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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dana Champion wrote:
I do believe, hands down, that the factory naturally aspirated diesel Westfalia 1600, is by far, the slowest Vanagon on the planet. Just my own personal experience. Great mileage though!


Hmmmm........ Not so sure.....
First VW Westfalia conversion was done in 1951.

Here are the performance specs for a 1954 Type II

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Ghia
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Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert
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kamzcab86
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:
Hmmmm........ Not so sure.....
First VW Westfalia conversion was done in 1951.

Here are the performance specs for a 1954 Type II


But:

Dana Champion wrote:
I do believe, hands down, that the factory naturally aspirated diesel Westfalia 1600, is by far, the slowest Vanagon on the planet. Just my own personal experience. Great mileage though!


Dana said "Vanagon", not "Type II". Wink

The van in the OP is most definitely a restoration project. If you can get it for a song and are wanting to put work into, go for it. While I would never own one, I do enjoy seeing old air-cooled Vanagons still wandering the countryside. Very Happy
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah..... Read the full statement dummy! Embarassed

Lot of stress and lack of sleep in my life right now, I cut me a break!
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replaced a bunch of fuel and vacuum lines and got it started real easy after I let oil pressure build up with the coil disconnected, but it would not stay running. I used a 5 gallon can of gas and a fuel pump left over from my 1977 bus. Probably still some vacuum leaks, and I couldn't keep it running long enough to check fuel manifold pressure. TS2 or the fuel pump relay may be suspect, but the hot wired ignition switch doesn't help. Evil or Very Mad

Too many opportunities for neglect and hacks to creep in at this stage to confuse the issue. Really need to replace every vacuum affected seal and test each engine management component per the manual.

Satisfied, I agreed to $1000 for the van and $200 for the other engine.
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rubbachicken
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice one mr wasted youth, i've been watching that one on craigs list, if i have where to keep it, i'd have bought it, there's a LOT of potential there, an hour or 4 with a shop vac and a mop and bucket, it's come clean, then you can see where to begin.

good luck, keep posting pictures of your progress, and ignore the nay sayers Smile
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rubbachicken wrote:
nice one mr wasted youth, i've been watching that one on craigs list, if i have where to keep it, i'd have bought it, there's a LOT of potential there, an hour or 4 with a shop vac and a mop and bucket, it's come clean, then you can see where to begin.

good luck, keep posting pictures of your progress, and ignore the nay sayers Smile


Thanks. Looking forward to doing my own work without hoping I didn't get dicked buying someone's sawdust filled differential with shiny paint Mad I like doing my own work.

By the way, I didn't find this on CL... Got a link to what you were looking at?
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rubbachicken
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i just looked, the CL advert is long gone, i think it was up there for $1300

Wasted youth wrote:

Thanks. Looking forward to doing my own work without hoping I didn't get dicked buying someone's sawdust filled differential with shiny paint Mad I like doing my own work.

By the way, I didn't find this on CL... Got a link to what you were looking at?

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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 3:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Recap... all afternoon I would get buffeted by quick bursts of light breezes filled with fine dust. Although the wind was not strong, it was effective in being annoying with the damned dust. The other cars and motorhomes around me acted both like shields sometimes and canyons other times, alternately shielding me from, and then channeling the torture. It is in my eyes, my crotch and my socks. Both tool boxes have been peppered with the sandy dust, and its sticking to my tools. It rained lightly off and on all day, never enough to kill the dust, always quickly drying out. Springtime in our desert.

All of this to the soundtrack of torn aluminum siding on various motor homes around me flapping gently against old pallets and other crap. And not a soul around but me. Every other time I got up or out from under the van to do something, I expected some San Bernardino County tweeker to be standing in the door of one of the 1970-something gutted trailers staring at me through scratched up sunglasses.

Anyway...

The propane tank guard was definitely the victim of negligence, but the tank and plumbing is OK. All outdated fittings.

The trailing arms are rust free, and not damaged. The suspension looks pretty good. Of course all the bushings, shocks, etc. are old.

The sideswipe got the panel and sliding door pretty damned good, but the wheel is inside of that and escaped that negligent event.

I got all four tires changed out with old tires that hold air, enough to get it on a flatbed for transport. Bent the star wrench a little trying to free up two of the front wheel lug bolts. Made me think of how screwed I'd be if I needed an impact wrench. Shocked Rears had no issues.

I am now convinced that the mountains of dust that are in the van are not connected to flood damage. I brought home enough of that airborne crap in my clothes, tools and supply boxes to stucco my house.

It was frustrating not being able to get the engine to idle, but I am familiar enough with L-jet to understand it has near zero tolerance for irregularities. There is only so much of my garage and parts stash that I can take with me out into the field. I will have to be satisfied that it started right up every time, ran for about two seconds then died. At least it did that. The rest of the problems will work themselves out when they are confronted with my time and money.

a1fa wrote:
.... I look at that $500 van, and I am reminded of how much things cost to fix, even doing them yourself. The van may clean-up nice, but then what?

