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thasty07
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
thasty07 wrote:
insyncro wrote:

A Donaldson filter is advised for dusty conditions.


I know, I really need to get one Very Happy I can feel the difference after driving down some of those roads for a long time, and then jumping back on the hardball, its noticeably struggling to breathe and climbing hills gets a little bit slower.


Change your engine oil after "the sluggish" feeling.


Really?? I have been pretty strict on the 3,000 schedule. Would love to know why, dirt in the filter?

Super curious to learn more about why, thanks!
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My $0.02. When you are in very fine dusty conditions that get your filter that bad it is bypassing some of the fine abrasive dust into the intake, into the cylinders, past the rings, and now into the oil, where it does a nice job of prematurely wearing out the inside of the engine until the oil is changed. Cheap to do an oil change. Very Happy
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thasty07
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dobryan wrote:
My $0.02. When you are in very fine dusty conditions that get your filter that bad it is bypassing some of the fine abrasive dust into the intake, into the cylinders, past the rings, and now into the oil, where it does a nice job of prematurely wearing out the inside of the engine until the oil is changed. Cheap to do an oil change. Very Happy


Makes total sense, I dont know why I never thought about that before.... Learn something new everyday, thanks!
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LemonCove
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JudoJeff wrote:
I suggest you epoxy/plastic weld a round connector out the back of the airbox, and install a snorkel assembly in the driver's side column. Close off the rest of the airbox, either by gluing aluminum to the bottom with RTV, or plastic welding it.



That was my approach

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


My airbox is on the passenger side and uses the stock snorkel. More photos on my picasa site.
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thasty07,

If you need a snorkle assembly, I'll give you the one I have for sale, you pay postage.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1836261
It has a heavy duty rubber hose with it.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Any dirt passed by the air filter will shorten engine life. More gets by than most think.
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LemonCove
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Franagon wrote:
Help! I am stuck on this.


MsTaboo wrote:
OK, slow down. No need to panic. Have you read the section in the manual about sourcing a engine? If not go online to Bostig and read it.
I just did a quick search on car-part.com and found lots of good engines near you, and many more, some with very low miles, if you're willing to do some driving.
No need to buy a whole car!


Nothing new to add except my concurrence. I never set foot in a wrecker's yard, relying on Bostig's instructions and car-parts.com. I spoke to several vendors (12?), ultimately sourcing my engine from a wrecker in Ohio (I live in Nevada). They were very helpful and sent me pictures and details (e.g. had a broken timing belt cover). I got an engine with less than 3000 miles on it (verified by the pristine condition when I opened it up). Engine ($700) and shipping ($300) to my door $1000, which I thought was worth it for a low mileage engine.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You can do the same . . . . just saying.

Take your time and listen to those who have gone before you.

Good Luck!
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lshulster
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow bassyaks, nicely done.

I had no trouble finding a low mileage engine here in Canada, most yards were helpful, sending pictures when I asked for them. When a yard wouldn't answer my questions I crossed them off my list. The trouble I had was that none of the yards here would deliver to a non commercial address. So I had to go get my engine, 2 hrs from home.

Jim has helped me with issues that ive been having. I did order a new alternator. I'll probably need a replacement for my foil (my alternator light won't go off). My current path problem seems like it will harder to fix. The problem is occurring at this spot described in Jim's video, http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lt01CSEMMSI, I get 4.4ohms of resistance at the female blade connector going to the ignition switch. The wire coming from the battery seems find. I tried cleaning the contact surfaces on the blades but that didn't help. Anyone ever run into a problem like this?
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thasty07
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JudoJeff wrote:
thasty07,

If you need a snorkle assembly, I'll give you the one I have for sale, you pay postage.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1836261
It has a heavy duty rubber hose with it.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Any dirt passed by the air filter will shorten engine life. More gets by than most think.


Oh awesome! Ill send you a PM here shortly, thank you!!
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buildyourown
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sourcing an engine shouldnt be hard. I think I looked at 8 or so engines at 3-4 yards before picking one. Still had to replace a couple things but it was cheap and runs great. Remember, there are more Zetec engines than just about anything else in the world. Almost all the yards I talked to had 2-3.

IMO, a good recent runner is better than a low mileage one that's been sitting for 14 yrs.
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Destructo
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For what it's worth, I just installed a Zetec I found at a local yard that had 100,000+ miles on it. I decided to go for it out of laziness since it was the closest yard to my house. $200 later and it runs and idles smoother than the crate engine I did a number on.
Moral of the story, higher miles on these engines shouldn't be a deal breaker. These are very tough little engines and most likely any that you find in the yard are due to the vehicle falling apart around the engine.
Should I do a compression or leak down on it??? Sure, but right now I'm too busy having fun driving my bus around town.
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone used the GW Gauge Cluster Printed Circuit Replacement with the
Bostig Tachometer Signal Converter. The hook up looks easy enough you have ground and ignition power and you would splice inline to the tach input and I believe the signal out of the converter will be the same as what normally would be received by the tach. I just want to be sure before I apply power.

