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head gaskets means new heads?
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chachi
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 7:26 pm    Post subject: head gaskets means new heads? Reply with quote

got the report i was expecting today, head gasket seepage on one side. mechanic, who has always done me right, says you need to replace the heads as well as they become pitted, making the sealing surface unsealable. is this the general consensus? it turns a $1500 repair into a $3100 repair, at least at this guy's shop.
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Corwyn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might as well. They're not too expensive and new one just FEEL good! Smile
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Corwyn wrote:
Might as well. They're not too expensive and new one just FEEL good! Smile


By not too expensive you mean double the price?
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sir Sam wrote:
Corwyn wrote:
Might as well. They're not too expensive and new one just FEEL good! Smile


By not too expensive you mean double the price?


Was that a constructive response, or just another question?
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the head surface that the small green o-ring seals on the side of the cylinder wall to the head cannot tolerate any imperfections. the small diam of the green o-ring requires a perfect surface...

makes the heads junk, unless you are handy with both a TIG and a flycutter milling machine/lathe

$3k+ air cooled and WBX rebuilds, a reason I've taken an alternate engine path. but that's another topic discussion.
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I did my heads recently, I replaced Rings, and Water Pump, and Thermostat Housing and the Rear Main Seal and a few more things that I don't recall. But I paid 1600 just for parts and did all the work myself. It sure does look nice with shiny new heads. The heads were only about 450.00 each, so the gaskets and other stuff just adds up. 3100 does not sound like a lot. I spent nearly 1 entire day on the Engine assembly, and another full 10 hour day putting it in and tuning, bleeding, etc.
Just my angle on this.

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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Corwyn wrote:
Sir Sam wrote:
Corwyn wrote:
Might as well. They're not too expensive and new one just FEEL good! Smile


By not too expensive you mean double the price?


Was that a constructive response, or just another question?


The OP has a price to replace the seals at $1500. Then the OP has a price for the job with new heads at $3100.

So when you say they are not too expensive, you of course mean that double the price at $3100 they are not too expensive.

And $3100 over $1500 just FEELs good, right?
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well... The labor and related materials are the same for a re-seal regardless which heads are used. In my book, $1500 is a little steep for a new set of heads. GoWesty sells a reworked set of new AMC heads for $1000. Van-Café sells rebuilt heads for $800 a pair. For that much more there could almost be some 2.2 pistons in there. JMHO...

Hans
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My '88 had a leaking head for sometime. Very slow leak. Of course it got worse. My reputable mechanic, swapped it out with a good used head. Price was very reasonable, under four bills.
That was about five years ago. All good at this point. If the one head is not leaking, and you're not in a position to do both, you might be ok just doing one. Mine was the passenger side (US). If yours is the other side, you may want to change out the water pump, while you're there. I had app. 140k miles when mine was replaced.

Otherwise do both, and change the water pump. Peace of mind comes at a price. You might want to change out some hoses since you're there. New radiator ? Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 9:37 pm    Post subject: Re: head gaskets means new heads? Reply with quote

chachi wrote:
got the report i was expecting today, head gasket seepage on one side. mechanic, who has always done me right, says you need to replace the heads as well as they become pitted, making the sealing surface unsealable. is this the general consensus? it turns a $1500 repair into a $3100 repair, at least at this guy's shop.



Pitted heads can still be reused IF the pits are not too bad. The jb weld technique filling the pits is pretty effective. The real problem with used heads is cracks, valves and guides. If the valves/guides are good and the heads have no cracks in the usual places, just jb weld the pits, sand smooth, reseal and be on your way. Thats the cheapest. But if your paying a mechanic to do that he may not be interested in the jb weld tech because he can't warranty that work. At $3100 repair bill i would be looking at a new power plant or diy the job. Good luck!
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was able to get 5 years out of a set of pitted heads, I filled the pits with a JB equivalent and then did a normal assembly with new upper and lower seals and rings.
After doing mine ,most people who have done the same thing say that you should not use the filler as it just introduces an non compatible compound and that your best bet is to clean out the pits with a Dremel tool and a balled and and put it back together.
Most shops will not do this because they do not want the possible warranty,but if it was running fine besides the head leak and money is tight then put it back together and go on with your life.

