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is my clutch still good??
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chriswilhelmart
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 12:27 am    Post subject: is my clutch still good?? Reply with quote

Hey guys! Im new here and i have a few questions after taking my engine out today to fix several problems in my 68 standard bug. first of all, the intake is icing up sometimes when its wet and damp out here on the Oregon Coast. So i figured my heat riser may be clogged with carbon. Second, my clutch has begun to slip when going up hills at highway speeds. the motor will start to reeeev up but i dont have any power.. Well, i THINK i found my answer, because this clutch seems to be loosing lots of material on one side. But what you do you guys think? Here are a few pictures.



I drove this bug to the beach today, and when i got home, after it had sputtered home, (it does that after its warmed up..) I decided "Hey, maybe ill try to take the motor apart today." and an hour and a half later, i had figured out how to take the motor out WITHOUT A ENGINE HOIST! wow, what a rush!

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Anyway, do you guys think this thing just needed to be adjusted or is it worth replacing "while im there"?

Also, there is a small port that has been blocked off (1/4" or so) that is at the top of the intake where the carb sits (single port engine) that is blocked off on my motor. Ill have pics of that tomorrow, but im wondering if anyone knows what im talking about and where it might go if i were to put a hose back on it, as it looks like it should have a hose on it..

As i was pulling the electrical apart from my coil, a few connections SNAPPED apart and broke from lots of corrosion, so ill be replacing that as well. mainly on the large gauge red wire that goes on top of the generator. is there anyway that my issue with the car running like crap once its warmed up, have anything to do with corroded electrical?

Thanks for any and all help my Samba friends![/img]
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Joe Bence
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

New clutch time..............
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hard to tell. Replace the disc if 7mm wrench is easy to slide on. Electrical fault would be random, not wait till warmed up.

How does pressure plate look?
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Air-Cooled Head
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree w/ both of the above.

Do the 17mm wrench trick.

If you think you're having clutch problems now, put it back it back in.
All doubt will be removed.
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scottmc
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No way is that disc good. Looks like down to the rivets on the worn side. Both sides should wear evenly. Slide the disc onto the input shift and make sure it slides freely. Also see the dark line in the middle? You will have a matching mark on the other surface.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air-Cooled Head wrote:

Do the 17mm wrench trick.
.


Confused
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kamesama980
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That clutch is TOAST (and probably whatever the thin side was touching as well).

Question to everyone: Is the VW clutch asymmetrical in that one side has to face the engine and the other faces the trans? sure looks like it and this one was on backwards but the splined part sticks out so far I can't believe it'd fit at all.

Yes, poor electrical connections can cause any and all sorts of problems, even in a carb/points engine.
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it were mine I would consider having the flywheel resurfaced. How is the engine to body seal in the car? How are the oil cooler seals? Just to name a few items to consider while in this state of repair.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kamesama980 wrote:

Question to everyone: Is the VW clutch asymmetrical in that one side has to face the engine and the other faces the trans? sure looks like it and this one was on backwards but the splined part sticks out so far I can't believe it'd fit at all.


Yes, other way one will not get the PP installed.
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Air-Cooled Head
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Air-Cooled Head wrote:

Do the 17mm wrench trick.
.


Confused


DUH! Typo. Embarassed
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chriswilhelmart
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the quick responses guys! What is the 17mm wrench trick exactly? the engine to body seal is shot, i should definitely get that replaced.

Question:
Where should i go to buy a rear main seal, and the engine to body seals, AND some GOOD door and sunroof seals (its a sun bug). Can i get the rear main and others from Napa or another parts store, or do i need to use better stuff? I dont want ANY leaks at the end of this. plus, do you guys think i should tear the heads apart and go all out? i really dont want to if its not recommended, but this thing is leaking like CRAZY from the rear main, and im sure other places too but im not sure where yet.

Thanks for the help!

Oh and the clutch will be getting replaced too, is that a Napa purchase as well?
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Think you mean the Flywheel seal, as it is on the front of the engine. Most any FLAPS should have that.
As for the rest would try Wolfsburg West. Though they have the FW seal also.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As for the heads and tearing into the engine, without any history or knowledge of how it is running... If it is running well, do a tune up and start saving for an engine rebuild. Plus it does not hurt to pickup a core engine to rebuild well before you have any problems with what you have now.
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chriswilhelmart
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im not sure what you guys mean by the 17mm trick?

I went out this morning and got a few more pics of the motor after tearing it down a bit more.

I have been told that the tin gasket underneath the generator pillar can leak oil, because sometimes its put on upside down. I dont THINK its leaking there, but i cant be sure, can you guys tell me if that looks good or bad? its just how it looked when i took the generator off.


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Its also leaking some really sludgy, almost honey feeling oil from what looks like the crank case underneath the fan shroud. you can see it in the next 2 pics. it looks like its either leaking from underneath the oil cooler, or possibly from the top of the head? what do you guys think?


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and lastly for this post, there is a considerable groove on the mating surface of the flywheel that mates to the clutch. it seems that clutch WAS digging into the flywheel. so should i opt for the 75 dollar lighter "performance" flywheel so my crank can spin faster, or should i just use this one as is?

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im on a budget, but i want it done right, so im willing to expand that budget if NEED be.

Thanks!
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chriswilhelmart wrote:
What is the 17mm wrench trick exactly??


The 7mm wrench trick. If the clutch disc is under 7mm, then for replacement. Unless the disc looks like yours, or there was slippage, then doesn't matter how thick it was. Replace pressure plate, disc, have flywheel machined or replaced, oil seal and transmission seal if necessary. And the throwout bearing for good measure.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you are going to drag race it, stay with stock FW.

Gen deflector tin should be turned 180 around so louver openings are facing right side of the engine.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep stripping the engine down to long block. Clean, clean and clean it some more. Retorque engine case fasteners and then the heads just like you would when assembling it. Install new seals for oil cooler and inspect for any cracks.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the disc does not slide easily on the transfer input shaft,it will wipe out the new disc. The disc needs to float between the flywheel and pressure plate when clutch is pressed or else it will drag and wear on one side. Don't put new one in without checking.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had one where the forward hub of the clutch disc was too thick and hit the inner diameter of the early throw out bearing.
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kamesama980
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be looking at a new pressure place and flywheel too. It doesn't have hot-spots: almost half the face is messed up. sometimes it can be ground out (by a machine shop) but given what happened I get they're good and deep.

Then figure out WHY it happened.
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