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Surfy Murphy Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2013 Posts: 139 Location: Brooklyn, New York
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Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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Jon_slider, thanks for taking the time to do the comparison! I'm going to shoot for close to stock speeds with RP gears to match the tires and I've pretty much settled on the long term goal of topping out at 225/75 R16, but I'm not buying bigger tires until I get my transmission back.
I guess what I'm wondering at this point, with 225/75 R16 tires:
1) On the low end... For Granny, 1st and 2nd is there any advantage to 5.43 vs. 5.86 RP? I've heard that the RP gears get less durable as you get closer to 6.17. Both 5.43 and 5.86 are very close to stock gearing (stock tires) with 225/75 R16 according to Derek's calculator. Would it be better to go with 5.43 to keep the RP gears bigger and avoid future transmission breakdown? Or would it 5.83 be better for lower granny? Would going from 2nd to 3rd become an issue with an EJ25?
2) On the high end... Is there an ideal gearing for the EJ25, different than the waterboxer? Am I to understand that the subaru and wbx gas engines should be geared the same in 3rd and 4th for best gas milage, hill climbing etc.?
I'm currently running 225/70 R16 wheels (not 215s), a 4.86 RP and a .81 4th, waterboxer with dual carbs. I know it's not ideal in granny and 1st, but it feels fine shifting through the gears. I wonder how it would be different with an EJ25 (not installed yet).
My current setup feels great in 4th gear, mostly because I can pass people in the right lane. New Yorkers mostly drive like they've just escaped from a mental institution. If you don't live here, or maybe someplace like Chicago, you probably have no idea, but it really helps to be able to comfortably cruise at 75 mph+ on the freeway. Otherwise it can feel pretty unsafe. Most drivers just don't cut you any slack and will narrow the gap if you don't look like you're going to ram them when you change lanes. This made right lane driving the only option until I did dual carbs.
I don't have any strong opinions about gearing in 3rd and 4th, but .81 and 225/70 R16s feel fine in nyc traffic right now. I'd love to hear other arguments for an ideal 3rd and 4th gearing in different conditions, especially with an EJ25. Best gas milage? Power in different conditions? Ideal revs for the engine? _________________ 1987 Orly Blue Sunroof Syncro, EJ25 |
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kbeefy Samba Member
Joined: March 10, 2006 Posts: 600 Location: Central Oregon
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Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 6:26 pm Post subject: |
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I'd suggest keep stock 3/4 gears. As Jon has repeated, if you want it to feel right with 30" tires you should regear, unless maybe you have the extra torque of a diesel to pull the larger tires.
IMHO, 5.43 gears aren't a big enough improvement to justify the effort and expense of changing R&P, unless you happen to have a front diff and trans with them already. It's only about a 10% difference.
I think it was mentioned the 5.86 are harder to find, so thats probably an issue.
60 mph is about 2900 rpm with my setup as described. On flat ground with no headwind thats fine, but a slight incline becomes a challenge, and most hills are 3rd gear unless I'm over 65mph. The 2.5 powerband really kicks in above 3k. _________________ 86 syncro CHC, NorthWesty subbie 2.5, decoupler, locker, custom interior, 225/75r16 Duratrack's on CLK's, Toyo cabin heater, ARB fridge, 300w Zamp Solar, Gowesty bumpers/skid/rails, Fiama awning
'86 Syncro Westy. Stock for now.
2000 F350 7.3 CC LB 11' Northland Cabover
2006 Subbie OBXT
2002 Tacoma DoubleCab 4x4
1969 Mustang Basket Case 351c/FMX/9
http://kbeefy.blogspot.com/ |
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Jon_slider Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2007 Posts: 5091 Location: Santa Cruz, Crowdifornia
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Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 7:06 pm Post subject: |
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Surfy Murphy wrote: |
with 225/75 R16 tires:
1) On the low end... For Granny, 1st and 2nd is there any advantage to 5.43 vs. 5.86 RP?