Stacy
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or have the pits welded up , and the mating surfaces milled--
If the heads are still in decent shape--no cracks.

And as long as you have them off, might as well do the valves & guides be done with it all.
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How many miles are on the engine? If the mileage is getting up there, say 140K miles then you aren't very far from a rebuild. If so it would be a waste to just redo the heads and it would make more sense to go ahead with a full rebuild.
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 2:01 am    Post subject: Re: head gaskets means new heads? Reply with quote

chachi wrote:
... you need to replace the heads as well as they become pitted, making the sealing surface unsealable.


I would treat the mechanic's advice as being "... you may need to replace the heads as well if they are too badly pitted, making the sealing surface unsealable."

I would inspect them once they are removed and then decide what to do based on the condition - if they are badly pitted then replace them or if they aren't then reuse them.

But first I would get alternative quotes for both options because your mechanic seems a bit pricey.
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 3:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using or not using the original heads becomes a Personal choice up to a point.
Read up and educate yourself about the various view points.

Bad cracks by the Valves will make this decision for you, it now becomes a I must replace statement rather than a should I replace question.

Surface pits, some say fix em with JB weld, some say weld and mill, some say clean and use.
The cylinder seal into the head is critical, pitting here will cause a combustion chamber leak.

When you are paying labor, I'd be surprised if your shop installs your pitted heads with ANY out the door warranty.

Used parts, especially used damaged parts offer no peace of mind about their ability to serve you long term. Very few shops will stand behind this repair.

The rebuilt heads from Bus Depot? I bought some..... They were so bad that I returned them! Very poor milling quality, sloppy the workmanship varied from head to head.

For the few extra hundred dollars, go with the new AMC heads on the market.

Now, just to muddy your waters..........

Do read up on their provided Exhaust valves though. You will need to decide to run them or replace them.
Will you buy the Heads with the valves already replaced?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=583560&highlight=heads

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 4:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do your research, as u already see opinions here run from one extreme to other end. I f reasonable minor pitting they will run indefinitely. My 2nd one over 330 k/ 12+yrs after a brng,ring etc to start, one even had the 'Bently ok crack in it, had a lot of hwy miles too. If it still in cond to get eng normally warmed up i would do a hot oil press test, see if bottom needs attention (brngs etc) if over 100k never hsd one apart that still had good brngs. If a long time keeper, big decision time. Get more than one opinion, search some local owners 4 a dependable shop, u can easily get a good screwing on these engines from a quick buck shop.
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it isn't leaking all that bad, add some Subaru Coolant Conditioner to the coolant and keep on driving.
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chachi
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
If it isn't leaking all that bad, add some Subaru Coolant Conditioner to the coolant and keep on driving.


this seems like the plan for now. the $3100 question is, what is "all that bad"? i lose about a half the reservoir in 2-3 weeks of regular, non-commute, daily driving.

i have considered a foreign power plant before but i can't shake years of watching subaru drivers have to get new head gaskets at ~160k; if i have to get head gaskets either way, i'd rather stay original. plus the only way it makes sense for me cost wise is DIY and i don't have the time. maybe in ten years.

the cost is probably shoppable, i may save myself a few hundred but i want to get it done right and do as many things as i can while i'm in there. rings? i'm shying away from the bottom end, frankly.
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 2:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The head gaskets on my '91 started leaking when I had about 120K miles on them and I used stop leak for many miles until I took the engine out of service at around 180K because the rod bolts were stretching. All the naysayers claim these rigs will die a quick death if you use stop leak, but it worked for me and now over a decade and a hundred thousand plus miles later, I still run the same radiator and front heater core in this rig.
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 4:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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