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My project Doom Buggy
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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:30 pm    Post subject: My project Doom Buggy Reply with quote

So i aquired a buggy from a friend of mine a few years ago. i was all ready to get it on the road and have my fun with it. upon tearing down the motor i found ou that it was worn out. so 2 years later i have got a couple of motors to rebuild and so now it is time to get this project going

back when i got it i started the tear down but ended at the boat anchor engine so i will post the pics that i have to date and will update when i have new ones

this is what it looked like upon getting it

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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and a shot of the dash

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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and the start of the tear down

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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and the pan stripped of the body



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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and the removal of the floors
which was done tonight, the rest of the pictures where from 2 years ago


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i am planning on using some 1"x2" tubing to build the outer frame and then use some 1/8th or 1/16th sheet for the floor
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool Buggy! Except for the dash, it is a close Manx clone.

I suggest the 1/16 inch thick floor. 1/8 is way overkill and adds a lot of un-necessary weight. I use 14 Gauge metal for floors and it is a touch overkill, but works nicely. The 1 X 2 tubing does make a nice outside rail.
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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the info
but now i am wondering if i should go 1" up or 2" up
i am going to do some more research before i start making it
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cdnltded wrote:
thanks for the info
but now i am wondering if i should go 1" up or 2" up
i am going to do some more research before i start making it


2 X 2 boxed tubing makes a nice 1 inch lift on buggy. If you use the 0.120 wall, or 1/8 wall tubing, you do not need to sleeve the inside to keep from crushing the tubing.

A 1 inch lift is subtle and nice that it raises the windshield a touch and gets your eyes looking through the center of the windshield. And effectively sits you lower in the body.
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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks Joe
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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so i am preparing to fab up my floor pan and frame. i noticed on my body where it attaches to the there is a lip i am using 2x3 with the 2 being vertical and the 3 flat. do i just cut that little lip off?
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only use the 2 inch portion on the horizontal part so I can leave the factory lip. Plus, less sticking inside to interfere with seat tracks.

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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i started my floors tonight. got both the outer rails done, now i have to grind the up and cut them to length. way easier then i thought it would be

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impaleale
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work!
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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

impaleale wrote:
Nice work!


thanks
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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so
a hot, sharp piece of steel = one cut that hurts like hell but does not bleed

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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

anyway got some progress done tonight
got the outer frame smoothened out and tacked into place
i am really happy with the results, some fine tuning of course but a welder is only as good as his grinder
Laughing

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good!
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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
Looks good!


thank you Joe
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cdnltded
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so i have a question to those who have the knowledge
i have 2 different pedal assemblies
one is from the early 60's and one from the late 60s to early 70s
the second has the gas pedal on the assembly.
which one would be better to use.
and where do i locate the pedal stop with either
thanks in advance
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The older cast pedals look nicer and would be appropriate for your frame. I know the clutch cable location was moved inside the tunnel at least once. How far in from the edge the tube is located is the only critical dimension. If it is the same as both of your pedal assemblies then the one to use is up to you. I can say from experience that using a roller pedal in the early pedal assembly is a bit uncomfortable on long drives.
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