Front heater core cut off valve. Is there such a thing?

[Chuck77]

Before you tell me to check the search, stickys, and the Bentley let me tell you that I already have.

Is there a cut off valve (similar to the one next to the rear heater core) up front? How do I get to it. ( I am aware of the exploded view in the Bentley, but what that shows and what is actually in my van are two different things.) I have had the cover behind the shifter off for a day now, and have taken out the glovebox. I didn't find the valve, but I did find a 3 ounce can of Jovan Musk for women, a Bonnie Raitt cassette tape, an old golf ball and nearly 100 individually wrapped toothpicks. I am having front heater issues, with the front heater not putting out the amount of heat it used to. I was thinking about adjusting the valve to see if I could get more flow in and out of the front heater core.

Am I on track here, or barking up the wrong tree?
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1988 Vanagon GL 7 passenger, 15" Mercedes 8 hole alloys with Nokian Hakka's (SOLD)

[Waldemar Sikorski]

Nope, that's what the control lever is for.

[allsierra123]

I think Terry Kay sells one if I remember right.
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95 GMC Yukon 6.5 TD 2 Door Tow pig/ Daily driver.
91 Vanagon GL. 1.9TD Conversion Sold
81 Vw rabbit 1.6 Diesel. Sold

[Terry Kay]

I have an accessory heater valve available that would replace the faulty stock valve--and it will last a long time.

What you have going on is the stock valve is stuck shut or the cable is slipping on the retaining clamp.

Drop the spare tire, under the front of the Van, and look up behind the radiator--way up in the tunnel.

There you will find the stock valve which is a bitch to adjust the cable or replace.

Just take a look at it and you'll agree---

The Bonnie Rait tape alone was well worth the digging up top inside the Van--- ~8 )-
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T.K.

[Volksaholic]

[woggs1]

[Terry Kay]

If the heat won't come on, it sure sounds like the cable is still outa wack--

Yep--the shut off valve hasta come out or ya have to be diging up there again to get the cable properly adjusted.

What a pain.

This exactly why I came up with the auxllary cabin mounted shut off valve.
No groaping under the Van--and I know when it's on or off for sure.
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T.K.

[woggs1]

[bucko]

[Terry Kay]

The miniscule spring steel cable retainer on the valve is notorious for not holding the cable tight on the valve--take a look at it.
This will pretty much give you an idea what your dealing with, and what to expect.

There is a cable retainer up behind the control lever assembly, but nothing your going to be able to adjust to get more coolant through the valve.

Take a look and verify the cable set up behind the cable controls.

The reason I came up with the interior mounted accessory manual valve set up is I got tired of verifying if the cheap, cheesey, stock valve & cable was working or not.

Now I know for sure when the heat is on or not---without dropping the spare,& groaping under the Van & adjusting a cable & clip that I knew darn well was not going to stay put.
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T.K.

[Chuck77]

Cable connections are good, plan on taking a gander underneath the van and above the clamshell this weekend. Too damn cold out here to lay on the concrete, I could freeze off something I might need later. Cool idea about the valve Terry, do your kits come with instructions on how to install them, and then how to set the original valve wide open? I imagine it can't be too hard, but anything has got to be better than what the Bentley shows... Thanks again for the insight.

JM
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1988 Vanagon GL 7 passenger, 15" Mercedes 8 hole alloys with Nokian Hakka's (SOLD)

[Terry Kay]

It's a remote manual valve and two stainless clamps.

Installation is simple;

Pop off the heater cover in front of the shift lever, you'll see a horizontal hose.

Clamp off 3-4" on either side of a selected center point, cut out that portion of the heater hose--install & clamp down the valve.

If you don't like that location ,open up the glove box--you'll see another heater hose in the upper L/H corner.
Put the valve there.

I've had guy's tell me they've mounted it in back, front, anywhere in the heater hose under the Van--

Location isn't really important, as is convienance.

Mount the valve where you want it to be---just as long as you can make sure it's either all the way open or closed.

