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1979 Transporter - "Wheatbread"
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riverside66
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:40 pm    Post subject: 1979 Transporter - "Wheatbread" Reply with quote

Hey all! I just picked up my 1st bus (last weekend actually), from some pretty cool folks here in town. Cool

Here she is:

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet!, aside from fuel lines and tires what are your plans for it?
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riverside66
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:54 pm    Post subject: First bus - 1979 Transporter Reply with quote

She's pretty solid, and runs well, but she doesn't stop well. I'll be addressing the bad brakes (tie rods and ball joints as well) over the next few weeks/months (and will appreciate any advice you guys have in doing that).

Here are some shots of the underneath:
(there's virtually no rust on the underside. Looks like it was coated by Ziebart).


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wcfvw69
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice bus! Very stock, original and clean. She's a beauty!
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riverside66
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys! She's charmed me for sure.

Really, the only thing I want to do is get her roadworthy again! The brakes and front suspension is first. The steering has a bit of slop to address, and, as I almost rolled through a red light soooo.

I've already ordered brake lines/hoses, a german MC, and new brake servo. Just waiting for them to arrive.

I've read a lot of your posts (both of you) and appreciate all the help you've contributed to the community!

Also just got Muir's book (again...gave my prev copy to the buyer of my bug), and the Bentley (is on it's way). Forgive the stupid questions....they're on the way too Smile
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you say clean. Congrats.
Good Luck
Tcash
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice bus. Looks like you'll want to rebuild those drive axles asap. From the rotors I'd guess it hasn't seen much travel lately. Can you tell us what you paid for it?
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Xevin
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fun! Congratulations.
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riverside66
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure, I paid 8k for it. I don't know if that's fair, above, or under. I just know that you don't find many buses with bodies like this here in FL. I also really liked the standard (and unmolested) interior. It fires up first try, and runs pretty well too.

The bad is the brakes, tie rods, ball joints, (yea, rear axles too). And there's some custom wiring at the rear (pretty sure most of it is towing/trailer related).

This isn't my daily, and I'm not truly in a rush, so there's no immediate need to get this done (other than it's only been off the road for a few days and I already miss the feeling of driving it). Confused
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riverside66
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and again, I appreciate any feedback/advice you guys feel inclined to give.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:09 pm    Post subject: CV Joint Service Reply with quote

To link to this post
Code:
[url=http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7635241#7635241]CV Joint Service[/url]


Click on links.
CV Joint Assembly
How to Remove Stripped CV Bolt Head
CV Joints: Re-pack or Replace?
CV Joint Service (Lobro)
Nord-Lock NLX-series
PSA - Nord-Lock your drive shaft (CV) bolts
1970 VW Type2 CV Joint Play
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgwmuZuJ02I
Vanagon CV bolt torque specification 33 ft lbs
CV Joints 101
CV Joint Maintenance
CV Joints 101
Ford CV 72GG-4635-BA

Prt#113 501 229 A and 211 501 229, CV bolt, Socket Head, M8-1.25 x 47, 12.9 hardness, to 70.
Prt# 893 407 237, CV bolt, 12 point polygon head, M8-1.25 x 48, 12.9 hardness, to 71-79. Will work on 68-91 Buses.

Karl wrote:
YES!
Manual and auto trans axles are 3 different lengths.
...and are NOT interchangable.

Half shaft lengths
manual 476mm (18 3/4in)
auto left 457mm (18 in)
auto right 505mm (19 7/8 in)


CV Joint Boots
https://infopart.org/audi-211501149-part
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Good Luck
Tcash


Last edited by Tcash on Sat Sep 02, 2017 9:03 am; edited 10 times in total
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riverside66
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the links TCash.

Question: with several different areas underneath needing attention, is there a certain order as to which area should be worked on 1st?

And being the complete novice that I am, of the areas mentioned so far in this thread, are there any that I shouldn't attempt do myself (vs taking it to a shop)?

I haven't done anything yet, except put it on stands, take the wheels off, and hit a few areas on the hubs with PB Blaster in advance.

I do happen to have a well established VW garage here in town (Hilltop Motors) for the more advanced stuff, if it came down to it.
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wcfvw69
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First steps should be brakes! Nothing is more important. Smile You're so very lucky in that if it only need suspension and brake work vs. rust repair!