lets compare tallness
225x75x16 tire, 4.86 R&P 13% tall (not so good for crawling, tolerable on highway)
225x75x16 tire, 5.43 R&P 3% tall (reasonable crawling, reasonable highway)
225x75x16 tire, 5.83 R&P - 4% Short! (advantage crawling, disadvantage highway, so recommend changing to a 0.82 4th = 0% tall, and 4% shift gap from 3 to 4)
> I've heard that the RP gears get less durable as you get closer to 6.17.
true but I suggest you not prioritize that theoretical concept in your decision about driveability and effective tire, ring and pinion, and gearing combinations.. Just dont drive like a maniac.. abuse is abuse, no matter what the equipment..
Would it be better to go with 5.43 to keep the RP gears bigger and avoid future transmission breakdown? Or would it 5.83 be better for lower granny? Would going from 2nd to 3rd become an issue with an EJ25?
5.43 is better with stock 4th
5.83 is better offroad, and with .82 4th. I dont think a 4% gap is to worry about, no change to 3rd.
think about what percentage of time you drive offroad. If offroad crawling is the main priority, go 5.83. The downside on pavement is the 5.83 makes 2nd a bit more high revved, for example at the 25mph reference.
2) On the high end... Is there an ideal gearing for the EJ25, different than the waterboxer? Am I to understand that the subaru and wbx gas engines should be geared the same in 3rd and 4th for best gas milage, hill climbing etc.?
my opinion is to use the same stock gearing spacing with a wbx and a subaru, IF the tires are the same size and the ring and pinions are the same
I only get into changing 4th gear IF the ring and pinion is shorter than a 4.86, AND the tire choice produces -%, short gearing, in 4th..
if the shift gap to get a reasonable cruising speed is larger than single digit, then I look to change the gear before that, to split the gap.
there are only a few logical gear combos.
you are on the right track by choosing your tire size first, then getting the ring and pinion to match it, and lastly to consider gear spreading.
stronger motors dont help with wide shift gaps. stronger motors do tolerate sligtly, less than double digit percentage, tire oversizing without gearing changes, but tall gearing is a compromise between offroad crawling and highway cruising
I'm currently running 225/70 R16 wheels (not 215s), a 4.86 RP and a .81 4th, waterboxer with dual carbs.
the tire is 28.5", the gearing is 12% tall in all gears except 4th is 18% tall.
I know it's not ideal in granny and 1st, but it feels fine shifting through the gears. I wonder how it would be different with an EJ25 (not installed yet).
it will be the same in all gears, the gearing speeds and rpms dont change when you change motors and horsepower
the shift gap or gear spacing also does not change when you change motors
what changes when you get more power, is you get more acceleration, and more torque, so you can force your power to drive a wheel that is slightly oversized, with brute force. This puts a greater load on the tranny.
since you will still be 12% and 18% tall with the 2.5, and since you will have more power, you will probably abuse your tranny more with your subaru, than you can with your WBX..
adjusting the expectations of the nut at the wheel to avoid breaking equipment is a primary criteria
I'd love to hear other arguments for an ideal 3rd and 4th gearing in different conditions, especially with an EJ25. Best gas milage? Power in different conditions? Ideal revs for the engine?
you are currently running double digit tall gearing, that I would not be comfortable with. I try very hard not to exceed stock gearing by double digits. I suspect I tolerate much higher rpm than you currently are accustomed to, and your subaru can also tolerate higher rpm than your wbx. So to me, cruising on highway at 71mph@4000 rpm is totally fine, its within the power band of the gas motors, and they can run all day at that rpm without issue…
but then YMMV, these are just my offroad syncro based perspectives. I did work very hard to find gearing that spans both crawling and highway speeds of 70mph.. but you're talking about 18% tall gearing and 75mph speeds.. I don't have any experience with that kind of tallness. I do at times go 75, as you say, because it seems unsafe to go slower than the flow, but Im fine being at 4500rpm if necessary to pass people.. though, I really don't think thats a preferred use for a lifted, large tire, offroad use syncro |
_________________ My Soapboxes: Inflation; Handling; Gearing; Decoupling; Swepco |
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Jon_slider Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2007 Posts: 5091 Location: Santa Cruz, Crowdifornia
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Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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kbeefy wrote: |
IMHO, 5.43 gears aren't a big enough improvement to justify the effort and expense of changing R&P |
I agree a 5.86 is better for crawling
a quick seach shows GW offers a 5.83
http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4391
"These 100% brand new ring and pinion sets are a GoWesty exclusive! Fits the rear of any Syncro Vanagon.