How do you know when when the stock valve is all the way open?
Simple.
When the lever is at the end of it's travel --you''ll be able to se this when you looking at the cable & clamp onder the Van--the cable will pull closed, but will slip when it goes to open--this is the way the cable should be shoved to open all the way.
Or--the best bet would be to slip a 5/8's nipple in there and take it out---no accidental moving it.
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T.K.

[xlr8r]

[Terry Kay]

No.
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T.K.

[markz2004]

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=237271&highlight=hot+foot

here is a thread where someone put in a valve. A different product from TK, but others I know have used a similar 'home brew' valve with success.

I plan on doing something similar soon.
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87 Westy, 250k GW 2.4 - 2.0 , 16" wheels

[Vanagon Nut]

I put one in. Found a dental type mirror handy for seeing if molded heater hose on all the way. Home Doppler guy said valve rated to 170F. We'll see how well it holds up. At least it doesn't leak like the new VW valve I installed did.

I found the barbed ends of valve had (to my eye) *just* enough purchase into hoses. Something to consider when buying a valve.

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1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[?Waldo?]

I've adjusted several heater valves without removing them. Not sure what the ruckus is about. It's not exactly comfortable, but not hard. FWIW, EITHER end of the cable can be adjusted. Regardless, the spare will need to be removed to access the valve and make sure the lever is in the proper position so it's simpler to adjust it there rather than pull the instrument cluster as well. I usually set the lever to almost closed at the dash, open the sheath clamp on the valve, move the valve lever to the fully closed position, tighten sheath clamp. The little clamp is very easy to bend slightly to create extra tension on the sheath and prevent slipping. I have to concur that the stock valves are remarkably cheap in construction. I had a new one start leaking within 6 months of installation once. I keep an extra in the glove box at this point.

Any auxiliary heater valve should be rated for full coolant temp which can reach 230°F. I'm surprised at the low rating that vanagon_nut found on the Depot ones as most brass ball valves are rated to above 250°F. Regardless, I'd place it in the return from the core rather than the supply as the temperature will be significantly cooler.

Andrew

[markz2004]

I installed mine yesterday much like the picture in the below thread.

I used a 1/2 inch brass ball valve and two brass barbed nipples. The nipples are 1/2 x 5/8 inch. The 1/2 portion threads into the valve and the 5/8 end is barbed. 5/8 inch slide into the existing hose with minimal effort. There is not a lot of friction. Although they would not fall out on their own. A clamp does all the work.

For someone who does this next, I would suggest holding the assembly up next to the hose prior to cutting. Use some chalk / pen to mark the section you want to take out (essentially the length of the ball valve). Remember that the barbed part will be inserted into the hose, so you will want to keep clear of a bend.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=237271&highlight=hot+foot
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87 Westy, 250k GW 2.4 - 2.0 , 16" wheels

[Vanagon Nut]

[Darren2dream]

Sorry to dredge up this old old thread but, my question seemed most applicable to what's been shared here so...

My front heater valve just started leaking, coolant now basically pours right out of screw where the metal arm is connected to the plastic valve.. The screw that holds that arm on to the valve seems to be fine, the arm moves to open/close the valve but not "too easily" with a tension that seems appropriate. This valve is about 2 months old replaced the old one when replacing all coolant hoses. I cant believe it's faulty so quickly

So, I'm leaving this next weekend for a trip and wont have time to purchase a valve and replace it. My control wire is bent anyhow, so the dash leaver doesn't move the darn valve arm much anyhow. (giving me heat all the time)

Question is: Can I use two hose clamps to clamp off the coolant going to the heater core and the hose which is leaving from it and drive it that way?? Will a hose clamp be able to withstand the pressure of the coolant? (I figure yes, since that wimpy valve is suppose to be able to stop it. ) I just cant let coolant hit the existing valve or it'll be leaking right out. I think the answer must be yes, it's only a heater core but, I want to make sure my thinking is clear because I spent the day rather disappointed that I was leaking coolant from a two month old part...

When I get back, I want to remove the existing valve, let coolant pass straight through and then install a control valve on the hose under the dash...
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84' Wolfsburg Westy GL 1.9 Manual