Engine Compartment Seal alternative

[Quitobus]

There's a six inch section of my engine compartment seal missing.

Is there anything I could effectively use to patch this section without buying a whole new seal?

[Wildthings]

[aerosurfer]

Copper Pipe insulation works in a pinch or move the gap to the top forward part of the engine over the transmission, coolest spot for the time being. This is assuming a t4 motor
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Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness

77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!

72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone)

[akscooter]

I have used some camping mat, the high density blue stuff that you sleep on, it is similar in it is closed cell foam, cut it into a strip length wise and make it about 3 inches wide, or that is 1 inch on each of the gap that you are trying to fill.... turn it on its side or leave it flat on the ground and slice it in the middle to a 1 inch depth on each side...... insert the slits into the tin and the engine compartment.... works quite effective to fill the gaps or if the actual seal has shrunk do to age and has formed a gap....
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1975 campmobile
1949 Ply Special Deluxe
1991 Custom 1200 HD Sportster XLH

[deezal]

Be careful if you use the copper pipe insulation. I tried that and it blew out and got sucked in by the fan. Wildthings reply had it right.

[SGKent]

[Quitobus]

[aeromech]

Lid seal or foam seal?
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Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
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Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[Quitobus]

The foam seal
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'74 Transporter - "Rosie"

[SGKent]

anything heat resistant that fills the space. Replacements are inexpensive. If there is a donor near you take of piece of that seal unless it crumbles. They can be replaced with the engine in the car. The only issue is if someone put an AC unit in the bus on the left side then a part of the apron gets cut so a piece will be missing there.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Randy in Maine]

$36? Just replace it.

http://www.busdepot.com/411813225

[mscaton]

I thought this thread might be a good location to post a follow up question. I've just replaced my seal. As discussed above, I came up about an inch short - but that should remedy with some strategic stretching.

My old heating system has been removed by a P/O. This leaves me with giant holes in the engine bay (pictures attached). Any thoughts as to what could be used to patch these up? I'm hoping someone has already thought of this and there's a product out there that I just haven't found yet, so I don't have to resort to a make shift patch...

Thanks,
Matt

Oh - and by the way - I just purchased my first VW last week and this is my first post.

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1972 Type 2 Camper Bus

[JP6210]

[BUSBOSS]

[BUSBOSS]

[mscaton]

BusBoss,

Thanks - pics updated. Thanks for the feedback too. I had a feeling the answer would include the word "weld." Was quietly hoping for something more like "tape" or "cut a pool noodle..."

Here's another question though. I still have a hole around the oil spout. Not a big gap - but if we really want the engine bay to be air tight from the bottom - how would this be addressed?

mc
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1972 Type 2 Camper Bus

[BUSBOSS]

Can you post a wide angle picture of your engine taken from outside the engine hatch?

From the angle you provided, I'd say you are better off reconnecting and going for the original configuration. Especially in WI.

If you are certain that you want to just seal it up, the easiest and most cost effective way is to cut some aluminum flashing and use some JBWeld or other metal epoxy to affix and then seal with seam sealer. Best to try and not make any additional holes in your existing tin with screws or rivets. I have even seen red neck patches that involve beer can cut outs.
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All the redemption I can offer, girl, is beneath this dirty hood
1976 Westfalia
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (sold - but not forgotten)

[dwill49965]

mscaton - no welding required to block off the holes in your tin. Get some exterior caulking - some kind of rubber butyl. Buy a cheap dryer vent with about a 1 foot section of aluminum ducting. Throw away the plastic vent. Use some tin snips (or maybe even scissors) to cut pieces of the aluminum ducting slightly bigger than the holes you want to seal. Caulk them in place - done. It will last for years, as it has on mine.
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Darryl
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'78 Westy, Boston Bob built 2.0 L, FI, MSD 6A

[BUSBOSS]

[eche_bus]

There is a seal for the tin that surrounds the oil filler tube. Look at BusDepot or AirHeads and you should be able to buy a new one. Here is a link to a reference page showing the tins and seals: http://www.partsbase.org/vw/type-2-t2-us-1976-11-engine-cover-plates/