Turbo questions that I can't find answers to....

[FRNKNSTNGHIA]

I am currently in the process of building a 1955cc Single Port with new heads and Dellorto FRD 34s. Aiming for 85-100hp and 100-120ft lbs.

I am considering the thought of adding a low boost blow-through turbo system, as I've seen people making upwards of 150hp and 180ft lbs on 1600cc single ports. So I assume it should be easier and less stressful on the 1955cc to make those numbers.

Just wondering if the Dellortos are capable of being modified for turbo use?

Also wondering if they make turbo hats for Weber ICTs or the Dellorto 34s? -I put Weber ICT cause I am already planning to modify Weber ICTs filter bases and tops to work on the Dellortos.

If they're not available I am sure I can have custom ones made using the ICT bases I currently have.

I plan on using a CB Performance Hideaway header setup, with a Schwitzer S2A or Airesearch T03 turbo.

[Quokka42]

Yes and yes. Pop over to shoptalkform where there is a sticky that covers all this.
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There has only ever been one man who was perfect, and they nailed Him to a cross.

[clonebug]

What vehicle are you putting this in???
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[FRNKNSTNGHIA]

1970 Ghia Coupe

[clonebug]

After doing a single carb blow through for two years and now with EFI turbo...my opinion is sell the carbs and go to FI. In the long run it would be cheaper.

I can't imagination the PITA it would be to swap jets in two carbs every time you need to make an adjustment when tuning.

Also .....why single port heads if you want to turbo it??? Let it breathe and you will get more hp out of it.
Give the engine boosted cool air and you will be thrilled with the power.

Here is a little video of what a turbo can do for you.
Go to 48 seconds to bypass the boring part.


Link

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[FRNKNSTNGHIA]

I really don't want to exceed a certain power limit. I want it to be reliable and consistent, so set it for certain boost level and leave it. I know people will say, you will be tempted to raise boost, yadda yadda.

I was planning on going to 29mm venturis and the biggest jets, etc that CB Performance offers for the Dellorto FRD 34s.

I'm using single port heads because as I said I'm not building this for high horsepower, want something super reliable. I've seen stock internal 1600cc single port make 150hp/180ft lbs with just HD springs and cleaned up ports on the single port heads. So I know the heads will flow plenty with a real port job.

So my thought process tells me the added 355cc of displacement will allow me to make similar power levels maybe even more with less boost. Which equates to less stress on the engine.

My single port heads will be ported, have 54cc chambers (not sure if I should go bigger) with Engle 100 cam with 1.25 rockers on intake side, maybe both intake and exhaust. As a NA motor I was going to set it up for 9.0:1 compression, which I think would be fine with the turbo setup.

With the 70 Ghia weighing approximately 1918lbs from articles I've found having 150hp would put it at about 1hp/12lbs which is similar power to weight as an S2000, so should be good for low to high 13s in the quarter mile, but I have no intention of drag racing it. And I know my Ghia will weigh at least 100-200lbs less.

Just want to be able to wind it out every so often on the street/highway, and surprise a few V8s.

If I was building a legitimate turbo engine I would have gone for Aircooled.net L5 turbo heads, t3/t4 turbo, EFI, etc. My budget doesn't allow this and I never ever intended to do so.

I figure I should be able to piece together the turbo kit for approximately an additional $1500 maybe less. That does not include cost of Wideband and dyno-tuning to set it up once and for all.

[clonebug]

Everybody will always say they will be happy with a certain hp. or boost level
I said the same thing.
I'll be happy will 7 lbs...........
Four years later I'm pushing close to 4X that pressure.

It's an addiction........let me know how it works out for ya..

As far as stressing the engine...your foot sets the power level whether you have a N/A engine or a turbo engine. I drive my buggy to work and hardly ever push it hard.
That video was the one time this year I have launched the buggy that hard and as you notice my take off is pretty soft. With a 3.13 second 60 ft. on that run it was a dog on take off.
I like my turbo for the mid range power it gives me and the street manners. It's not meant to be a race car.

I spent about $1300.00 to do my FI.
I'll bet I spent over half that amount just trying to get a single carb to work not including the time to pull the carb to change jets.
Add up the price of a set of carbs, 4 or 5 plus sets of each kind of jets, a couple different venturi sizes and all the plumbing you need to boost two carbs.
Now figure out the time it takes to pull all the plumbing off to get to the jets........I had mine set up where I could R&R carb and change jets in less than ten minutes. I doubt you could ever do that with dual carbs.