4.86 ratio: This is the stock ratio for all North American Syncro vehicles.
5.43 ratio: This ratio is 12% lower than the original 4.86:1 ratio. This means you can increase the size of your tires by 12% and keep the same overall gear ratios.
5.83 ratio: This ratio is 20% lower than the original 4.86:1 ratio. This means you can increase the size of your tires by 20% and maintain the same overall gear ratios.
6.17 ratio: This ratio is 27% lower than the original 4.86:1 ratio. This means you can increase the size of your tires by 27% and maintain the same overall gear ratios.
If you don't already have a lower ratio FRONT ring & pinion set for your front differential, you'll need it"
so, a 5.83 with the OPs current 28.5" tire and stock gears would be -6% short, gearing. Great offroad, but he will hate it compared to the +18% hes used to on highway.. until he modifies his RPM expectations
here is a possible gearing scenario with a 5.83 with a 225x75x16, with great crawling and gears spread out to make 4th tall like the OP is used to (shift gaps are unavoidable, but they have been minimized by including chaging 2nd)
I consider this extremely tall gearing in 4th, but it matches the OP's current NYCFlyer
5.83 with a 225x75x16, 1.18 2nd, 1.08 3rd, .73 4th.. this setup is -4% in granny, and +17% in 4th. There are shift gaps, as with any gear spreading, in this case some of the gaps are 8 and 9%, on the high side.. but livable by using more rpm before shifting.. the subaru has no problem with high rpm
however, I would go with this less extremely tall 4th combination
5.83 with a 225x75x16, stock 2nd (saves money and may be hard to find a 1.88 ), 1.17 3rd, .77 4th.. this setup is -4% in granny, and +6% in 4th. The shift gaps are only 5%. If you look back at the Reventlos configuration, you will see this one is very similar in that it has granny that is single digit percent below stock, for better crawling offroad, and has single digit taller than stock 4th, for a very modest speed increase.. recommended... _________________ My Soapboxes: Inflation; Handling; Gearing; Decoupling; Swepco |
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Rjhdog Samba Member
Joined: February 14, 2013 Posts: 369 Location: CA
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Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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For what it's worth.
I run 225 75/16 bfg a/t with steel mefro wheels with stock 4.86 gearing. I have 16" trailing arms with a suby 3.0 h6. No tranny issues after 70k miles!
It drives great on highway and does just fine for non-extreme off-road.
Jon has far more knowledge in this area and I would listen closely to his advice.
I spent a good couple hours with him talking the difference in a few psi last year. He knows his stuff.
Not sure if my higher horsepower engine makes a difference in all of this, but I am happy with my combo unless Jon strongly suggested I try something else .
The one thing I would love to improve would be gas mileage but I would likely sacrifice some things if I changed tire size. |
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Jon_slider Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2007 Posts: 5091 Location: Santa Cruz, Crowdifornia
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Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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Rjhdog wrote: |
For what it's worth.
I run 225 75/16 bfg a/t with steel mefro wheels with stock 4.86 gearing. I have 16" trailing arms with a suby 3.0 h6. No tranny issues after 70k miles!