Good job in ordering the manuals that will help you get it dialed in. The suspension parts changing isn't too difficult (except ball joints). If your not familiar with that type of work, you should find someone who can help you assess the condition of your suspension and ball joints.

Is there a VW club in your neck of the woods? That would be your best bet in having someone familiar come over and help you go over it.

PS, I love that you appear to be a purist and want to keep it stock, stock, stock...
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1969 Convertible Bug
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secretsubmariner
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked

HOOOOOOOOOOO DOGGIES That's a fantastic bus. 8K is not bad for a bus that clean that starts and drives every time...and if brake/suspension stuff is all you need to do to get it reliable and putting around, you got lucky! I can't wait to see more pictures! I'm interested in seeing your engine bay. (I have a special place in my heart for brown buses)

Congratulations!!
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you are made of money I think you should do almost all of the work yourself. The following really aren't in a specific order and are just off the top of my head.

1) Tires. As Busdaddy said you probably need to replace your tires. If they have cracks or slick tread for sure. Buses need stiff sidewalls so an 8 ply is best and I prefer the Hankook RA08 185/75R14. Since your wheels are off best to just take them down to a tire shop that can order them up for you. Don't settle for anything else they try to talk you into. Price should be around $450 out the door.

2) Brakes. Better assume that you need new rubber brake hoses front and back. You might be able to have the front rotors skim cut to remove any pitting. Check the front calipers and if they seem stuck you can rebuild them yourself unless the cylinder walls are damaged from water in the brake fluid. How does the brake pedal feel right now? You might get lucky and have a good master cylinder and brake booster. Some new bus owners don't even realize that their power brakes aren't working. Inspect the booster vacuum hose and replace that if it looks original. You'll need about 7 feet of Gates 27231 power brake vacuum hose 15/32 I.D. Test the check valve.

3) Drive axles. Buy yourself 4 ea. boot kits for around $15 each. Remove the axles. Then remove the CV's from the axles. Clean everything. Inspect, reassemble, and lube. Usually doing this now will save a break down later.

4) Cram some new grease into the rear wheel bearings while you can and clean and repack the front bearings if they look good.

5) Steering. This would best be done with the front wheels on the ground. Climb under and have a friend lightly turn the steering wheel back and forth about 20 degrees while you look for play in the steering gearbox, drag link, center pin, and steering tie rod ends. Replace what you find bad then go get a front end alignment from an old tire shop that still does a non-computer alignment $60.

6) Air conditioning. It's doubtful that you'll ever be able to make that a/c work so better plan to remove what you can.

7) Tow adapter. I'd rip that out of there.

Cool Drain and fill your transmission with new gear oil.

9) Get a grease gun and lube the front beam. There are five fittings on the beam that are for this. Pump until you see the grease coming out.

That should be plenty for now. Find a mail order parts house you like and save money.
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riverside66
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the compliments!

I spent a fair amount of time looking, and the top two requirements that I had were: 1) as little rust as possible and 2) mechanically sound engine that ran well, with no obvious abuse (like missing seals/tins). After searching, and comparing costs for a similar condition bus on the west coast (and factoring in shipping/transportation costs), and given the fact that this bus is still in great stock shape (and I'm fairly certain that the engine is the original as well), 8k seemed like a fair price.

Bill: I definitely lean towards the purist camp! If I do anything that isn't stock, it will be slightly lowering it (think Cal look, not slammed). But I'm not even sure about that. I really just love it as it is.

Tony: I'll get some pics of the engine soon. One of the few mods the PO did was convert it to a Weber carb, so it's no longer FI. But I don't mind too much. It also has some weird wires hanging out that I'll want some input on (and definitely want to relocate). PS, I've been keeping track of your 78 Champagne build as well and I really dig your dedication! It's a sweet bus for sure!

Aeromech: Thanks for the checklist!

1) Actually, the tires are brand spankin new (I have the receipts for when they were purchased at the end of last year).

2) Rubber brake hose is on the way, as is a full kit of german metal brake lines. I've never seen pitting like that on rotors (that's not saying much, since I don't have much experience) but it weirded me out enough to just order a new set of front rotors. The calipers still have what looks to be about 1/4in of pad left so I think they're good? I haven't removed them yet for a closer inspection.

