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Quitobus Samba Member
Joined: April 20, 2015 Posts: 12 Location: Durham, NC
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:47 am Post subject: Engine Compartment Seal alternative |
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There's a six inch section of my engine compartment seal missing.
Is there anything I could effectively use to patch this section without buying a whole new seal? |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50348
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:51 am Post subject: Re: Engine Compartment Seal alternative |
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Quitobus wrote: |
There's a six inch section of my engine compartment seal missing.
Is there anything I could effectively use to patch this section without buying a whole new seal? |
A new seal cost $25 these days IIRC and will not only be new, but should be the correct length. The seals that were being sold 10ish years ago were too short. Replace yours with your next parts order, this is a short lived item so yours is probably at the end of its life anyway. |
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aerosurfer Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2012 Posts: 1602 Location: Indianapolis, IN
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 9:20 am Post subject: |
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Copper Pipe insulation works in a pinch or move the gap to the top forward part of the engine over the transmission, coolest spot for the time being. This is assuming a t4 motor _________________ Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness
77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!
72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone) |
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akscooter Samba Member
Joined: September 25, 2008 Posts: 528 Location: Eastern Washington
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 9:35 am Post subject: |
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I have used some camping mat, the high density blue stuff that you sleep on, it is similar in it is closed cell foam, cut it into a strip length wise and make it about 3 inches wide, or that is 1 inch on each of the gap that you are trying to fill.... turn it on its side or leave it flat on the ground and slice it in the middle to a 1 inch depth on each side...... insert the slits into the tin and the engine compartment.... works quite effective to fill the gaps or if the actual seal has shrunk do to age and has formed a gap.... _________________ 1975 campmobile
1949 Ply Special Deluxe
1991 Custom 1200 HD Sportster XLH |
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deezal Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2008 Posts: 138 Location: pike county
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 9:41 am Post subject: |
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Be careful if you use the copper pipe insulation. I tried that and it blew out and got sucked in by the fan. Wildthings reply had it right. |
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 9:42 am Post subject: Re: Engine Compartment Seal alternative |
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Quitobus wrote: |
There's a six inch section of my engine compartment seal missing.
Is there anything I could effectively use to patch this section without buying a whole new seal? |
put the year your bus is into your avatar so the rest of us have some idea what year bus we are dealing with. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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Quitobus Samba Member
Joined: April 20, 2015 Posts: 12 Location: Durham, NC
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 10:10 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
put the year your bus is into your avatar so the rest of us have some idea what year bus we are dealing with. |
Done.
Thanks _________________ '74 Transporter - "Rosie" |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16970 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 11:08 am Post subject: |
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Lid seal or foam seal? _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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Quitobus Samba Member
Joined: April 20, 2015 Posts: 12 Location: Durham, NC
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 11:24 am Post subject: |
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The foam seal _________________ '74 Transporter - "Rosie" |
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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anything heat resistant that fills the space. Replacements are inexpensive. If there is a donor near you take of piece of that seal unless it crumbles. They can be replaced with the engine in the car. The only issue is if someone put an AC unit in the bus on the left side then a part of the apron gets cut so a piece will be missing there. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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mscaton Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2015 Posts: 16 Location: Shorewood, Wisconsin
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 10:53 am Post subject: Additional holes |
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I thought this thread might be a good location to post a follow up question. I've just replaced my seal. As discussed above, I came up about an inch short - but that should remedy with some strategic stretching.
My old heating system has been removed by a P/O. This leaves me with giant holes in the engine bay (pictures attached). Any thoughts as to what could be used to patch these up? I'm hoping someone has already thought of this and there's a product out there that I just haven't found yet, so I don't have to resort to a make shift patch...
Thanks,
Matt
Oh - and by the way - I just purchased my first VW last week and this is my first post.