It drives great on highway and does just fine for non-extreme off-road. …
Not sure if my higher horsepower engine makes a difference in all of this, but I am happy with my combo…
The one thing I would love to improve would be gas mileage but I would likely sacrifice some things if I changed tire size. |
thanks for the very interesting, to me, exploration
Your gearing is 15% tall
at 70mph you're at 3400 rpm, and you have 212 horsepower to make up for being 600 rpm lower on the power band than stock gearing.
offroad your minimum speed is 15% faster than stock
Your motor has 6 cylinders, 212 horsepower, no turbo, so no lag, and tons of low end torque in a boxer opposed design, and it fits higher up, with more ground clearance.. Whats not to love? There are reasons why people who are in the know, go with the H6, you scored dude! Whats your vans name?
Recently I learned from Hans and smiro, that there IS a configuration of tall gearing that does increase fuel mileage, but it involves things that don't happen in a syncro.. Hans says tall ring and pinion with small tires, increases mileage with automatic Two Wheel Drive transmissions.
other Size Considerations
A 225x75x16 weighs 50% more than the 215, and on a longer lever. Taller tires reduce gas mileage by increasing air under the vehicle on highway, and increase ride height offroad, which is good, but also raises center of gravity, which affects handling and body roll on highway curves. 225 tires being wider also create more drag on highway, which is not good, otoh more traction offroad, which is good.
the 225 BFG is 29.3", the 215 is 28". the 225 is also built with stronger sidewalls and higher load rating, hence the added 11 pounds weight. strong is good offroad. 11 pounds heavier tires is bad for highway fuel mileage.
Since you have proven that your motor and tire and gearing are working to take you to awesome places, Im making mental note that 15% tall gearing with 212 horsepower works great for family travel and mild and safe offroading to wonderful adventures. No frame twisting, boulder hopping, Hells Revenge, sort of setup. Might not do Truck Hill at Syncrofest, but then, who needs to risk rolling a family wagon at a 4wheeling park anyway?
More like take my Whole Family to Baja and Blow Everybodys Mind with how Awesome it is to have a reliable, powerful motor, in a well built, fully outfitted, expedition syncro, and then actually Use It to do all kinds of Super Cool Stuff, and post pictures on the internet, and go to syncrofest and tell all my friends about it, and, Yes!!! this is working!
Knowing that the OP currently runs 18% tall gearing and it works for his needs, and you happily run 15% tall gearing. For your needs, leave your transaxle gearing stock, slap on those 225x75x16 BFGs and Post Selfies in Baja! It does not matter which motor you have. If you are comfortable with 15% tall gearing in any motor, your rpm and gearing speed feedback loop will be the same.
So at this point I do not think the OP, for his driving style, needs new ring and pinions, does not need to change 3rd and 4th. You made a great choice, the subie 2.5 has 170 horses. Just run it with your current tires and transaxle.. its perfect, youre already used to that setup. Dont change anything _________________ My Soapboxes: Inflation; Handling; Gearing; Decoupling; Swepco |
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syncrodoka Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2005 Posts: 12005 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 11:15 pm Post subject: |
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4.86 is a 34:7 (Ring:pinion)
5.43 is a 38:7
5.83 is a 35:6
6.17 is a 37:6
The 6 tooth pinion gears are seen as weaker and weren't recommended by daryl to me.
More motor doesn't compensate for being overgeared the penalty is typically gas mileage and/or speed up grades. |
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Rjhdog Samba Member
Joined: February 14, 2013 Posts: 369 Location: CA
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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Love it Jon.
Thanks for your kind and wise words. I will keep it as is...
Cheers,
Jon_slider wrote: |
Rjhdog wrote: |
For what it's worth.
I run 225 75/16 bfg a/t with steel mefro wheels with stock 4.86 gearing. I have 16" trailing arms with a suby 3.0 h6. No tranny issues after 70k miles!
It drives great on highway and does just fine for non-extreme off-road. …
Not sure if my higher horsepower engine makes a difference in all of this, but I am happy with my combo…
The one thing I would love to improve would be gas mileage but I would likely sacrifice some things if I changed tire size. |
thanks for the very interesting, to me, exploration
Your gearing is 15% tall
at 70mph you're at 3400 rpm, and you have 212 horsepower to make up for being 600 rpm lower on the power band than stock gearing.
offroad your minimum speed is 15% faster than stock
Your motor has 6 cylinders, 212 horsepower, no turbo, so no lag, and tons of low end torque in a boxer opposed design, and it fits higher up, with more ground clearance.. Whats not to love? There are reasons why people who are in the know, go with the H6, you scored dude! Whats your vans name?
