Starter

[Campy]

I have a 12 volt (12 volt system) standard starter in my 1963 camper. A few days ago, the starter would not work (nothing). In case it was jammed, I left the trans in first gear and pushed the bus back and forth and it worked. Today, the starter went dead after I had parked the bus for a while. Again, I pushed the body back and forth with the trans in first gear, and it took longer but the starter turned the engine over but, with my luck, the engine did not start right away. I tried to start the engine again but the starter was dead. I then turned the alternator pulley with my hands to make sure that the engine would turn, which it did. After that, the starter worked and the engine started. I drove it to Metric Auto and, of course, it started right up for the mechanic. What is going on? I have a lot of extra starters, including an autostick starter that I can use.
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Don't worry; be happy. (Baba)

[flemcadiddlehopper]

Just sounds like a worn out starter to me. Next time it happens for you, don't turn the engine over. Crawl under and give the starter a few good raps with a light hammer. Then try and start it. The rattle from the hammer usually help complete a circuit inside the starter, so it will crank. It could also be a tired starter solenoid. Many people hook up a relay to the starter solenoid to ensure that they are getting full voltage to the starter solenoid.

It is OK to do this on a starter that you are about to change or rebuild, not as a continual practice. i.e. don't rig up a hammer on a pendulum with a pull string to hit the starter while you sit in the driver's seat.

Gordo.
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Retrograde Garage. Vintage Aircooled, and others.

[Eric&Barb]

No sound, not even a click, means the solenoid is not working.

Reach up and slip on and off the smaller wire on the solenoid that comes from the ignition switch. Is it loose or real easy to slide off, and/or not shiny with corrosion? Tighten it up with a pair of pliers if need be with connector off the terminal and clean off corrosion, add a little dielectric grease to the connection parts to keep oxygen and thusly corrosion away for as long as possible.

Check that the wires on the ignition switch are connected tight and clean. Even then it could be your ignition switch is going bad.

Make sure both fasteners holding the starter are tight.

Ground strap from transaxle to body is clean on both ends, dielectric grease and tightened.
Do same with both battery cables on both ends. Do you have repair battery clamps that are also clamped onto the old battery cables? If so replace the cable/s with new end/s swedged on, for a gas tight connection there. If battery acid can get in between the clamp and cable it will corrode up in there and not allow a good connection.

Could even be you just need to replace the starter. Clean out and inspect the starter brush area in your good used starter. Are the brushes taller than the cages they sit in? If not need to get new brushes in there.

Polish up the two surfaces and dielectric grease where the starter seats against the transaxle for a good ground connection.

Have you cleaned, dielectric greased up the external fuse box connections? Also a must to solder up the internal connections inside the fuse box and headlight switch.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=608964&highlight=fuse+box+soldering

http://www.type2.com/library/electris/vw-hauptlicht-schalter.html

Just in case you have been using cheap aftermarket crimped on connection terminals.....

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=338938&highlight=uninsulated+crimper
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[Clara]

[Campy]

Thanks for some good advice.
Yesterday, I looked at and felt the wires on the solenoid and they were snug. I will pull off the small wire and push it back on the tab and see how it fits. I haven't checked the wire on the ignition switch, yet. I don't think that there is a bad cell in the battery because the battery has been fine once the starter works. I have extra starters that I can test to see if they are good, including an autostick starter. One thing that I hate doing is removing and installing a starter. It would help to be a midget.
Does anyone know why the outlet on bus fuel tanks were put on the passenger side of the tank, an inch or two from the solenoid, with the metal fuel line going way to the other side?
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Don't worry; be happy. (Baba)