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Hurst Shifter
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you followed the installation instructions posted above?
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68Bug-lite
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
Have you followed the installation instructions posted above?


If you search the Samba photo Gallery for "Hurst Instructions" you'll see a much larger/ easier to read version.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need to search. Romeu posted it here.

APPLEGREENVW wrote:
Hurst shifter owner manual. Smile

http://www.isepix.com/LCsportsbug/Hurst.Saf-T-Trigger.Shifter.for.Volkswagen.pdf

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Motor60
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a wrong way to install the REAR shift bushing, which attaches to the trans? The rod bushing (in tunnel) is brand new, i just replaced it. Gonna try to replace the rear bushing as well, but I dont think it needs replacing, as there is no play in it.
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you installed the bushing under the shifter, did you install the wire clip around it? Did you rotate it so the split was at 9 O'Clock as viewed from the rear (to the left)?

The cage at the rear for the coupler is installed with the set screw up. Did you put a new one in? If so, they need to be welded first. There's a steel bushing that is crimped into the sheet metal cage. The crimp is known for coming loose on genuine VW couplers, so if you have an aftermarket one, it is likely to come loose too. When this bushing is loose, it can rotate causing your trouble. Inspect it to see if the set screw points exactly straight up. Then weld it there.

When you had the coupler off the selector shaft that protrudes from the trans, did you give that shaft a wiggle up/down, side-side to check for play? If it is excessive it will cause problems.

What's the play like in your Hurst shifter? Are the two white nylon blocks worn around the main pivot ball? Is the bottom shaft loose in the chrome/copper stick?
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Motor60
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just replaced the rear shift bushing with Urethane and HD one. There is no play in the trans shaft. And no play on the shifter. Its almost as if I have to oblong the holes in the shifter to get it to be in the right spot. What else can I check?
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Motor60
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's almost like the washer in the shifter is too small allowing more movement before it hits the stop for reverse.
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APPLEGREENVW
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very surprised, that you're having a hard time getting the Hurst shifter to work on your bug. Confused Shocked
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shifter will not work on my bug...I've already emailed the guy who rebuilds them in Florida, but have not gotten a response. Are you guys positive that there is no difference between the straight and curved Hurst Shifters?
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Motor60 wrote:
Shifter will not work on my bug...I've already emailed the guy who rebuilds them in Florida, but have not gotten a response. Are you guys positive that there is no difference between the straight and curved Hurst Shifters?
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Motor60
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It doesnt work Eh?
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Motor60 wrote:
Shifter will not work on my bug...I've already emailed the guy who rebuilds them in Florida, but have not gotten a response.

I doubt it is your shifter since it worked perfectly in your other car.

Motor60 wrote:
Are you guys positive that there is no difference between the straight and curved Hurst Shifters?

Positive. The only difference is the bend in the tube.
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Last edited by Bruce on Sat Jun 20, 2015 4:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some questions I asked last week that I don't see specific answers to. Can you confirm?

Bruce wrote:
When you installed the bushing under the shifter, did you install the wire clip around it? Did you rotate it so the split was at 9 O'Clock as viewed from the rear (to the left)?

The cage at the rear for the coupler is installed with the set screw up. Did you put a new one in? If so, they need to be welded first. There's a steel bushing that is crimped into the sheet metal cage. The crimp is known for coming loose on genuine VW couplers, so if you have an aftermarket one, it is likely to come loose too. When this bushing is loose, it can rotate causing your trouble. Inspect it to see if the set screw points exactly straight up. Then weld it there.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your shifter is fine. The problem is VW changed the way the shift rod runs down the car. You need a spacer under the shifter to bring everything into alignment.

The shifter ball is pushing your shift rod. Which is like pushing down the shifter to put it into reverse. That is why it is shifting into reverse with out pulling the trigger.

I had the same problem with mine. Add the spacer then loosen the shifter bolts, put the shifter into reverse then move the shifter frame forward and to the right to align it. Once there tighten the bolts enough to hold the shifter in place. Then move it through the gears and see how it feels. Tweak the shifter alignment if needed.

Once you are happy with it finishing tightening the bolts down and roll it like you stole it.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2015 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so I don't have the spacer plate BUT I added two washers underneath the shifter to act as a spacer. Then tightened it down but still could go into reverse without pulling trigger. I will try the above method by adjusting it while in reverse.

Now, I inspected the stopper inside the shifter and saw there is a SLIGHT bend as if the previous owner was pulling it to the left probably by hard shifting. Which would allow the shifter to move more to the left activating the reverse gear. That is the only fix I can think of if I can't get it to align using the above method
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2015 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok it's all fixed. Had nothing to do with shifter. Somebody told me to check the shift rod and make sure it was centered in the hole. Mine was definitely towards the left. I gently forced the rod to the right with long screwdriver causing the rod hanger to be bent to center rod. Re-installed shifter and it works!!

Thx for replies.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2022 8:17 pm    Post subject: Please help with the reverse (90°) plate dimensions Reply with quote

APPLEGREENVW wrote:
Here is a photo of a working Hurst shifter.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Hello. I recently bought a KG and the small, angled plate that acts like the reverse lock plate is missing. I can certainly build and weld a replacement, but I haven't found the dimensions. Any help will be appreciated.
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67rustavenger Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2022 8:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter Reply with quote

Welcome to the samba.

I don't think you need the reverse lock out plate. When using a Hurst sift lever.
The trigger is the reverse lock out.

I have a curved copper Hurst lever and ran it for a bit.
IIRC, I didn't use the lock out plate.

But if you need a pic of one. I have a loose plate on my work bench ATM.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2022 9:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter Reply with quote

67rustavenger wrote:
Welcome to the samba.

I don't think you need the reverse lock out plate. When using a Hurst sift lever.
The trigger is the reverse lock out.

I have a curved copper Hurst lever and ran it for a bit.
IIRC, I didn't use the lock out plate.

But if you need a pic of one. I have a loose plate on my work bench ATM.


Thanks, I think I wasn't clear enough. I do have an EMPI (knock-off Hurst) shifter. I think you are referring to the bottom plate (I do have the flat one mounted that came with the kit, no problems there). BUT, the one I'm referring to is actually within the shifter itself. It prevents from hitting reverse unless the trigger is activated. Here are some pictures from other posts, showing the correct /mounted piece, and a loose one (like the one I'm sadly missing since the PO didn't mind to keep it when it came loose (probably due to the lousy EMPI spot-welding?).
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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PeteSC
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2022 6:44 am    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter Reply with quote

I have an EMPI version laying around in the garage at home; I will measure the lock out piece when I get home tonight if no one chimes in with it sooner.
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