Recently I learned from Hans and smiro, that there IS a configuration of tall gearing that does increase fuel mileage, but it involves things that don't happen in a syncro.. Hans says tall ring and pinion with small tires, increases mileage with automatic Two Wheel Drive transmissions.
other Size Considerations
A 225x75x16 weighs 50% more than the 215, and on a longer lever. Taller tires reduce gas mileage by increasing air under the vehicle on highway, and increase ride height offroad, which is good, but also raises center of gravity, which affects handling and body roll on highway curves. 225 tires being wider also create more drag on highway, which is not good, otoh more traction offroad, which is good.
the 225 BFG is 29.3", the 215 is 28". the 225 is also built with stronger sidewalls and higher load rating, hence the added 11 pounds weight. strong is good offroad. 11 pounds heavier tires is bad for highway fuel mileage.
Since you have proven that your motor and tire and gearing are working to take you to awesome places, Im making mental note that 15% tall gearing with 212 horsepower works great for family travel and mild and safe offroading to wonderful adventures. No frame twisting, boulder hopping, Hells Revenge, sort of setup. Might not do Truck Hill at Syncrofest, but then, who needs to risk rolling a family wagon at a 4wheeling park anyway?
More like take my Whole Family to Baja and Blow Everybodys Mind with how Awesome it is to have a reliable, powerful motor, in a well built, fully outfitted, expedition syncro, and then actually Use It to do all kinds of Super Cool Stuff, and post pictures on the internet, and go to syncrofest and tell all my friends about it, and, Yes!!! this is working!
Knowing that the OP currently runs 18% tall gearing and it works for his needs, and you happily run 15% tall gearing. For your needs, leave your transaxle gearing stock, slap on those 225x75x16 BFGs and Post Selfies in Baja! It does not matter which motor you have. If you are comfortable with 15% tall gearing in any motor, your rpm and gearing speed feedback loop will be the same.
So at this point I do not think the OP, for his driving style, needs new ring and pinions, does not need to change 3rd and 4th. You made a great choice, the subie 2.5 has 170 horses. Just run it with your current tires and transaxle.. its perfect, youre already used to that setup. Dont change anything |
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Jon_slider Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2007 Posts: 5091 Location: Santa Cruz, Crowdifornia
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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Rjhdog wrote: |
suby 3.0 h6. (212 ponies!) No tranny issues after 70k miles! |
substituting horsepower for leverage, a devils advocate position
For sake of illustration, lets visualize Vanagon gearing changes using the model of a seesaw.
Assume that the stock setup has both sides of the seesaw, beyond the midpoint, at equal distances, like a normal seesaw. Lets say this equal lever arm length condition is the baseline from which to gauge changes.
Now lets take the example of using 225x75x16 tires which are 15% taller than stock, and overlay that on the seesaw model, by making one end of the seesaw 15% Longer than the other one.
In that scenario it will take 15% more weight on the short end, to move any given load on the long end.
Imagine the motor is on the short end, the tires are on the long end
so, for sake of illustration, when we use 15% tall gearing, we are asking our motor to push 15% harder. This increases heat, pressure, load, and potentially increases wear. However, if the nut at the wheel is properly adjusted, so they do not use excessive applications of power, all will be well, for at least 70k miles of Joy, before more wallet must be applied _________________ My Soapboxes: Inflation; Handling; Gearing; Decoupling; Swepco |
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noganav Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2006 Posts: 1236 Location: San Diego CA
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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215x70x16. The sweet spot. |
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Surfy Murphy Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2013 Posts: 139 Location: Brooklyn, New York
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 9:13 pm Post subject: |
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Down the rabbit hole and back out again.
