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John, the Engineer - '77 Champagne Transporter Build/Travels
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler


Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seriously badass bus! Bobby Hill starring as: The Bus Priest. Coming to an indie-smut cinema near you.


I dig your patina, and I for one thought the patina fade you did on the rear driver's side repainted panel was really good.

I think I'm going to take a page out of your book and do the interior restoration around the windows and back corners. Very inspired.
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1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI
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BusPriest
Samba Member


Joined: October 08, 2014
Posts: 420
Location: Denver, Co
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks submariner!
I am pretty happy with the corners, but I should have redone it when my windows were out. Going to have to do it again when I eventually pull the headliner in favor of wood.


Speaking of wood, I did some wood work yesterday. Thanks to Kirk for providing a shell to build around.

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_________________
1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.
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BusPriest
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Joined: October 08, 2014
Posts: 420
Location: Denver, Co
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please ignore my stain mistake in brush direction on that last picture
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1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.
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Kirk
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Joined: December 05, 2003
Posts: 5487
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks good! I didn't notice the brush mark until you told me. Laughing
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler


Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same here, lol. The frames around the cubby holes are super fancy. Another great save. Champagnes unite!
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-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI
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Pinetops
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Joined: March 24, 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool bus! After all the headaches with the paint I would probably just clean up all the rust spots above the belt line, chemically treat (phosphoric acid) and blend them in. Then I'd paint a color of my choosing below the beltline. I've had of couple of the brown late bays myself. It's not my favorite color they ever used but its kinda cool. I like it with the orange ('79 only I think) above beltline. Just some pointless rambling sorry, keep up the good work on that awesome bus.
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BusPriest
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Joined: October 08, 2014
Posts: 420
Location: Denver, Co
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks y'all! It's fun work.
Pine- yeah maybe... I'm just gonna leave it for now. Maybe someday when I get some funds I get it done by a decent shop.


Posting now as I take a break before mounting the front fuse box. It's hot outside for the shade tree mechanic!

Moved my sub from under my seat to inside the cabinet.That was the plan all long and why I made only two cubbies. Now I got my underseat storage back!!

Please excuse my wiring, I'm new to it.

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Yes those are party led lights Smile

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Second battery
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1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.
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BusPriest
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Joined: October 08, 2014
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Location: Denver, Co
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok weird question:

Moved the battery to amp power to second battery.
The head unit is still powered off main fuse box (but I will switch that soon.)
Turned stereo on while driving and made a funny noise so I turned it off. Remembered that sub wasn't plugged in. Plugged in sub.
The stereo is still making funky sounds. It sounds like reverb and it kinda goes along with the engine sounds/rpms

Any ideas?
_________________
1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.
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BusPriest
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Joined: October 08, 2014
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Location: Denver, Co
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could this ground be bad? I wire wheeled it clean to bare metal.

I also moved the ground for the isolator to this ground strap to see if it would help.
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1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.


Last edited by BusPriest on Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
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Location: San Jose, California, USA
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have a volt ohm meter?
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BusPriest
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No but at Home Depot right now. So I'll get one if that would help
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1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.
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zoobum
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Joined: June 09, 2015
Posts: 211
Location: Los Angeles
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BusPriest wrote:

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Yes those are party led lights Smile


Man, I really dig those lights. Reminds me of virgin america. Great job!
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BusPriest
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Location: Denver, Co
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the multimeter and waiting on tcash to save my ass again!
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1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a stereo guy. But to test the ground.

Hook the red test lead to the battery +Pos terminal.
Touch the black test lead to the battery post. Note voltage reading.
Touch the black test lead to the battery cable terminal. If the ground is good, you will see the same voltage.
If the ground is bad voltage will be lower.

You can follow a circuit like this until you find the bad connection.
Just keep in mind it is like a chain. So you need to test every link in the chain.

You can test the Positive side of the circuit this way also. Leave the Black test lead connected to the negative battery post and touch the Red test lead to the connections being tested.

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Hope this helps
Tcash

PS make sure the Aux battery is charged, you should see at least 12.6 volts. It may not have enough power to drive the Amp.
A blown diode in the Alt. will cause feedback.
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BusPriest
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome thank you tcash!

What are the yellow square and white circle?
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1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.
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ccpalmer
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BusPriest wrote:
Awesome thank you tcash!

What are the yellow square and white circle?


I think they represent your multimeter.
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BusPriest
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh wow. Lol. You're right. Long day yesterday
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1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.
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Bansheelos
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Joined: February 27, 2012
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Location: NY/NJ
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Insane work on your bus man!!! Shit is sweet!!!!
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BusPriest
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Bansh.


Well bad news. Engine is toast. I started another thread about this, so ill paraphrase it here.

