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1972 battery ground cable strap connection location
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bwaz
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's mine

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Xevin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice. I love having a 76 engine with a six rib in my 72.
Sent you a PM for something I'm working on.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Xevin wrote:
Wow! Looks great. I see some good times ahead for that couple.
Might want to get a screen on that Wink
I kid, you know that already but you know some yahoo would say that Laughing


The screen is installed now. I still have to install the seal, the heater fan, and put some better return springs on the throttle. After that it's time to adjust the gear shifter and figure out why the gas gauge went dead on me. Probably just a wire fell off when I had the cluster apart. See the new 6 rib?

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Xevin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! Looks great. I see some good times ahead for that couple.
Might want to get a screen on that Wink
I kid, you know that already but you know some yahoo would say that Laughing
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GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! Very Happy

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aeromech
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, here's a more recent picture

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Xevin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Xevin wrote:
Gary, my 72 ground is attached to the block like Ian's picture. But I have a mystery cable with a battery terminal clamp on one end and the other is bolted to the battery tray near the side marker. Always thought that was the orginal ground. I don't use it because the tray is cRusty. Thought the PO added the current strap.

Thanks for confirming my mystery strap. Nice mod on yours. Tip top work as usual.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, full disclosure. After I installed the rivnut and fabricated the new ground wire I looked closer and actually located the original grounding place which is a nut welded to the battery tray shown here with the red arrow. The blue arrow shows the modification I did. This is a 1972 bus.

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rustbus
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my 72 had a hole already here:

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not sure if it was original - cable connected to it bottom right...any chance you have a hole there too or did a PO drill mine?
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 9:18 pm    Post subject: Re: 72 ground cable strap Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
Both diagrams depict the battery being installed with the Neg terminal toward the rear of the vehicle.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bus_8_71_1700.jpg
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bus_8_71.jpg

Thanks to mayor ratwell. "09/28/04 Early battery negative was bolted to hole in battery tray. Yuck."
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72 bus in original condition

ratwell wrote:
68-72 bolted this way. 73-79 bolted above the battery in the front.
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72 ground strap

72 trans strap


This is the correct location for the ground cable on the 72 year bus.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The secret is owning a rivnut puller.
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bwaz
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the topic! I'm exactly at the same place with my 72 westy, it came with no motor and virtually no battery tray. I couldn't see anywhere for the negative cable to go from the battery. I've replaced the tray but thought that if the negative bolted to the new tray that the connection might not be as good as to the body. You're solution is great. Thanks again
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lil' Lulu wrote:
Now it looks just like my '74.


That was the idea
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 2:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now it looks just like my '74.
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Malokin Martin
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If one is going to ground to the body, it would make sence to ground it on the vertical panel between the light housing and the engine lid. That way the straps are tidy. Just an idea. Coincidentally, this was where my 72 was grounded (likely not OG). Yours does look nice though!
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just measured with my Fluke from battery fan ground ( 8 mm bolt on right side) to the blower fan mount- I get 0.4 ohms. This goes thru fan housing, engine, tranny, tranny strap, body. From the transmission bell to the heater box is 0.2 ohms. Probably same to the battery ground. So-if you ground to the body then you double the resistance, just a tiny amount but measurable.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paint the ground on the chassis or put some liquid electrical tape on it, so it does not corrode.
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-insta...pe%20lowes

Surprised you did not go to the battery tray.
Tcash


Last edited by Tcash on Sun May 10, 2015 9:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's what I did today
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That tells you if you have a problem. If you want to accurately measure and quantify the magnitude of the problem, you'll need to use a more advanced method.
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Ian
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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You guys are crazy! You use a "voltage drop" test in VDC to figure that kind of stuff out.
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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For reference, the ONLY way to accurately measure real low resistance is to (1) use a meter with 4-wire resistance measuring capability (various high end Fluke and HP meters support this), or (2) do it the hard way: pass a known current (100 ma works well) through the resistance and measure the resulting voltage drop. [This is what the 4-wire measurement method effectively does. The current source is contained inside the meter, hence the extra pair of test leads.]

R = E / I

If I = 0.1 amp, then R = E x 10.

Here's the schematic (from the Gallery) for the current source

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Trim R1 for exactly 100 ma current.

12 volts works well for the supply voltage.

Regular 2-wire ohmmeters (including my Fluke 8020B) can't accurately measure anything below, say, 10 ohms. Too many error sources.
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