You can do whatever you want and I applaud you for trying to turbo a VW.
There are posts every day from people trying it or wanting to.
No one ever seems to post a video on their success so please do so when you get it going.
I like seeing what others do to make a turbo work on their project.

I know I have a lot of blood, sweat and tears into mine.....I'm lucky I have a very, very understanding Wife.
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[modok]

Blowing through carbs can work, but like he said you don't see many guys running like that.

Does require a fuel pressure regulator, sealed airboxes, a blowoff valve, wastegate, oil lines for turbo, ignition system that can retard with boost, and often very strange jetting. The widely varying intake temp can really mess with the carbs too, making it impossible to be tuned for all conditions.

For simplicity's sake I say do an old school drawthrough, or go fuel injection.
They both work great when done right.

[stan_tichomirov]

I'm doing a blow through experiment with my 1835 using some parts I've acquired recently, dual port with IDFs though. IMO, you are making it a bit more difficult by using single port parts, if only for the fact that nobody makes parts for such a setup.. but you could fabricate pressure hats yourself. You'll have to figure out what to do for timing, I already have a Blackbox so I'm planning to use that to alter timing based on manifold pressure. There was a guy who did a very inexpensive blow-through setup with Kadrons and it supposedly worked pretty well.

I have a pressure regulator that will require me routing a return line back to the tank. I also have a fuel pump off a Subaru to supply more fuel, I doubt my 3.5PSI Holley will be enough. Header I hacked up myself by cutting/re-welding a Baja header that came with parts I acquired. The CB header looks nice, but I think it would be a PITA to have the turbo located that low.

Re-jetting isn't what's scaring me off, I've already done a good amount of that. Taking hats off won't be that much more work. I already have plenty of jets and F2 tubes. I would imagine IDFs may be more tuneable though.

Much of this is temporary until I get things running.

Stan
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Aircooled.net
Jansen Enterprise
My 1835cc build
My budget 2276 build

[clonebug]

[FRNKNSTNGHIA]

Thanks for the info and comments guys. This isn't a sure thing just yet, motor is still in pieces, all the rotating assembly and heads arrived just last week and the B6 case that I thought was good was way beyond its life. So in the process of just buying a new aluminum case.

I already had the FRD 34s, my father had them on his 67 ghia back in the late 80s and early 90s. We pulled them off the shelf and completely disassembled them and rebuilt them with new rebuild kits.

Planning on using this kit here for piping:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1638577 $475ish

The clamps and silicone couplings I need will most likely be from siliconehoses.com and will be provided for free or next to free. Good friend is main distributor in USA.

Wastegate, BOV, MBC, and pretty much all turbo accessories will most likely be from Forge Motorsport and will get all at wholesale, so big savings.

Biggest venturis and jets that CB Performance sells will be roughly $120

I can't foresee that getting the turbo hats made could cost me more than $100 in materials, as the welding aspect would be next to nothing. Have good friend who is excellent at TIG welding.

But I was wondering if these could possibly made to work:
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3388

So my biggest issue would be getting a Schwitzer S2A and having it rebuilt or using a T03 flanged turbo.

Any recommendations on a turbo to use without having to modify the turbo flange that the header already comes with. Schwitzers S2As are almost non-existent. I want quick spool and smallest overall size.

[clonebug]

Picking the correct turbo is one of the toughest parts.

Many people have spent big bucks on a turbo only to find it won't boost.

I have used three different Subaru turbos and so far have not found one I didn't like. The best part about them is the most I paid was $60.00.

They do have a Subaru specific turbine inlet flange that no store bought header has. That is why turbo placement is an on going challenge for many projects.

I myself spent hours staring at the back of my buggy trying to figure out how to mount the turbo. I still would like to move it to add an intercooler but haven't come up with a better placement in the four years and 13,000 miles I have been running it.
I had to settle for a home made Water Injection system instead.
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[stan_tichomirov]

[modok]

For a single barrel carb you don't need a "hat"
You canjust connect a 2.5" or 3" tube to it. it's already round right?