_________________ ----------
1972 Type 2 Camper Bus
Last edited by mscaton on Fri Nov 06, 2015 12:06 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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JP6210 Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2015 Posts: 119 Location: Beaufort, NC
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 10:58 am Post subject: |
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SGKent wrote: |
anything heat resistant that fills the space. Replacements are inexpensive. If there is a donor near you take of piece of that seal unless it crumbles. They can be replaced with the engine in the car. The only issue is if someone put an AC unit in the bus on the left side then a part of the apron gets cut so a piece will be missing there. |
Not to highjack, but... I have a piece of the apron missing from an AC install- all thats left are the hoses... solution just to rebuild the apron with sheetmetal and weld in? _________________ '76 Chrome Yellow Westy "Tallula" |
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BUSBOSS Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2009 Posts: 2161 Location: Northern California
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 11:02 am Post subject: Re: Additional holes |
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mscaton wrote: |
This leaves me with giant holes in the engine bay (pictures attached). |
Try again. Read the instructions provided in the sticky section.
And congrats and welcome. _________________ All the redemption I can offer, girl, is beneath this dirty hood
1976 Westfalia
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (sold - but not forgotten) |
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BUSBOSS Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2009 Posts: 2161 Location: Northern California
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 11:04 am Post subject: |
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JP6210 wrote: |
Not to highjack, but... I have a piece of the apron missing from an AC install- all thats left are the hoses... solution just to rebuild the apron with sheetmetal and weld in? |
Best solution is to get the section from donor bus and weld in. I have done it so let me know if you have questions. _________________ All the redemption I can offer, girl, is beneath this dirty hood
1976 Westfalia
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (sold - but not forgotten) |
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mscaton Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2015 Posts: 16 Location: Shorewood, Wisconsin
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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BusBoss,
Thanks - pics updated. Thanks for the feedback too. I had a feeling the answer would include the word "weld." Was quietly hoping for something more like "tape" or "cut a pool noodle..."
Here's another question though. I still have a hole around the oil spout. Not a big gap - but if we really want the engine bay to be air tight from the bottom - how would this be addressed?
mc _________________ ----------
1972 Type 2 Camper Bus |
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BUSBOSS Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2009 Posts: 2161 Location: Northern California
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 12:38 pm Post subject: |
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Can you post a wide angle picture of your engine taken from outside the engine hatch?
From the angle you provided, I'd say you are better off reconnecting and going for the original configuration. Especially in WI.
If you are certain that you want to just seal it up, the easiest and most cost effective way is to cut some aluminum flashing and use some JBWeld or other metal epoxy to affix and then seal with seam sealer. Best to try and not make any additional holes in your existing tin with screws or rivets. I have even seen red neck patches that involve beer can cut outs. _________________ All the redemption I can offer, girl, is beneath this dirty hood
1976 Westfalia
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (sold - but not forgotten)
Last edited by BUSBOSS on Fri Nov 06, 2015 12:41 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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dwill49965 Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2005 Posts: 1396 Location: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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mscaton - no welding required to block off the holes in your tin. Get some exterior caulking - some kind of rubber butyl. Buy a cheap dryer vent with about a 1 foot section of aluminum ducting. Throw away the plastic vent. Use some tin snips (or maybe even scissors) to cut pieces of the aluminum ducting slightly bigger than the holes you want to seal. Caulk them in place - done. It will last for years, as it has on mine. _________________ Darryl
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'78 Westy, Boston Bob built 2.0 L, FI, MSD 6A
Meyer wrote: |
Lastly, you just referred to US citizens as 'Americans'. Exactly what kind of Canadian are you? From what continent? |
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BUSBOSS Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2009 Posts: 2161 Location: Northern California
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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dwill49965 wrote: |
mscaton - no welding required to block off the holes in your tin. Get some exterior caulking - some kind of rubber butyl. Buy a cheap dryer vent with about a 1 foot section of aluminum ducting. Throw away the plastic vent. Use some tin snips (or maybe even scissors) to cut pieces of the aluminum ducting slightly bigger than the holes you want to seal. Caulk them in place - done. It will last for years, as it has on mine. |
I was updating my response as you were typing dwill. I agree but suggest just buying a small piece of flashing rather than a dryer vent.
The donor section and welding method was for the other post (JP6210) where he needs to replace the missing lip section (not just existing holes in the tin). _________________ All the redemption I can offer, girl, is beneath this dirty hood
1976 Westfalia
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (sold - but not forgotten) |
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eche_bus Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2007 Posts: 1318
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