Insulating and sound dampening front doors

[austinindian]

After applying acoustic & heat suppressor material on my doors, I’m having a harder time clipping in my door panels with the original ‘regular style’ fasteners. Some of them are popping out due to the new layer between the metal and panel. I was considering trying the ‘deluxe style’ fasteners from GoWesty if they could be purchased individually. However, I was wondering if anyone has created a custom fastener setup on their front doors. The holes are easy to get to front and behind. Perhaps someone has tried something in that regard and would be willing to share experiences.

[DenverB]

Not the best solution probably for you because I assume you're using the original door panels, but I snagged generic black plastic fastners from an Ace hardware to fasten my 1/8 baltic birch sheets to my door of my bay (you can kind of see them behind Spot in the photo). My OG panels were complete garbage, though, and keeping stock wasn't a priority.

It's not that pretty, but sort of works in an 'industrial' sense -- I also don't mind that they show.

You may be able to fiddle with some of the generic black plastic fastners to work for your application, though.

EDIT: this is what they look like: http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/RNB-45680_OB_ml.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-45680
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'77 Transporter/camper (Bussy - Reef Blue/Pastel White)
'67 bug (Santos - VW Blue)
'84 Vanagon Westfalia (Pink Flamingo - Pastel White/Pink)
'88 Vanagon GL Westfalia (Frankie Says - Wolfram Gray)
'02 Eurovan Weekender (Green Apple)
'95-'03 Eurovan full campers and weekenders (rental fleet)
'84 -'91 Vanagon full campers and weekenders (rental fleet)
'72 Porsche 914 (Greta - RIP)

www.RockyMountainCampervans.com

[PDXWesty]

Usually the material is applied to the inside of the outer skin. Not sure what it's doing for you on the inside of the door with all the cut outs and whatnot.

You're going to have to find universal fasteners that work for multi thickness panels.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-...+fasteners
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89 Westy 2.1 Auto

[austinindian]

PDXWesty, thanks for that info and the link here. I started going a bit crazy on that door as the days turned into this little art project where I was clipping pieces to fit. I suppose I could easily remove the sections you refer to if that does not improve sound qualities. Regardless, that right door sounds so much better while opening and closing now, in addition to noise from the road.

[Merian]

cut away the material around each hole - leave a generous amount of space

and, yes, that is the wrong material for that application

[austinindian]

Median, I used a heat and sound suppressor called Thermotec I believe. What should I be using? I'll definitely cut away around the fastener holes. Thx for the tip.

[Merian]

this??
http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14620-Heat-Sound-Suppressor/dp/B004PILLZG


put a dampener product over 25-30% of the inner door skin

speaker pads behind speakers

this co. (no relations with them) make a skin typ product to go where you put the other

http://www.cascadeaudio.com/

hunt around on their site for how to install, encasing door rods in tubes, etc.

** Lot of other things to do inside the doors before sealing it all up

[alaskadan]

All you need is a fastener with a longer grip range. Find an online auto marine upholstery supplier and you probably can find just what you need.

[specialev]

The GW deluxe fastener is a rubber insulated rivnut. MC master Carr sells them.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=ws9d9f

The plastic fasteners that Werksberg sells are better imo. Easier to install and r&r from my experience.

[Merian]

the panels would still be proud of the door panel - the Vanagon doesn't have a cap over that junction like many other cars do, so you'll see a gap

be sure you have cleaned out dirt, treated rust, adjusted windows (maybe new felt?), lubed all the window and door mechanisms, got the speaker you want & added any power accessories (power windows maybe, remote locking definitely)

[Merian]

clean the inside of the door skin with soap & water, let dry; then clean with alcohol; let dry and stick the cut to fit dampening panels in like this

[Merian]

I added aftermarket remote power locking. Also note the old wet suit material used to fill in in spots.

[IdahoDoug]

See if you can find my "hatch panel" thread. In it I think I identified the threaded black panel fasterner part number from Fasteners Inc, or Fastenal - both big chains. If not, bug me and I will find the leftovers in their box with the P/N on it.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Merian]

good time to add a map pocket onto the panel since it is off; you need to mark where the opened glove box will land for clearance:

[Merian]

correct material for that spot, BUT this also shows what NOT to do - you need to cut away large areas (as large as possible) to have even a prayer of avoiding a big gap where the panel fits:

[Merian]

CU showing tube around door rod - this attenuates sound transmission while allowing smooth operation

[Merian]

You're the 2nd person to ask me about this issue in the last 10 days so I decided to post all the pics I have.

The material I like to replace the vapor barrier is Cascade's VB-2 - use a deadener on the inner door skin, and use high quality speakers. The optimal would be separates with a small tweeter enclosure set into the corner of the A pillar and windshield and dash (#D printing opportunity for somebody), a 4" mid int the stock location with a sound pad behind it, and a larger mid (6" maybe?) down low in the door - maybe an 8" could be fit there (again stick a sound pad behind it). There are some threads on here showing how people have done that.

I think that is about it - want to change the title to "What to do Inside the Doors" ??

[austinindian]

Merian, et al. Thank you so much for all this info and on fasteners. So, it seems I can remove the ThermoTec material from the inner door areas and use the material that Merian shows in his picture. Merian, what is that stuff? There is such a 'science' in doing sound dampening. I'm hoping for the best for the buck solution as there are so many other projects that need more attention. But, if it's as simple as me pulling the inner door area and reapplying with some newer material I'm all for it. Good idea for the door pocket. IdahoDoug, I'll look for the hatch panel thread.

[Gnarlodious]

[Merian]

the 'science' in doing sound dampening isn't too hard - just soph. physics (waves course) - a quick wiki search for resonance and the concept of "Q" will help understand dampening - as noted by someone in another thread dampening material doesn't attenuate sound (much) it alters the Q

VB2 on the outer seal (in place of the thin plastic door seal)

left coaster can use neoprene for those small seals; mine had a skin on it - yes, you guys in freezing areas should be careful in considering the right material, but the dust remnants I found in that spot seemed to indicate an open cell foam by VW (OTOH, at a cost, you can often improve on the factory)

now, somebody 3D print some tweeter enclosures for that corner at the base of the A pillar...