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58Dub
Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004
Posts: 1713
Location: Davison, MI
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 Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 6:12 am Post subject: head studs and turbos |
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Ive been looking at what head studs to get. The engine will be a turbo 2221 built on a Rocky Jennings type 5 case with 94 S/S pistons. I see quite a range of studs out there from Race Ware that are over $399 to CB that are under $100... and bugpack somewhere inbetween. Is this truly a case of cost equals quality?? I dont foresee the engine going over say...20lbs of boost.
Any personal experience and or feedback is appreciated.
Matt
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58 Beetle (now just a pile of parts in the corner)
60 Beetle (2221 turbo under construction)
70 Beetle Baja project |
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Chip 
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2008
Posts: 969
Location: Utah
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| Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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I use BP 8mm Raceware copies. I think they cost about 180. Haven't wounded one yet. Up to 25psi. Probably 325-350ish whp at that boost.
Last edited by Chip on Sat Apr 04, 2015 8:56 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Brian71
Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2005
Posts: 183
Location: Prineville, OR
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| Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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| I'm using CB chromoly 10mm studs on my 2332. 14 lbs of boost, 8.6:1 CR. No problems thus far. |
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Eaallred
Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2003
Posts: 5756
Location: West Valley City, Utah
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| Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 7:39 pm Post subject: |
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15 year old Bugpack 8mm chromo in my car. 24lbs boost so far
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Eric Allred
You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn. |
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esde
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Joined: October 20, 2007
Posts: 5966
Location: central rust belt
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clonebug
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005
Posts: 4027
Location: NW Washington
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| Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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Stock 8 mm studs here at 17 lbs for a year and hit 22 lbs for a week.
Will be back at the boost in a month or so.
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| vwracerdave wrote: |
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| Paul.H wrote: |
| That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month |
My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936 |
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madmike
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2005
Posts: 5292
Location: Atlanta,Michigan
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| Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 4:45 am Post subject: |
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8mm stock 15-18lbs 
Like the guy said that jumped from the plane with no chute
"So far so Good" 
_________________
'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works" |
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58Dub
Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004
Posts: 1713
Location: Davison, MI
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| Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 5:17 am Post subject: |
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thanks for the replys....so maybe the studs arent as big of an issue as I was thinking
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58 Beetle (now just a pile of parts in the corner)
60 Beetle (2221 turbo under construction)
70 Beetle Baja project |
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clonebug
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005
Posts: 4027
Location: NW Washington
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| Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 7:18 am Post subject: |
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| madmike wrote: |
8mm stock 15-18lbs
Like the guy said that jumped from the plane with no chute
"So far so Good" |
Guys in Sweden and Norway and Europe have been hitting 30 plus lbs on stock 8mm studs.
Here is a quote from Kalle who posts regularly on STF in the Forced Induction thread.
"quote"
Just do it!
I hope it is OK that I share some of the things I have learned over the years:
- 8mm head studs will be able to keep the heads where they belong be up to 3 bar of boost (44psi) Probably a little more with high quality head studs like RaceWare. Torque to 30nm (87mm sylinders)
- CB 044 heads with 40x35 valves is enough to reach your goal of 100hp/cylinder after a little port`n polish job.
- Intake design and manifolds makes all the difference.
- You will have to sacrifice a little low end torque for high end HP.
- Use CB650 or equal valve springs, especially if you plan to use ALS
- You will need some practice to adapt your driving to the little engine, at least if you want to drive fast.
- E85 is a gift for turbo engines.
- Cry once and buy ethanol compatible injectors that are big enough for your goal.
- A good spark is important.
- Spend some time when choosing your turbo.
- If not intercooled then use nitrous when racing. A little dry jet controlled by your ECU is all you need.
- Cam choice does not play such an important role as I thought it would in the beginning so there is no need for extreme lifts unless your heads are up for it.
- DEFA sells a sump style oil heater and it works. A water boiler unit will work better and take less time but does not bolt on.
Good luck! "End Quote".
This was in the 250 hp 1600 DP thread.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=137146&start=480
I'll let you know how well my 1679cc engine handles 22 lbs in a month or so once my buggy is back together with it's new big valve heads. I'm aiming for 200-220 hp.
_________________
| vwracerdave wrote: |
Take a good long look in the mirror and report back on what you see. |
| Paul.H wrote: |
| That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month |
My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936 |
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Chip
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2008
Posts: 969
Location: Utah
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| Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 9:26 am Post subject: |
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| clonebug wrote: |
| madmike wrote: |
8mm stock 15-18lbs
Like the guy said that jumped from the plane with no chute
"So far so Good" |
Guys in Sweden and Norway and Europe have been hitting 30 plus lbs on stock 8mm studs.
Here is a quote from Kalle who posts regularly on STF in the Forced Induction thread.
"quote"
Just do it!
I hope it is OK that I share some of the things I have learned over the years:
- 8mm head studs will be able to keep the heads where they belong be up to 3 bar of boost (44psi) Probably a little more with high quality head studs like RaceWare. Torque to 30nm (87mm sylinders)
- CB 044 heads with 40x35 valves is enough to reach your goal of 100hp/cylinder after a little port`n polish job.
- Intake design and manifolds makes all the difference.
- You will have to sacrifice a little low end torque for high end HP.
- Use CB650 or equal valve springs, especially if you plan to use ALS
- You will need some practice to adapt your driving to the little engine, at least if you want to drive fast.
- E85 is a gift for turbo engines.
- Cry once and buy ethanol compatible injectors that are big enough for your goal.
- A good spark is important.
- Spend some time when choosing your turbo.
- If not intercooled then use nitrous when racing. A little dry jet controlled by your ECU is all you need.
- Cam choice does not play such an important role as I thought it would in the beginning so there is no need for extreme lifts unless your heads are up for it.
- DEFA sells a sump style oil heater and it works. A water boiler unit will work better and take less time but does not bolt on.
Good luck! "End Quote".
This was in the 250 hp 1600 DP thread.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=137146&start=480
I'll let you know how well my 1679cc engine handles 22 lbs in a month or so once my buggy is back together with it's new big valve heads. I'm aiming for 200-220 hp. |
Pretty sure Kalle has 8mm racewares... |
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