New 2332 race engine 200 HP

vwracerdave · Posted: Mon May 18, 2015 5:53 pm Post subject:

With 84mm crank are Chevy rod journals necessary or will VW rods journals be OK.
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2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
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1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63

Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos

[email protected] · Posted: Mon May 18, 2015 6:00 pm Post subject:

I use Chevy with 84mm+. VW for 82mm down.
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modok · Posted: Mon May 18, 2015 6:05 pm Post subject:

I think the china H-beams today are the same outer dimension no matter if they are chevy or VW, they just make the hole smaller, so the bolts aren't any more compact. You can grind the cap thinner but the bolts stick out just as far. Stupid right??

I recall they USED to be chevy H-beams rods that gave more clearance than VW journal but they were....Eagle brand?? NLA

[email protected] · Posted: Mon May 18, 2015 6:10 pm Post subject:

This is probably right. I haven't measured in forever. They USED to be externally different, but that's probably no longer the case.

Dan Ruddock · Posted: Mon May 18, 2015 7:10 pm Post subject:

Take your pick, with a chevy journal the rod is stronger and with the VW journal the crank is stronger.

I would go with the stronger crank.

Dan

rrcade · Posted: Mon May 18, 2015 7:26 pm Post subject:

A 1800 lb. bug will run 11.80 with a 2276......

vwracerdave · Posted: Mon May 18, 2015 7:27 pm Post subject:

SCAT has 84mm VW crank & rods in stock. 84 Chevy cranks are 6 weeks wait. My old fashioned ways were against VW rods on 84 cranks but today Modok may be right. Hard to say.

Only going to be a 2 week wait for my Berg 3 1/2 Qt sump.

John, every part on your list was exactly what I had planned before I started this thread.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63

Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos

[email protected] · Posted: Mon May 18, 2015 7:32 pm Post subject:

Then either I'm not stupid, or I'm old fashioned too, OR you aren't as stupid as you thought you might be..... Laughing

raymon covey · Samba Member Joined: April 30, 2005 Posts: 189

The scat style rods are a little larger outside diameter than the Eagle style. With the chevy journal you can use the CB745 chevy style bearing and narrow and chamfer which is a race style bearing and better. This is a steel backed tri metal style race bearing. It can be had in a coated style bearing also. The vw journal crank will have a much better overlap between journals and less flex. You will need to look at the rod bearings a little more often. Choose one and hope for the best. By all means use a 4 quart sump either slim line or race. My 2 cents.

modok · Posted: Mon May 18, 2015 7:41 pm Post subject:

mark tucker · Posted: Mon May 18, 2015 8:23 pm Post subject:

ask scat about the rod sizeas far as weather it takes more clearancing. my 86mm stroke has 3/8" bolts,I was skidish to use 5/16 on my 84 strok.I like big bolts and I can not lie,when small ones fail things start to fly. granted thes have fairly short stroke&light pistons&pins....but.....Im still stuck in the 600+ci mode of things and build my vw as such.why?? because it dosent know it isant a 632 with CFE heads&2 1150 dominators.

[email protected] · Posted: Mon May 18, 2015 8:27 pm Post subject:

I don't think crank flex is going to be an issue with 220-230hp. Any good quality crank is going to work fine.

This isn't a 400+hp turbo engine, YMMV.
_________________
It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
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and get a 5% off code for use on one order for VW Parts ON OUR PARTS STORE WEBSITE, vwparts.aircooled.net

vwracerdave · Posted: Tue May 19, 2015 4:46 pm Post subject:

The SCAT sales rep just told me the outside dimensions of the 5.5 Chevy rod and the 5.5 VW rod are the same, just different sized hole in the big end.

I always thought cam clearance becomes the issue with 84 & larger cranks.

I decided to wait 6 weeks till the 84 Chevy crank is available.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63

Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos

modok · Posted: Tue May 19, 2015 4:55 pm Post subject:

The part of the rod with the bolts in it is what hits the cam. You want big bolts, you'll be grinding more.

Bajaman65 · Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 2:40 pm Post subject:

Dave, Have you thought bought going with a longer Rod? For a high RPM race engine I have found that 5.6 / 5.7 rods will produce better power at that high RPM range. I am all for short stroke engines for snappy auto-cross or off-road race cars. Just a thought, I have a 2332 with 5.325" rods and it revs quick but I also have a 2387 with 5.7" rods that will rev forever and makes a ton on top-end HP. I also like the JE pistons that I can have custom pin heights for the cylinders that I decide to run.

vwracerdave · Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:47 pm Post subject:

Just as an experiment, I'm considering ordering a split duration grind Engle cam with FK-45 intake FK-44 exhaust on 106* centers. Any thoughts..........
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63

Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos

modok · Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 9:22 pm Post subject:

That should be going the right direction for high RPM power.
Should work, as long as the heads aren't SHORT on exhaust flow, and header not too small.

Doug Berg · Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 9:25 pm Post subject:

My thought's are that way around "makes torque",,, the other way around "makes horsepower",,,, ie fk 44 in fk 45 out.... If you put your thumb over the end of your straw while it's in liquid,,,(pull it out) the fluid will stay in the straw!!! It's similar when the exhaust valve closes,,, putting a hold on the outlet!!! The more duration on the outlet,,, the further the pulse gets from the valve and the less hold it has on it,,, being closer to the collector "it has more leverage" on the pulse!!!! The other thing is when flowing "overlap" on the flowbench,,, pulling thru the outlet,,, (piston in the cylinder near TDC) and both valves "open " .075- .100 thou. the overlap flow will double,,,, when you move the outlet about .100 more than the inlet!!!! since you said 200hp I'd say fk 45 in fk 46 out on a 105 lobe center!!!! you can also stagger the rockers,,, 1.4 in 1.5 out!!! also if you advance "a 105 lobe center" 3 degree's you can get the outlet back to 108 lobe center and inlet is on 102 center!!! Doug...

Madfrog56 · Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 12:18 pm Post subject: Re: New 2332 race engine 200 HP

any updates on this Dave ?

mark tucker · Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 12:28 pm Post subject: Re: New 2332 race engine 200 HP

if it's a drag engine i would use a 5.6 or 5.7 rod.
IMHO, it is stupid to make the rods the same size with smaller hole, that just adds weight to the rod...I havent compared my 5/16 bolt rods to my 3/8" bolt rods. I would of thought the 3/8" rod would be at least .062 biger.but possiably not....or the 5/16 bolt rods may just be smaller Shocked


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