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cellobus1 Samba Member
Joined: June 10, 2014 Posts: 284 Location: East Tennessee
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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2024 8:53 am Post subject: 091 vent hole question |
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Condition:
Trans gear oil is leaking from right axle flange onto inner cv boot. (CV boots are the EMPI carded set of 4 and after 5 years/12,000 miles of service are still in good shape: crack-free and intact).
I’m aware that a blocked trans vent hole can cause the flange seal to leak, and that unclogging the vent can reverse the leak. My motor is currently removed. What I’d like to know is if it’s possible to disconnect the trans at its front mountings but not at the cv’s to gain access to the vent hole. Can the trans move enough to the rear and down while still connected at the cv’s to access the vent hole to a useful extent? I’d rather not disconnect the cv, it’s a royal pita. It seems like there are fewer and more straightforward connections up front. If the cleaning out of the vent doesn’t do the trick, then yes, I’ll have to remove the affected cv, but I’d love it if I only had to remove the cv if the vent hole trick doesn’t work.
Andy _________________ 1976 unrestored daily driver Standard bus, "Stella"
formerly, 1959 Standard bus
formerly, 1973 transporter which was 4 years old when it taught me to drive |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50336
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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2024 9:39 am Post subject: Re: 091 vent hole question |
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You can get to the vent hole with the transmission in place with a small brass or steel brush, you can even get a small piece of wire up there if need be.
You should buy one of the caps that fits in the transmission output flange behind the CV and be prepared to replace it. If your bolt heads are in good shape, getting the bolts out of the CV is only a ten minute job. If your bolts aren't in good shape, then have new triple square bolts on hand and an extra long adapter to use to get them in and out. Some Aviation Permatex or other goo will help keep the caps in place is they don't fit tightly enough. |
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kreemoweet Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2008 Posts: 3897 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2024 12:18 pm Post subject: Re: 091 vent hole question |
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If oil is getting in the boot, the disk seal inside the flange is leaking, not the one external to the flange. The vent hole would not have much to do with that kind of leak, since it's pressed into place pretty darn tight. Of course the CVJ has to come off to replace that seal.
The vent hole is connected to a somewhat narrow channel in the nosecone, if it's really clogged just poking a wire in the vent hole may not do much. _________________ '67 bug: seized by the authorities
'68 bug: seized by the authorities
'71 kombi: not yet seized by the authorities
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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cellobus1 Samba Member
Joined: June 10, 2014 Posts: 284 Location: East Tennessee
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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2024 10:33 pm Post subject: Re: 091 vent hole question |
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Quote
You can get to the vent hole with the transmission in place
End quote
I’m not a big fan of just poking tools into an unseen abyss. This is an otherwise great running transaxle. I haven’t even found the vent hole yet in situ, but it seems like it’s probably a matter of lowering that end a couple of inches to where I could not just see it but get at it with some vacuum. I’m willing to try this and if it doesn’t stop leaking, why, yes I’ll take the cv joints off but it’s a royal pain to move the car to access all the cv bolts with no motor in it. _________________ 1976 unrestored daily driver Standard bus, "Stella"
formerly, 1959 Standard bus
formerly, 1973 transporter which was 4 years old when it taught me to drive |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50336
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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2024 11:13 pm Post subject: Re: 091 vent hole question |
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cellobus1 wrote: |
Quote
You can get to the vent hole with the transmission in place
End quote
I’m not a big fan of just poking tools into an unseen abyss. This is an otherwise great running transaxle. I haven’t even found the vent hole yet in situ, but it seems like it’s probably a matter of lowering that end a couple of inches to where I could not just see it but get at it with some vacuum. I’m willing to try this and if it doesn’t stop leaking, why, yes I’ll take the cv joints off but it’s a royal pain to move the car to access all the cv bolts with no motor in it. |
I never more the vehicle to access the CV bolts and you only need to remove the inner CV. With the tire sitting on two or three 2x6s to give you room to work underneath, access the three to six bolts you can get at and then if necessary jack the wheel up and rotate the axle 180° and remove the remainder of the bolts. You can then pop the inner inner CV out of it's flange, protect it with a gallon baggie, and set it on a jack stand. Buying an extra long adapter makes the job go easier than trying to get by using a short adapter and an extension. |
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