I'm leaning towards something like Christopher's setup after the pinion discussion. 5.43 with stock 3rd and 4th or maybe .81 4th. That gets me the stronger 7 tooth pinion gear, and pretty close to stock for my current 225/70 r16, not too bad for 225/75 R16. Does anyone have any suggestions for freeway cruising RPM with the EJ25?
Here's the van with 225/70 R16 Geolanders, Audi Allroads. It'll be Metallic Orly Blue in the next couple weeks. Bottom is sprayed with Wurth undercoating, inside with lizard skin sound and thermal. Dave from Slawbuilt in South Jersey is doing the paint for me in his free time and I've taken forever on choosing a color so it's been an all winter project. I'm really looking forward to getting my van back.
_________________ 1987 Orly Blue Sunroof Syncro, EJ25 |
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Waldi Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2014 Posts: 1752 Location: Germany
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 12:44 am Post subject: |
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insyncro wrote: |
4.86 R&P are the strongest and that is why I use them. |
Did i miss something ?
In my opinion the 5,43 is the "strongest"
Same teeth on the pinion but more on the ring.
I drive 205/80-16 with 100hp AAZ, 4,85x0,82 with empty van.
With loaded van 215/75-15
and with trailer 215/65-16, which are a bit smaler than the 185-14 |
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Surfy Murphy Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2013 Posts: 139 Location: Brooklyn, New York
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 7:51 am Post subject: |
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I found this and it made me curious about choosing a 4th gear...
Its brake specific fuel consumption for the ej22. Couldn't find a chart for the ej25. Assuming we're pushing way harder on the gas than a more aerodynamic forester/outback the chart should still apply for fuel consumption at least for vans with an ej22. Wouldn't we just be reading it from a different part of the chart (the more torque part)?
I would think you'd want to overlap that 180 at the top of the chart with where you get the least aerodynamic drag if you want better milage, or at least the speed zone where you drive the most. I could be totally misunderstanding this, but I think I might have just made an argument for stock gearing in 4th. _________________ 1987 Orly Blue Sunroof Syncro, EJ25
Last edited by Surfy Murphy on Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:32 am; edited 2 times in total |
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:07 am Post subject: |
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Waldi wrote: |
insyncro wrote: |
4.86 R&P are the strongest and that is why I use them. |
Did i miss something ?
In my opinion the 5,43 is the "strongest"
Same teeth on the pinion but more on the ring.
I drive 205/80-16 with 100hp AAZ, 4,85x0,82 with empty van.
With loaded van 215/75-15
and with trailer 215/65-16, which are a bit smaler than the 185-14 |
Less material = weaker
Just my opinion and my H6s, all with 200+ HP have not had any trans related issues in many many miles...all 4.86. |
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Rjhdog Samba Member
Joined: February 14, 2013 Posts: 369 Location: CA
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:29 am Post subject: |
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This is interesting.
How many miles are we talking on your trannies paired with H6's Dylan? Do you know what tire size you run on them?
insyncro wrote: |
Waldi wrote: |
insyncro wrote: |
4.86 R&P are the strongest and that is why I use them. |
Did i miss something ?
In my opinion the 5,43 is the "strongest"
Same teeth on the pinion but more on the ring.
I drive 205/80-16 with 100hp AAZ, 4,85x0,82 with empty van.
With loaded van 215/75-15
and with trailer 215/65-16, which are a bit smaler than the 185-14 |
Less material = weaker
Just my opinion and my H6s, all with 200+ HP have not had any trans related issues in many many miles...all 4.86. |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17111 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:41 am Post subject: |
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In theory to fit 4 more teeth to the ring gear since the diameter remains the same, the teeth would need to be physically smaller in dimension to fit 38 teeth. _________________ ☮️ |
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 9:33 am Post subject: |
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Rjhdog wrote: |
This is interesting.