Note: I have for sale a Zetec with 65K (supposedly) with no accessories , just a long block $200.
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Franagon
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again to all. I am still looking for engines, accessories and actually cars. I have seen a few Focus's for about $1500 with about 100k miles on them. I know these engines are great, but to see one running before purchasing is worth a little bit of money to me. I am pretty comfortable with around 100k miles on the engine. I am going to a local yard tomorrow where there are 10 Focus's to eye what I can pull for accessories. I would think a lot of that stuff would still be there. Some entered the yard just a couple weeks ago. Well, it sure seems to be true how many of these cars/engines there are around, so that definitely helps! Thanks again to all for the comments.
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 3:24 pm    Post subject: P/S Pump Suction Hose Reply with quote

Has anyone relocated their P/S pump to avoid the suction hose that is in the kit, I feel that there is too much tension on the plastic barb on the reservoir. Would a good high pressure heater hose or A/C hose work, being a suction hose I imagine the concern is the hose collapsing under suction. I kit hose is 300 psi wire supported, do you think a thick wall 200 psi hose would work, it will be much easier on the reservoir. I was thinking of mounting it behind the right tail light where the old style air boxes were mounted.
I found a couple of coolant hoses which fit tighter and have a cleaner look, Pictures soon. Also I have a new standoff for the filling tower which takes the strain off the hoses and allows easier filling, it's in the oven now getting powder coated, after it cools I'll mount it and post photos.
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LemonCove
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bassyaks wrote:
Has anyone used the GW Gauge Cluster Printed Circuit Replacement with the
Bostig Tachometer Signal Converter.


I can understand why you're asking, but since the optional $69 signal converter (as opposed to the diode that can be soldered into the dash) installs in the black box in the engine compartment, it should work fine . . . . as long as the GoWesty kit is installed correctly.

The signal converter is great for those (like me) that don't trust themselves messing with the 30+ year old dash foil.

I did wire my Bostig tach converter incorrectly the first time . . . . if one was doing the dash wiring kit and the converter at the same time, it would make it more difficult to diagnose where a fault was . . . . in my case (using the existing working dash) at least I knew my tach worked prior to the conversion.
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LemonCove
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: P/S Pump Suction Hose Reply with quote

Bassyaks wrote:
Has anyone relocated their P/S pump to avoid the suction hose that is in the kit . . . . I found a couple of coolant hoses which fit tighter and have a cleaner look, Pictures soon.


BTDT

Don't use a coolant hose

I struggled with the same thing. I refuse to use the hose that Bostig included in the kit.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I found this great molded coolant hose (above), but it couldn't take the P/S fluid and started weeping . . . when hot, it also would collapse (fit nicely though Smile )

I now use two shorter pieces of hydraulic hose, connected by a barbed elbow, but it's not pretty . . . . although it is shorter (and still cleaner than the big ol' Bostig hose, IMHO).

I also did a slight relocation of the reservoir, but still close to the stock location, just to give me more room to work with (I used aluminum stock).

I also had a hose shop shorten the Hi pressure hose to fit more cleanly.

Ideally, I'd like a metal "U" tube that I could connect with 2 short pieces of hydraulic hose . . . . cant find a 5/8" barbed U, haven't tried making one.
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MsTaboo
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 6:10 pm    Post subject: Re: P/S Pump Suction Hose Reply with quote

LemonCove wrote:
Bassyaks wrote:
Has anyone relocated their P/S reservoir to avoid the suction hose that is in the kit . . . . I found a couple of coolant hoses which fit tighter and have a cleaner look, Pictures soon.

BTDT
Don't use a coolant hose
I struggled with the same thing. I refuse to use the hose that Bostig included in the kit.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I found this great molded coolant hose (above), but it couldn't take the P/S fluid and started weeping . . . when hot, it also would collapse (fit nicely though Smile )
I now use two shorter pieces of hydraulic hose, connected by a barbed elbow, but it's not pretty . . . . although it is shorter (and still cleaner than the big ol' Bostig hose, IMHO).
I also did a slight relocation of the reservoir, but still close to the stock location, just to give me more room to work with (I used aluminum stock).
I also had a hose shop shorten the Hi pressure hose to fit more cleanly.
Ideally, I'd like a metal "U" tube that I could connect with 2 short pieces of hydraulic hose . . . . cant find a 5/8" barbed U, haven't tried making one.


Yep, don't use coolant hose, won't hold up. I recently went to an industrial hydraulics hose supplier and talked to them about this application. The hose they recommended was the same as supplied by Bostig for that size.

It is a bit of a pain to use, but mine has worked for me for six years and I plan on reusing for my zero mile engine install. I did mount my reservoir in a slightly different position.
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the suction tube rotate, mine is at a different angle, My suction tube almost touches the bottom of the reservoir, it's almost straight up. I did relocate the reservoir to the space behind the tail light, the angle is slight but I'm worried that the reservoir may be too low for the feed. If I can change the angle of the tube, I'll move it back. I'll have to check it in the morning
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, you can rotate the suction tube, but it's not easy to move.
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Than that was my problem is, I'll twist it this afternoon and pop in the 930's and I'm ready for a start when my HCOP comes in.
Thanks
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jbnova
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes! The barb on the PS pump is totally easy to move. You just need the confidence to know that it's actually possible and that it won't break. After reassurance from others, I fashioned myself a little tool from a piece of conduit, slipped it over the barb, and then it easily twisted to my desired position. Jim at Bostig also suggests large vice grips as an alternative.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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