All of a sudden this van is costing you $10-15k, when all you could get out of it is $5k. Value is determined by what someone is willing to pay. We all can ask $10000 on our air cooled Vanagons, but if there isn't a sucker willing to pay $10000, then you are just going to sit on it, until that sucker shows up.

It's a project van or a parts van. No body is going to buy the motor by itself. There are millions of them out there. Re-builders only charge $250 core free for your old one..

Somebody asked me if I was the seller would I have sold it at $500. Depends how bad I need it gone. If I don't need it gone, I'd price it $10k. You never know, some sucker would want it that bad...


Arrow ... and I totally get that. I would like to emphasize from my original post that I am not interested in trying to make a buck here. This is something I intend to use, I asked for opinions about value/pricing, because you guys know more about these than I do and I would rather hear the cold truth than try to figure it out in a short period on my own. I certainly got some excellent, realistic responses. Razz Thanks to all of you for shining the light in here! Cool

That spare motor is a great parts source, perhaps even rebuildable as a complete turn-key. It felt good turning over by hand, anyway. I took the valve covers off, and they are surprisingly much cleaner than the engine in the van. The EGR valve is NLA, and so is the PCV. Both of those, the tin and Bosch injectors combined, if sourced through the classifieds, far exceed the total cost of what I paid for that engine. Total score in my book. It will join my other transmissions and engines as stash, not resale, no core.

As far as driving an underpowered giant box... personally, I feel the technology existed in 1981 to move way beyond a two liter engine, regardless of how it was cooled, but VW did not see it that way. So, by proxy I agree with their logic when I choose to own one. Driving a big frigg'n box powered by a large lawnmower engine isn't going to please too many other drivers in 2015 and beyond, but that's just tough shit. Laughing I'm OK with it, really. It's gonna be slow, just like my other VW's, but I will move way up the ladder from car camping. Yay!

And the little square thing on the door panel isn't where you put your weed... it's a speaker. Really. Surprised

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Dana Champion
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kamzcab86 wrote:
djkeev wrote:
Hmmmm........ Not so sure.....
First VW Westfalia conversion was done in 1951.

Here are the performance specs for a 1954 Type II


But:

Dana Champion wrote:
I do believe, hands down, that the factory naturally aspirated diesel Westfalia 1600, is by far, the slowest Vanagon on the planet. Just my own personal experience. Great mileage though!


Dana said "Vanagon", not "Type II". Wink

The van in the OP is most definitely a restoration project. If you can get it for a song and are wanting to put work into, go for it. While I would never own one, I do enjoy seeing old air-cooled Vanagons still wandering the countryside. Very Happy


Thanks Kamz. I see the benefit in the quote feature. Laughing still learning...

And congratulations Wasted Youth on your score!
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oldhuldy67
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wasted youth,....no longer. I drive a 1980 Westy, have a few leftover parts, mostly interior things. I do have window cranks and will send some to HELP you get cranking...PM me with a good mailing address...looking forward to your build thread. All the best, John in GA
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70coupyel
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wasted youth wrote:

And the little square thing on the door panel isn't where you put your weed... it's a speaker. Really. Surprised


Square speakers tha'ts soooo 80's. Wink
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Saying that specs are different than dimensions doesn't make sense. Porsche specs/VW specs/engineering specs are nothing but a series of dimensions,sizes,percentages,measurements, etc.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=338946&highlight=
70 KG Coup
83 Westy Waterboxer
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

congrats! let the fun begin. obligatory air cooled advice: ohm the harness, replace TSII, change fuel lines, fuel filter, vacuum, check fuel pressure, and make sure afm is connected... sit back.. collect )
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Alan Brase
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dana Champion wrote:
I do believe, hands down, that the factory naturally aspirated diesel Westfalia 1600, is by far, the slowest Vanagon on the planet. Just my own personal experience. Great mileage though!