How many miles are we talking on your trannies paired with H6's Dylan? Do you know what tire size you run on them?
insyncro wrote: |
Waldi wrote: |
insyncro wrote: |
4.86 R&P are the strongest and that is why I use them. |
Did i miss something ?
In my opinion the 5,43 is the "strongest"
Same teeth on the pinion but more on the ring.
I drive 205/80-16 with 100hp AAZ, 4,85x0,82 with empty van.
With loaded van 215/75-15
and with trailer 215/65-16, which are a bit smaler than the 185-14 |
Less material = weaker
Just my opinion and my H6s, all with 200+ HP have not had any trans related issues in many many miles...all 4.86. |
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Interestingly enough, my first H6, EG33 has over 100,000 on the conversion, Small Car parts initially with adapter plate to date the build and now RJES with 240mm flywheel and clutch pack.
The locker had 140,000 on it and was never opened when the Syncro was converted, 1991 Syncro base model.
So total miles on a non rebuilt, 4.86 R&P + stock gearing trans....240,000 currently.
When I started on going conversations with Boston Bob and Daryl many many years ago, we discussed this van's transformation and one thing was evident from day one and all three involved...Swepco in the trans and momentum driving, also a topic we discussed and all practiced, would keep the transmission from coming apart at the seams.
This transmission sees limited summer miles now and has my first attempt at a trans fluid cooler attached, it works well.
My vans have seen most available tire sizes since my rim collection is vast.
I have never counted BenTs collection, but from memory he has a bunch.
He inspired me to start finding the more rare rims and collect those.
I love 16"s, own 17", 18" sets, but keep coming back to 15s and really enjoying them and 215/75/15 tires.
To be even more specific and try to answer the question posted, R9 ET23 with BFG Mud Terrain or All Terrain are really my most preferred for everyday use on a Syncro van, WBX or larger.
I see 50/50, pavement/dirt roads, varying conditions, tow an aluminum 12' utility trailer often and average 40mph.
The huge 16" tires I have owned, Duratracs, Nokian, Mud & All Terrain BFGs, Geolanders, Khumos....225/75/16, 235/75/16...Bottomline, I do not need a tire that large, nor all of the other changes one must make to match up.
So to stay in line with the original question asked, no going big is not worth it in my experiences. |
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clift_d Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2012 Posts: 265 Location: Hackney innit, UK
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 10:00 am Post subject: |
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noganav wrote: |
215x70x16. The sweet spot. |
Absolutely! We have BFG ATs in that size and they give us a cruise speed of around 65mph cruise at approx 2900rpm with our 5.43 final output ratio. Perfect. _________________ 1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker syncro |
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crazyvwvanman Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008 Posts: 9920 Location: Orbiting San Diego
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 10:07 am Post subject: |
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Yes, that size matches up very well with 5.43 as does the size 215/75R15 that is very close to the same diameter.
As an aside. I have long wondered if anyone has managed to put 215/70R16 into the front spare well? If so, what was needed? I have put lots of 215/75R15 spares in there with mods.
Mark
clift_d wrote: |
noganav wrote: |
215x70x16. The sweet spot. |
Absolutely! We have BFG ATs in that size and they give us a cruise speed of around 65mph cruise at approx 2900rpm with our 5.43 final output ratio. Perfect. |
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noganav Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2006 Posts: 1236 Location: San Diego CA
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 10:14 am Post subject: |
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crazyvwvanman wrote: |
Yes, that size matches up very well with 5.43 as does the size 215/75R15 that is very close to the same diameter.
As an aside. I have long wondered if anyone has managed to put 215/70R16 into the front spare well? If so, what was needed? I have put lots of 215/75R15 spares in there with mods.
Mark
clift_d wrote: |
noganav wrote: |
215x70x16. The sweet spot. |
Absolutely! We have BFG ATs in that size and they give us a cruise speed of around 65mph cruise at approx 2900rpm with our 5.43 final output ratio. Perfect. |
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I'm going to try that soon. I've got the VanCafe carrier, just haven't messed around with it yet. I thought you had done it already which is what made me want to give it a try! |
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