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How to find a bullet-proof Subaru 2.5 non oil drinker
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vanonimous
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 2.5 uses oil but it doesn't really bother me, it never smokes and I just add some when it needs it.

I have a TSI engine in a GTI and it gulps oil like no other but it doesn't bother me either. Many 2.0T owners use Liqui Moly, they swear it stops oil consumption completely.

If wife becomes lazy and demands not to have to check 2.0T oil level regularly I might actually try friction modifier.
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rubbachicken
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kalispell365
thank you for your input, i'm maybe heading for an unplanned {until recently, i have most of the conversion parts, and it'd be rude not to use it} subaru conversion.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

for the cost of the rings, i'll be taking your advice.
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kalispell365
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rubbachicken wrote:
kalispell365
thank you for your input, i'm maybe heading for an unplanned {until recently, i have most of the conversion parts, and it'd be rude not to use it} subaru conversion.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

for the cost of the rings, i'll be taking your advice.


EXCELLENT!

Youll love it, they are good strong smooth powerplants. Very Happy
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 2:29 pm    Post subject: finding a subaru running car with EJ22. Reply with quote

I have an 84 Vanagon with automatic and a 1.9L. I did a rebuild on this engine, I am still have trouble with the electrical system. I got the engine in a box and 1000 parts. I have an 83 Vanagon diesel 1.9L - yes it is slow, still runs good.

I am looking for a legacy 1990-1994, so I can pass California smog. I understand that Nevada has adopted The policies of California
emissions with respect to smog? Any ideas???
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levi
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You say "So you can pass Calif smog", so I'm guessing you are in California.

So why do you bring up Nevada?

I don't understand your questions. ..
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Surfy Murphy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just put in an ej25 in my syncro hardtop. Runs awesome...eats about a quart of oil every 50-100 miles. My subaru mechanic said to drive it and see how if it gets better, that all engines that have been sitting do the same thing. I tried some seafoam in the gas and oil, changed the oil and it's still burning oil, maybe half a quart as much. ...I'm thinking probably new rings?

Can they be replaced without removing the engine?

I'll try the yamaha stuff on the next tank of gas I guess. Ugh.
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't remember the last time I added oil to the Volkswagen engine in my Vanagon. I guess I feel yer pain...sort of
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm dealing with an oil drinking 2.5 now as well.
Probably the last 2.5 I will work on.
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Surfy Murphy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are you doing to address the issue insyncro?
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did cold/hot compression testing, leakdown, examined the exhaust valves and entire intake and pressure relief system....

Now the engine is crated and going back to the rebuilder to be straightened out.
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Surfy Murphy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I have a feeling I'll be spending next Saturday at the subaru mechanic doing the same thing. So much for getting to use the van this summer.
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Royb
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two cents and two engines worth of experience here- my WRX burned oil from day one, brand new. It grenaded at 189k miles (unmodified). I bought a rebuilt engine from CCR engines in Colorado and 20k miles later, hasn't burned a drop of oil. They are pricey, but I'm impressed with CCR if you want a good Subaru engine.
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Surfy Murphy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will report exactly what the issue was after the rebuilder contacts me.
I am really curious, all signs lead to rings, but this is one of the highest quality rebuilds I have seen to date.
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davevickery
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The original question was how to ensure getting a good 2.5 for a conversion as they get older and harder to find. I don't see any reason to bash subarus, the point was to mitigate the risks of a couple common problems; sometimes they use too much oil, and having to replace the engine because you gambled on a junkyard or otherwise unknown engine.

The answer of how to get a bullet proof 2.5 isn't to go with a Bostig or a 1.8T and t is not taking your chances on a $250 pick and pull special unless you plan to replace the block anyway.

I'm going with a relatively low mile donor that I was able to drive and talk to the owner and look at paperwork. It runs great and he doesn't add oil between changes (I'm told and believe him). It doesn't have any hint of smoke on startup. So that is how I mitigated the risk of getting a bad one. If I had to I could have gone for a new short block and rebuilt heads but that would cost a lot more. It isn't going to last as long but I shouldn't have to replace it anytime soon or put up with adding oil every few tanks of gas.

You can't compare a low mile 1.8T or a new Ford engine to a used $500 subaru donor which is what most people are doing. If you want to do that, get a new 2.5 block and rebuilt heads. Or a late model 2.5 with low miles if you are willing to deal with drive by wire. The original headgasket problem has long been a non issue unless you buy an engine damaged before the headgaskets were changed to the new style.

I see no reason to give up on subarus. The 2.5 is the "right" amount of power for a vanagon, it fits better than inline 4s, it is the most common conversion, the most supported, has more choices in conversion parts. The list goes on. Bostig is fine, reliable, not quite enough power, not the same power band. I'd do a rebuiilt 2.2 subie before a Bostig. A 1.8T is fine, great power and mileage, but doesn't fit well, the engine management gets finicky as components age, the turbo generates/traps tons of heat in the rear engine van, and loss of ground clearance for 2WD. It is a good choice in California if you want more power than a 2.2 can give.

BTW, I mentioned in another thread, if oil is getting past the rings, Yamalube Ring Free is the shit. A tiny bit in my camry that smoked on startup and totally gone. In a 2.1, compression jumped up 8-10 psi within 200 miles. So I think that is another way to mitigate the oil drinking problem depending if it is the rings or the valve guides.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brand new parts were used on the engine I am now replacing.
It ate a quart every 100 miles.
I tested it, it sure was thirsty.

A 2.5 is going back in, but a consideration was an H6.
I have not had any issues with the EZ platform engines...not one Exclamation
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wesitarz
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't added extra oil between changes for 12 years and for the last 7 years my van sits for 5-6 months of the year. My 02 2.5L had 1800km on it when installed.
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Surfy Murphy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My engine sat in someone's garage before I bought it, then all winter outside under a tarp at my subaru mechanics because he was too busy to do the seals. That can't have helped. He said he sprayed some wd40 on the Rings to hydrate them but that they didn't look bad. He builds rally cars and has a line of wrx stis in front of his shop at all times, so he knows the subaru engines, but he's never seen one in a vw. There isn't a lot of local knowledge here in nyc on this stuff.

This van is my first rodeo doing an install. I marvel at the folks who post about spending almost nothing to get their vans running. This is Summer road trip killing lesson for sure.

I'm going to try throwing some moly crap at it and hope for the best.. Very curious about what you find out insyncro. I'll probably be back at the subaru shop for a leak down in a couple weeks and will report back.
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kalispell365
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know I sound like a broken record on here, but no one seems to like the answer...Install a new set of $50.00 rings before you put the engine in the first time. Slightly break the glaze with a 3 stone hone, medium grit. Its so easy! Then, use straight 30 weight oil for your break in and cover the RPM range. Lots of downshifts to force the rings into the cylinder walls. Cobb Tuning used to have an excellent write up on this break in procedure but I cant find it anymore. If you have a "rebuilt" engine that is using the stated levels of oil, no one pressurized the rings proper and/ or didn't use an oil that allows seating the rings proper. Or even more likely is they damaged the oil rings when installing the piston into the short block. These engines have been around for 16 years now, there are no more mysteries with them.

So quick to disrespect the motor, but if it wasn't installed/ broken correct then whos fault is it really? Shocked
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Last edited by kalispell365 on Sun Aug 09, 2015 10:14 am; edited 2 times in total
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Surfy Murphy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just when I think I've done everything right, changed every little part that needs fixing, after asking the advice of every qualified person I can find, there's always some little thing that someone says I should have known better about. It's like Murphys law for the DIY van mechanic. Kalispell365, hopefully your advice will help someone else.
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