Funny you'd mention that. I drove one for about 20 years as my work vehicle and usually 1800-3000lb load. I think I once weighed it at 6600lb.
I also have a 1980 Westy. I used to tell people that the Westy air cooled 70hp was way stronger than the 47hp diesel. I did not drive my Westy often. One outing, I was thinking: "this doesn't really seem as fast as it used to, perhaps I've been mistaken?" After about 5 more miles I realized I was in 3rd gear. I guess after shifting into 3rd, the noise seemed appropriate, I just forgot to hit 4th.
I do not know why everyone was so negative about this completely rust free, not worn out Westy.
The guy specifically said he wanted a user.
I consider tires and brake hoses and fuel lines to be consumables. Of all the cars for sale how many have NEW tires and Brake hoses and fuel lines. The amount of money many spend on these is NUTS. Perhaps you need bragging rights, but I don't. I have never seen a bottom end fail on a type 4.
I TAKE THAT BACK, ONE TIME. It was a 76 Riviera my ex wife bought on Ebay in Wyoming. Had not run since 1984. She tow barred it home, first few miles she couldn't figure out why it towed so hard. It was in reverse. Spun about 12000 rpm backwards.
I got it driving then the rod started squealing. Duh. Then I got the rest of the story.
But usually, this stuff fixed cheaply if you work smart. Don't get in a hurry. Be skeptical of changing parts just cause they are new. Old German is sometimes hard to beat.
Al
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was actually able to spend some more time on this van recently. Question for California people: The fuel pump relay (aka Double Relay) may be failing or failed. More on that later. Anyway, I saw two available, and didn't realize there was one specifically for California:

http://www.busdepot.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=03...sort_order

And then there is the usual relay:

http://www.busdepot.com/071906059

Question What is special about the California design? Why would it be important?

FWIW, the relay on my California emissions van looks like the old style metal case relay like what is found on late Baywindow buses.


Last edited by Wasted youth on Thu Jun 11, 2015 7:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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RCB
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, California Models have a particular Double Relay. Its the first one ( blue color ) Google the part number 0332514125 to see if a vendor actually has one in stock The prices may vary and the California specific one could possibly be difficult to locate. The California Part I believe is a 13 point pin connection and the Federal is 11 point.
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. Naturally, I will be looking into what those two extra pins connect to.
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Alan Brase
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wasted youth wrote:
Thanks. Naturally, I will be looking into what those two extra pins connect to.

It's a totally different system harness, more complex than the 74-78 one. It will have an O2 sensor and the resistance is built into the harness rather than a separate block on the firewall. In addition California Vanagons used a different exhaust system, very perplexing to look at. I think the main reason was to keep the exhaust hotter so to keep the catalytic converter at cooking temperature.
Also electronic ignition. Late systems had an electronic idle stabilizer as well, not sure if it was on any air cooleds or not.
Al
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83 1.6TD Vanagon, 87 Wolfie Westy daily driver, swap meet home
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

69doublecab wrote:
Wasted youth wrote:
Thanks. Naturally, I will be looking into what those two extra pins connect to.

It's a totally different system harness, more complex than the 74-78 one. It will have an O2 sensor and the resistance is built into the harness rather than a separate block on the firewall. In addition California Vanagons used a different exhaust system, very perplexing to look at. I think the main reason was to keep the exhaust hotter so to keep the catalytic converter at cooking temperature.
Also electronic ignition. Late systems had an electronic idle stabilizer as well, not sure if it was on any air cooleds or not.
Al


mine is an 83 california air-cooled. at far left of the below pic you can see part of the idle stabilizer. and yes the exhaust system is perplexing. I am wrestling with mine as i type this. It is almost entirely different than the federal version.
welcome and good luck!
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies! This system is more complex than the 1977 I last worked on, and am just now feeling my way through it, so I appreciate your experience and insight.
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 8:26 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 Vanagon Westfalia ~ A dry Arizona van! Reply with quote

It's been a long time since I've updated this thread. This is the extra engine I got with the deal. Fully dressed with some plastic parts damage, but it turns over by hand. After I got the van home, I pulled all the carpets and cushions and spent a hot afternoon washing as much sand and silt out of them as I could. Still has sand in the carpets!

I contacted a fellow Sambanista up near Sacramento and drove up there for a bunch of plastic body and trim parts, and also got an excellent condition slider door and replacement tail light housings from John and Abe Salvian in Fresno before their yard closed forever. I also ordered a new right rear fender well section to replace the dented up original.

Then, before I did anything more with this Westy we discovered and purchased a 1987 Westfalia, so this project never got traction.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This week, I got to work on making the engine run again. First thing is dropping the fuel tank and cleaning it out. There was some rust in there, but not awful. I followed Ratwell's process for prepping a tank for POR-15, but I am not going to do the POR-15 step, because I think the rust is not detrimental at this point. A thorough acid wash and stop-bath made it a lot better.

I have all the fuel tank grommets and seals on hand and a new sender and Bosch fuel pump is on its way... along with new back hatch struts and a pop-top seal kit from Van Cafe. It also needs a new tent, but I don't have the coin for that right now. Last year I bought several fuel pump relays for this system from AutohausAZ when they were on sale.

While I am waiting for those parts I removed the engine air intake system to replace all the seals there and bench-clean the fuel injectors. New inlet screens were installed on those and I got 2.5 ounces of fuel in 30 seconds time at 12VDC. All new fuel injector seals are on order, too.
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