject: |
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The last time I changed one the only new part I used was the rubber bushing. The rest of the aftermarket harware was useless.
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madmike
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2005
Posts: 5292
Location: Atlanta,Michigan
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 6:28 am Post subject: |
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Trick thing to do is just use the new red bushings in the Original coupler 
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panic_fan
Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2008
Posts: 711
Location: Mcdonough GA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 6:45 am Post subject: |
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| zerothehero wrote: |
| The last time I changed one the only new part I used was the rubber bushing. The rest of the aftermarket harware was useless. |
THats what I did as well. Altough mine is black not red?
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DougB
Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2007
Posts: 1076
Location: Falls Church, Virginia, USA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 6:46 am Post subject: Billet Aluminium CNC shift coupler |
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I'm using one of the machined, solid aluminum ones a Samba advertiser sells (combined with a short throw shifter, all new shift rod bushings and a newly Rancho rebuilt 5-rub 002 tranny...been running this combo for 15,000 miles with no issues):
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1252462
Very good results though I think one advantage to the stock coupler with the rubber is that it isolates the shift rod and shifter from vibrations. I do get a little more vibration/noise in the driver area because of it but it works well. Very well made, too...no cheap hollow pin/wood screw combinations like some of the cheaper stock-style units I've seen.
- Doug
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 6:53 am Post subject: |
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I bought a kit for that new ^^ The screw hole in the steel cage part wasn't even tapped - but my OG one was in great shape, so we re-used the plastic block things and put it back together. Seems ok, won't know until the transmission is back in.
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deronmoped
Samba Member
Joined: November 18, 2006
Posts: 375
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Yeah, whoever is making the "German" ones have no quality control. The one I had was tapped at a angle, that would throw the shifting off. The rubber bushings seem fine, but the metal cage is inferior at best and junk at worst. |
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alikatcraig
Samba Member
Joined: September 09, 2007
Posts: 556
Location: Anaheim, CA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:51 pm Post subject: |
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I am guessing the German made ones were a reject batch that ended up over here - a friend was given for free a handful of them in his large order from one of the big parts suppliers - not one had the set screw/grub screw hole in the right orientation. However, if flipped and re-drilled/tapped or the old cage is used, then these work nicely - and free is even better. Retailers should be aware of this quality issue and not be selling them as 1st quality.
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