Putting Engine Parts Back - Best sequence

[kiwighia68]

I have to put my engine parts back on. It currently looks like this:

What would be the best sequence for putting everything back on? My tin-ware has been cleaned, derusted and painted. The carb has been refurbished. So has the distributor. The generator is clean and working.

Also: Is that a good place for the fuel filter?
_________________
Festina lente - hasten slowly
1968 Ghia named Emiko
Resto completed Dec 2015

[SoCalJes]

Best place for your fuel filter would be by the tank so your lines are clean all the way back to the engine.

As for order I'm sure there are many combinations but my best guess;

Tins
Fuel pump
Intake manifolds
Alt Stand
Alternator and fan
Distributor
Carb
Exhaust


I like the clean install, great job
_________________
Jesse
71 Ghia
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Just because it didn't come that way, doesn't mean it shouldn't have.

[swavananda]

Bolts on swing axle boots should sit at 3 or 9 o'clock to avoid to much pressure on the seams when flexing.

↑↑↑ that order sounds pretty good, except of course if you are running dual carbs , then leave the manifolds off till body is on.

And while you are at it ........a nice little fuel line grommet mod will give you peace of mind:

http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/vw-how-to-prevent-engine-fires-in-air.html

[Glenn]

[rockerarm]

Whats the deal with this long block? I would perform a compression check and/or a leakdown 'cause I have the tools.
R&R valve covers. Set engine up on #1 TDC. Prep to install distrib and get close to timing specs.
Lower cylinder tin, called sleds by some.
Heater boxes, and leave the nuts loose.
Cylinder head tin. Set your dual port intake on with the ends installed loosly.
Gen stand. Install fanshroud.
Install your exhaust system, loose.
As you can see many of the parts are installed loose to facilitate alignment with subordinate components.
You will see it all come together with this similar type of thinking.
Install incidentals, such as carb, distrib cap, wires, fuel hose, fan belt, etc.
You can time the ign with a test light or even a DVOM to get you close. Prime the carb with good gas and you should start.
I think this covers the basics.
Whatcha using for oil. Not knowing the engine, I would still suggest the Shell Rotella 30 weight. Easily avail and loaded with additives.
Hope this helps. Bill

[kiwighia68]

Thanks for the advice guys - SoCalJes, Glenn, Swavananda and Rockerarm (whose sequence has additional useful - necessary, in my case - advice}.

I now have enough for me to start and work my way through the rebuild.
_________________
Festina lente - hasten slowly
1968 Ghia named Emiko
Resto completed Dec 2015

[rockerarm]

[kiwighia68]

[rockerarm]

Thank you kimighia. I can be an azzhole if I need to get my point across. As simple as it is for people who have experience in successfully installing the tin and accessories it can be laborious. There is a lot to know. An advantage is the engine can be successfully assembled without the car.
Hope this helps, Bill.

[kiwighia68]

[rockerarm]

PS What do they mean when they say "longblock"?

A longblock is a reference to the assembled assembly from valve cover to valve cover.
FYI: a shortblock would be the above assembly minus the heads and piston/cylinders.
This is for our air-cooled stuff, as typical American engines with cast iron blocks with or without the heads is labeled a little bit different.
Hope this helps, Bill.

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It looks like the alternator stand baffle plates are upside down. In the picture it looks like the dents are raising up not sunk down. Could be just the picture though, it is tough to tell if it is an innie or an outie. The oil slings in a clockwise direction. So you want those plates blocking stuff coming from the left, a lot like the current US senate.

[KGCoupe]

[kiwighia68]

[kiwighia68]

[kiwighia68]