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Aluminum Crank Pulley Fretting
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fccperdiem
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 11:47 am    Post subject: Aluminum Crank Pulley Fretting Reply with quote

Have you guys seen this before? It seems my aluminum pulley started slowly wondering forward and aft on the crank snout. It was making contact with the VR sensor mounting bracket. When I pulled it all apart, I found the crank pulley also had some rotational play... maybe 5 degrees. The strange part is that the crank bolt was tight! The dark greasy-looking material is a combination of anti-seize compound from installation and aluminum dust from the fretting.

Should I chalk this up to a bad pulley, or a crappy install job (by me Embarassed ), and install a steel pulley?




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Stripped66
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some aluminum pulleys (SCAT for example) do not have (or hold...) an interference fit on the crank. The crank bolt torques tight because it is bottomed out in the snout. You need a spacer on the backside of the pulley.
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66brm wrote:
Bodacious wrote:
Why not just make a custom set of wires with a Y splice in them. Then you could just run one distributor.

I don't think electrickery works that way
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Bajaman65
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stripped66 wrote:
Some aluminum pulleys (SCAT for example) do not have (or hold...) an interference fit on the crank. The crank bolt torques tight because it is bottomed out in the snout. You need a spacer on the backside of the pulley.


I have this same problem with 'mostly Scat' pulleys, make sure you have the correct spacer and always use a very strong washer under the head of the bolt. The washers that come with most pulleys bend into the pulley when are tight. Good Luck and have Fun Wink
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Brian Anthony
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you check your crankshaft end-play before going back together.
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fccperdiem
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

50 miles through traffic and two hours later... New pulley in hand, with spacer. Will jump on the install shortly.

BTW... The CB Crank Fire pick-up wheel is mounted between the crank bolt and the pulley. I torqued it to 35 ft lbs (whatever the Bentley stated) when I installed the system. The bolt is considerably longer than stock, as to secure the timing wheel to the pulley. I made sure the bolt didn't bottom out before everything was seated and snug. Do you guys think the torque value should increase for the additional loading and grip length of the crank bolt? CB's instructions do not specify...

Thanks everyone!
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Dr OnHolliday
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^^ NO
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modok
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's amazing this doesn't happen more often.

The torque can be upped but the stock washer (or empi chromed POS washer) will just bend out of the way. need a stronger washer. That size bolt can withstand 100 ft-lbs.
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fccperdiem
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everything is installed. I used an anodized Scat pulley (only one available locally). The pulley went on snug, with a light film of anti-seize inside the hub and key way. I used the crank bolt to draw the pulley on. I torqued the assembly down to 40, then 45, then 50... Up to 70 ft lb. everything went together great, and feels nice and tight. I'll run it a couple hundred miles today, then recheck the torque.

Thanks for the input, everyone!
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Quokka42
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 4:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't be surprised if you've beaten it.
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Stripped66
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fccperdiem wrote:
The pulley went on snug, with a light film of anti-seize inside the hub and key way.


Are you running an oil filter? If not, remove the pulley and clean off that anti-seize.
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66brm wrote:
Bodacious wrote:
Why not just make a custom set of wires with a Y splice in them. Then you could just run one distributor.

I don't think electrickery works that way
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fccperdiem
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's full-flowed with a filter. Good call, though... The labyrinth seal does act like a screw.
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Stripped66
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fccperdiem wrote:
It's full-flowed with a filter. Good call, though... The labyrinth seal does act like a screw.


The labyrinth seal is not going to prevent anti-seize that built up on the back of the pulley's hub or in the keyway from getting into the oil...
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66brm wrote:
Bodacious wrote:
Why not just make a custom set of wires with a Y splice in them. Then you could just run one distributor.

I don't think electrickery works that way
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