what are the symptoms of a bad front wheel bearing or cv joint?

[deepseeman]

So I was driving my 91 syncro to work this morning and noticed a type of clunk while going over bumps from the front left side. I got out and grabbed the top of the wheel and rocked it back and forth. It had some movement. More than I would consider normal. The front axles 2 years ago, by insurance work, but not the CV's. I took a tight turn and it seems to have a wobble. Would this be the bearing or CV joint?
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in the barn:

61' Double Cab-restored driver
91 SYNCRO

[blackglasspirate]

I'm sure the experts will weigh in on this shortly but that sounds more like a bearing than a CV to me, though I don't have experience with the syncro suspension. You mention doing the rocking test - did you do that again with the wheel off the ground, grabbing it at 12 and 6? If there's considerable play I'd suspect bearings.

The wobble you notice on turns, is that turning in either direction or just one? If you notice it it only one directly that could indicate a CV issue.

Of course, it could be something else. A loose bolt somewhere or something like that. Best to start with getting that wheel off the ground and see what things have play in them when being pushed/pulled.
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[zerotofifty]

Might be ball joints. one clue is it makes noise when going over bumps. other clue is the rocking wheel test you did, however the rocking wheel test might indicate wheel bearing issue. the rocking wheel test should be done both vertically and horizontally to determine if wheel bearing or ball joints. having a helper observe the ball joints will be helpful when doing this rocking test.

But clunking over a bump is usually not a wheel bearing symptom, rather ball joints (or worn out bushings)
A bit more diagnosis is required.

CV joints, no not likely.
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[Sodo]

CV joints don't generally clunk on bumps.

Take a look at your swaybar drop links. Sometimes they rust inside the rubber donuts, then the nut-end breaks off.
And the drop-link stub then clunks against the lower control arm.
See this thread: Syncro drop link

Better jack it up and find the reason.
If its the front axle bolt loose (the 258 ft-lbs nut) you may have already destroyed the hub which is NLA.

165 lbs x 1.5 feet = 247.5 ft lbs or, more nerdly,,,,,, 165 lbs x 1.56 feet = 258 ft lbs

All Syncro owners should check this torque, especially if the front axles have been worked on.
Anytime I’ve messed with front axles, and re-checked torque (later, few hundred miles) these nuts have been “less than 258”.
And every time I have re-torqued (after a few hundred miles) they remain tight after that 2nd re-torquing. 3rd time check has been 258.

The reason you have to do this is because VW assembled it with “D6 Locking compound” but the current custom is to use grease.
And Ive found that grease (perhaps oozes?) and the nut comes loose “once”.

You will need a 30mm socket, your body weight, and some simple math skills.
Or a “larger” torque wrench.

If you can borrow a torque wrench, consider checking the wrench calibration using the method above.
Its a perfect torque wrench calibration opportunity,

- large nut 12” above ground
- horizontal orientation
- general body-weight numbers
- (and perhaps) you being a physics/math nerd etc

.
Be diplomatic though, if you determine his tool to be out-of-adjustment.
Nerds lacking societal graces can lose tool privileges.

referring to the Upper Control Arm bolt that passes thru the two purple bushings

Recently I was riding in a traveler's Syncro.... that had a little front clunking.
We jacked the wheel off the ground and shook it.
The upper Control Arm bolt was visibly loose, sloppy loose.
The van had brand new ball-joints, indicating recent work.
You will need a large Allen wrench to hold it, perhaps 12mm hex?
It was an easy fix, but the van probably lost its wheel alignment setting.
The guy was 5,000 miles from home.....
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[deepseeman]

This is baffling. So I get home, jack the van up and give both tires the 12/6 & 9/3 test. no movement what so ever. I inspect the sway bar, the bushings and everything else. seem solid and fine to me. No extra movement anywhere. The only thing I did find, was that the CV joint, on the suspected sides boot is loose. The large band isnt tight enough and some of the grease has seeped out. All the balljoint boots appear to be solid with no rips either.
_________________
in the barn:

61' Double Cab-restored driver
91 SYNCRO

[DanHoug]

a loose shock absorber mount, either top (usually from a rubber spacer splitting) or bottom (the rubber isolation with a steel collar the big bolt goes thru), can result in a clunk on bumps.
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-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[deepseeman]