BusPriest wrote:
hey guys.
Driving my 77 bus with 2.0 and single carb. Heat outside is about 100 today.
Recently changed oil and filter with 4qts of 20w-50. Last gas fill up put a little marvel mystery oil to help mpg.

Today drove 80 miles and my engine was making some kinda noise but couldn't figure it out.
Finally the engine puttered out. Smoke was pouring out of the engine bay. I thought maybe too much oil was in it and oil had shot out of the case at the dipstick and other places. This caused a mess in the bay and probably most of the smoke. so I checked it and oil looked low so I added a little. Puttered after sitting for 20 minutes to a gas satiation and sat for another 20 minutes.

Left the gas station and 10 miles later it died again.
The sound it's making is like when the clanking of pushing the buss in 4th up a hill or starting in first without enough gas. It's not a constant rhythm and I can only hear it out the window, not at all coming from the bay inside the bus.

Any ideas???


sjbartnik wrote:
BusPriest wrote:

The sound it's making is like when the clanking of pushing the buss in 4th up a hill or starting in first without enough gas. It's not a constant rhythm and I can only hear it out the window, not at all coming from the bay inside the bus.

Any ideas???


That sound is called pinging. Your Bus should never make that sound. It means your timing is way too far advanced or you are using gasoline of inadequate octane. If you are hearing that sound, it means severe engine damage is on the way. That is not a sound you should ever hear from your Bus.

Check your timing and report back.

SGKent wrote:
BusPriest wrote:
I have not messed with the timing. I know it's a petronix. Not sure how to check it. I will look thru Bentley and Muir and find out.

If low octane could be the cause, I wonder if the couple ounces of MMO did that. I can limp to a gas station and put about half a tank of 93 octane to balance it out ?


The only concerns here are your bus, you, your family, and your wallet.

Engine detonation and pinging are bad thing in an engine. The photo below is what can happen. You are asking for advice what to do when this could be the consequence IF it is actual pinging and detonation - which it may be. Will 93 octane help? Probably. Will you make it there? I don't know as I can't see the future. Will 93 octane stop it. I don't know. Is there permanent damage? I don't know. Could it be a loose piece of tin buzzing? Maybe. Does MMO lower the octane, maybe some say it did for them. The solution is to get a timing light on it and see where the timing is. Since you don't know who sets the timing, it could be anywhere. What are the consequences of your decision(s)? Step into the future and look back. Wish I could be more help. Maybe others will have a better solution.

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BusPriest wrote:
Number 3 cylinder is reading 0.


busdaddy wrote:
BusPriest wrote:
Number 3 cylinder is reading 0.


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I'll hang my head for a moment of silence for your engine Crying or Very sad


BusPriest wrote:
It's a very expensive lesson. Glad it didn't happen in big bend. Had some bus guys help me in elm Mott, tx.
Probably going to take it to brad fenn in Dallas, as he is a very talented and respected type 4 mechanic.
If it's not too bad I'll fix it, but if it's totaled... I might call myself out on the promise I made to myself to go Subaru.

Thanks for the help.


SGKent wrote:
It all depends on how much time and money you have. If a piston burned thru there is metal in the oil. The stainer kept most of it out of the pump and if the filter is clean it probably caught all of it that got past there. It only bypasses when the difference in pressure across it is high. Also the filter can be cut open to see how much got past the screen.

If it is not bad you could buy a set of used pistons and cylinders, have them cleaned, find some new rings for them, bottle brush the cylinders and throw it back together to continue using it. You will want to check the heads closely because there is a longshot chance that a seat was getting loose when the heads were at their hottest up grades, etc., and you heard it rattling around followed by the valve being open a bit. If it is the heads then you will have to decide whether to replace or rebuild. If it is a piston have the shop who does the work peen around the seats to be sure they stay in. That and the used cylinders will buy you time and miles until you can decide what to do. If you decide to rebuild the type 4 completely like a new engine figure on $4500. If you decide to go water cooled, I think Skill said double that and add a year to the process. Based on what I am seeing in my T4 091 trans, if you go water cooled that may be your next challenge as the extra HP causes the plastic bearing carriers in the trans to melt. Mine melted just with the HP from the air cooled engine.


skills@eurocarsplus wrote:
SGKent wrote:
I think Skill said double that and add a year to the process. Based on what I am seeing in my T4 091 trans, if you go water cooled that may be your next challenge as the extra HP causes the plastic bearing carriers in the trans to melt. Mine melted just with the HP from the air cooled engine.


you can do the swap on the cheap. timeline...depends on where you get your parts. late bay guys have way more off the shelf stuff than early bay.

I would regear the 091. it was a poor choice with the Subaru, imho. useable, but not ideal (would not do swap using a 002...no way, no how)

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1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.
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BusPriest
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its time for a subaru.
Going to do it on the cheap cheap. Will regear transmission next year.
Hoping to part out the donor car to get price down.
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1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.
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