How-to: rebuilding power steering rack & pinion

[AndyBees]

Although I did rebuild the PS on my 84, I've not installed it yet. I have no clue if the job is a success. I do know manual steering is not fun after being so use to the PS.

Anyway, now the PS is leaking terrible on my 89 Carat. So, I've give the thought of just replacing those big black outer seals and not bother with the other stuff ...

Thoughts?
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[Jake de Villiers]

[AndyBees]

Yeah, the PS was working just fine on my 89 Carat until early January, this year. And, it works great now, as long as it has fluid in the system... So, it would seem to me just replacing those two outer seals would be the thing to do.

Anyway, I've added to the oil slicks in numerous parking lots over the last 5 months.....
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[Sodo]

My rack is dripping too. I ordered the Gates 348522 seal kit.

Does anyone have pics of ALIKA T3's silicon boots installed on a rack?
And pics installed on the van?

Gray Silicon on left <-----> Black VW/Audi on right
silicon boots in Samba classified.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[AndyBees]

[ALIKA T3]

Link

I do not sell the rack seal kit anymore.
I highly advise on buying a good quality one if you don't want to do the job twice.
The silicone boots have been made with this in mind. Put them on and forget about it. I don't even put zip ties, they stay on by themselves. 3 years later, they still look like new and zero failure so far from anybody who used them.


Aloha!
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[VanPerson]

Howdy. So I've got a bit of a 55mph+ vibration in the steering wheel on my wife's 88 2WD Westy. It comes and goes depending on if I'm coming out of a corner or not. I've handled all the usual culprits (wheel balance, tie rod ends, bearings, alignment). I'm currently in the process of doing the rotors/pads, caliper seals. I've got the driver's side done, and doing the passenger side tonight. Maybe some slightly sticky calipers or wobbly rotors will resolve. The brake pedal does seem to have a bit of a pulse All these parts were due for pulling apart and some level of replacement, so I've been taking a baby step approach at this. Anyway, while I had the rotors off I did some inspection of the rack behind the boots, and that's why I have landed on this thread. With the wheels straight, if I grab the steering column at the u-joint just above the steering pinion and rock it ever so slightly back/forth (turning the steering wheel left/right basically), you can see the rack on the driver's side with a fair amount of play (axial play, I believe this is called). Is this normal? Can it be adjusted on these vans if too much slop? Pull it out and replace, or adjust while bolted in??? I'm having a hard time finding answers on this one, and I'd hate to swap out the entire component since it has no leaks.

The rack rebuilding threads seem to concentrate on seals rather than tolerance/play so I'm hoping somebody can give me a "yeah, that's normal/expected" or a "holy smokes, there's your vibration, pull that thing out of there" or "just adjust it up a bit by doing..." kind of thing.

Thanks so much for taking the few minutes to review and feedback!


Link

[/youtube]

[Butcher]

Yeah, that rack is worn out. I certainly would focus your attention to that before I swapped out any more parts.

[AndyBees]

Did you check the "ball" at the end of the tie rod where it screws onto the rack? (both sides)

Also, how many miles on your rack?

Edit: If that rack is worn-out it is likely the result of whatever was causing the shake(s). Neither of the two racks I've rebuilt showed any signs of being worn.
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[VanPerson]

@Butcher - thx! I've seen where those have some play on other vehicles, so didn't know if I should be concerned (ie. drop $225-$425) or pray that my rotor/caliper fix will suffice. I'll know for certain tonight after I'm done with the passenger side brake stuff. All those other parts needed attention, so I'm happy to have dealt with some items that I'd been putting off either way. I can certainly imagine it could be the culprit. Wish there was on on-vehicle adjustment there though since nothing is leaking.

@AndyBees - I believe you're referring to the "inner" tie rod ends. Those have no play at all, it's all between the rack and the housing. Not the rack bushings either. 190k miles on the vehicle, not certain if that is the original rack or not. Could be.

If there is no gear adjustment, then I like the idea of a new rack, fresh fluid, whiteline rack bushings, and hey, add in some anti-roll (sway) bar and drop link bushings and I might not make my wife sick driving through the mountains anymore!!!

Thx everyone!

[AndyBees]

One more question..

How much of that movement is transferred to the four rubber mount bushings of the rack?

I'm sort of surprised it is not leaking fluid.

Oh, and remember to use AT fluid, not PS fluid.
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[VanPerson]

[ALIKA T3]

It is way too much play, crazy it was not leaking!

Broken or worn Teflon bushings, but I don't see how it would have come to this point without grit which would have been causing a leak.

I would open it, something must have come loose somehow....
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[VanPerson]

[ALIKA T3]

Ok, let us know!
No it's not the radius causing that since the tie rods have ball joints, it is an odd case you have here
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[Vanagon Nut]

I'm replacing my U joint. It's quite rusty and dirty, hard to see details.

To confirm:

There is NOT a nut holding the U joint to the shaft on power steering rack right?

i.e. I only have to remove the nut and bolt to get the U joint of that shaft?

Thanks

Neil.

[AndyBees]

There is a bolt that slides thru and mates to the shaft where a flat spot has been milled. (each end)

If you mark the relationship with a scribe, it will make it go back much easier. EDIT: Duh, I guess this doesn't apply since you are replacing the joint.

I had no clue these were "one time use" only bolts. Wow!
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[Vanagon Nut]

[AndyBees]

If I remember correctly, the nut is a crimped style lock nut. I cannot imagine why it would need to be replaced.

A castle nut would require drilling a hole in the bolt.
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[Vanagon Nut]