1979 Transporter - "Wheatbread"

[SGKent]

underside looks good. You probably need new rubber brake lines but the steel should be fine. If the master is leaking then you will need a master but there is a good chance it is fine. Based on the photos, I'd take the path of replacing only the parts that are worn out. Example - check the ball joints for play before you even consider replacing them. You may or may not need rubber, but that looks like a fairly low mileage bus so many parts may be good. It looks to have been painted. You might see if you can get before and after photos.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[aeromech]

This could be money well spent. 1 Liter Vacuum Brake Fluid Bleeder Car Truck Motorcycle ATV

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Liter-Vacuum-Brake-Fluid...mp;vxp=mtr

You'll need a compressor though.
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[secretsubmariner]

[Tcash]

Youtube videos

[riverside66]

SGKent: OK, I'll check for play at the hubs when I get home. I just assumed that since the boots were all torn, they'd just need replacing.

I did check the tie rods for play, and (at least when trying to wiggle the tie rod itself when underneath the bus) there didn't seem to be any.

The bus did get a respray. The roof was done within the past couple of years (I have the receipt for it, just can't remember the date it was done). I'm not sure how long ago the body was done. There is a small amount of rust at some of the body seams. It's more than light surface rust, but it's not deep, nor extensive.

Oh, and rubber brake lines are on the way. The current ones aren't leaking, but do have visible cracks.



Areomech: While reading thru Ratwell's page I took note of his recommendation on a bleeder and ordered it (Motive Power Bleeder). It's just waiting in the garage now.

But based on one of your earlier recommendations, and from the fact that I'll eventually need to address some of the small rust areas, I'll be looking into picking up a compressor. Any in particular?

Oh, and you mention a "46mm knocker tool" got a link to a picture of one?

[jtauxe]

Very nice bus, and for $8k you got a good deal. I agree with what the above posters have said about taking your time, and appreciating the ability to do it right.

One thing: You say the tires are brand new, but... are they the correct tires? I had to replace the lovely new passenger tires that were put on my very similar bus (vw.tauxe.net/snickers) because they were not the right rating (these buses need a light truck C rating). It was a shame to take off nice new tires, but I gave them to my neighbor for his car (just happened to fit, and he just happened to need tires) in a gesture of goodwill.

Have fun getting this lovely bus going!

PS: I, too, got the '79 after someone had replaced the FI with a single carburetor. Some like 'em. I prefer FI. Someday, it should be returned to a working FI system, and then it will be fantastic.
_________________
John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD

[aeromech]

you mention a "46mm knocker tool" got a link to a picture of one?

Like this but 46mm for the bus: http://www.busdepot.com/5748

I'll be looking into picking up a compressor. Any in particular?

This one on CL looks good. http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/tls/4936765460.html

The direct drive type are LOUD. Get one that has a fan belt drive. You want 20 gallon or better and be sure it's 120 VAC and not 240 VAC unless you have the correct outlet for it. A good quality used air compressor can last you for several years and only cost $100-$200. You can always go to Sears and buy a new one though.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[wcfvw69]

I agree with Aero- DON'T replace the tie rods or ball joints unless they are worn out. The parts you buy today don't even come close to being the same quality as the original VW parts. The available new ball joints leave a lot to be desired as well. You can buy new ball joint boots and tie rod boots as well.

You sound like you're new to the wonderful world of being a mechanic. I'd strongly suggest having someone inspect your front suspension that you trust, looking for any worn parts or concerns. Once the front suspension, steering gear, etc are good to go, get the alignment checked and set.

You may call around for prices to turn your rotors and drums. I only pay $15 per drum to get them turned.
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[riverside66]

[riverside66]

Alright, here are some shots of the engine:

Does anyone have any idea what wire running over the fan shroud might be for? It plugs right into the coil:

The green/yellow/grey/brown wire runs to an outlet on the front of the bus, just under the bumper, and I'm guessing that was used during towing? Not sure what the metal 'amp' looking device is:

Not sure what the silver box mounted to the firewall is, or the clip looking thing behind the battery:

These are the worst rust spots on the outside:

And this just warms my heart right here:

[secretsubmariner]

The silver box is the voltage regulator, for sure. I would give you pointers based on my fi bus converted to duals, but I'm not as seasoned as some and don't want to spread misinformation. But i know it's the VR, and it's probably best left alone...

This ain't OG

The wire over the shroud spooks me. Lots of interesting doo dads ya got in there. Good luck! I'm sure others will be of better help.

edit: upon second glance, I'd move that fuel pump and filter under the bus out from the engine compartment. Holy shit. Fuel is just waiting to start spilling out all over the top of the carb!

usually they're mounted somewhere around here... driver's side frame fail, just forward of the rear tire..

image is for example only* lol
_________________
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ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI

[riverside66]

Hey Tony, thanks for the input on the wires. Yea, I don't like them either.

I'll be spending some time this weekend to dig in a bit more.

[aeromech]

Everything else aside, I'm curious how well that single carburetor is working for you. I'll be building a 2000cc soon with hydraulic lifters and have to decide what to use carburetor wise. There are definate advantages with going single. Price, reliability, choke are three. What I don't know about though is driveability. Does your engine ever pop and run rough?
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[riverside66]

It runs pretty smooth, and no popping, but the only other experience I've had with aircooled engines was a 1600dp which also had a single carb. I've not had firsthand experience with dual carb or FI setups.

[secretsubmariner]

[riverside66]

Hey all! Hope you are well!

So with the shocks completely shot I decided to get new ones installed. I had no trouble removing the top bolt, but the lower bolt just spins (albeit with a good deal of force). The nut has already been removed, as you can see in the pic.

I've searched the forums but can't find any post covering a bolt that spins and goes nowhere, all I can find are folks whose bolt is frozen solid.

I'm assuming it's stripped?

Any suggestions on how to get it out? Thanks!

[Brian]

There's no threading on the inside of that, just beat the living daylights out of it.
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[riverside66]

Roger that! Thanks!

[busdaddy]

Put the nut back on but leave it a few threads short of tight to start with, no need to mushroom the end of the bolt.
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[riverside66]

Yea, after a few hits that though crossed my mind. I decided against hitting, and instead used my foot to put pressure on the shock (pushing away from the hub) while I turned the bolt back and forth with my wrench. That worked.

Got the other side done with no drama whatsoever.