From the first test drive to about a week later, the brakes really degraded. It was after I had changed the oil and went for a longer test drive that I ended up almost rolling thru a red light while standing on the brakes that I decided it needed to be off the road until addressed. When I noticed that the MC looked to be leaking, i just went ahead and added that to my list of parts ordered, along with a new brake servo. Was that overkill? That "pucker" moment at the red light was still fresh in my mind...

Thanks for the part number for the vacuum hose! I've already located the hose and the check valve, so I at least know where they are.

3) OK, got it!

4) Got it!

5) Yea, it had a bit of slack in the steering. The tie rods are on their way, but I haven't checked the drag link yet. No clue about the condition of the steering box yet (altho I've seen the prices on those so I'm hoping mine's still good). Not sure of where the center pin is yet.

6) Good point! While I do have the compressor, I don't plan on ever installing it. Vent window is all I ever needed!

7) Great minds! That's already been removed Cool

Cool Got it!

9) Got it (good to know)


BTW, are there any specific recommendations for axle boots? brands/shops?

Thanks!!
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

STOP!

While I admire your intentions to fix your bus you need to stop ordering parts. Buying a new booster is a mistake. Buying a full metal brake line kit is a mistake. You are throwing your money away and you'll need that later for the purchases that you'll actually need to make.

We get our boosters rebuilt. Installing the metal brake lines is a bitch and the kits usually don't fit right. Unless your lines are leaking, plugged, or rusty then just flush them. The rubber brake lines degrade internally. That's why they need to be changed. Buy a new master cylinder. The Brazillian ones are fine for about $50. Calipers are different than pads. Pads wear, calipers push on the pads using hydraulic force. Brake fluid attracts water. Water ruins calipers and other brake system components. Sometimes MC's leak brake fluid into the booster which ruins it. Look at your new tires and see what the sidewall rating is. If it's a "passenger" tire with thin sidewalls, driving your bus will feel like it's riding on a water bed. I'm not saying that you'll buy new tires but I want you to understand why we like the 8 ply sidewall tires. The rotors are pitted from the bus being parked. You can get rotors turned for around $30 each if they are within limits for thickness. New rotors are nice but once again you might be throwing your money away. Test the check valve. If it's good just use it. All you need to do is try to blow through it. Air should pass one direction and not the other. No point in replacing tie rods unless they have play or are bent. Usually I find that the drag link is what causes the loose steering. Do some research on axle boot kits. Some Chinese rubber products don't last very long. DO NOT replace your GERMAN drive axles with Autozone cheap ass Chinese drive axles. The GERMAN parts have better steel and are probably still good once cleaned and lubed. Busdepot.com is a good place to find parts. Stay away from cheap chrome parts made in China. It won't last and probably won't fit right.

Okay, sorry for the rant but you need to slow down and ask questions here BEFORE you pull out the credit card. We'll give you the advice you need and trust me, we've learned from our own mistakes and don't want to see you make the same ones.

PS- That new booster you ordered may not fit without some modification (drilling).
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riverside66
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aeromech: Alright, thanks for the wake up call. The good thing, is that these orders were still pending, so I cancelled the metal brake lines, and the servo, and switched out from a german MC to a much more affordable one (TRW).

That gives me a bit more room for when I pick up some of the tools I'll need for removing the axles.

Thanks again for your input here. I'll wait for additional input before ordering anything else.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please feel free to PM me any time or just ask back here in this thread. Try to keep it all in one place if possible. I'm glad you're a guy who can follow advice. There are a lot of them that can't.

Now that you're saving some money maybe you can buy a brake bleeder. I have no idea if you own a compressor but a 1/2 inch impact comes in real handy. For the rear axle nuts you'll probably want to buy that 46mm knocker tool that you smack with a BFH. Just don't hit your bus with it.
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Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get yourself one of these. SNAP ON 6 POINT METRIC FLARE NUT WRENCH 9 & 11 MM

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SNAP-ON-6-POINT-METRIC-FLA...mp;vxp=mtr

You'll need it for the metal brake lines.
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Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
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VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
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