| Author |
Message |
dwill49965
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2005
Posts: 1396
Location: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
|
 Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 12:51 pm Post subject: |
 |
|
BussBoss - yes, agree! I knew you were referring to welding the other hole, not the tin openings, but wasn't sure mscaton realized it.
And yes, you can beef up the block-off metal a bit - I've also seen people use a round electrical junction box blockoff plate to cover up the hole on the driver's side - the size is just right, and it is much heavier than aluminum ducting.
_________________
Darryl
--------------
'78 Westy, Boston Bob built 2.0 L, FI, MSD 6A
| Meyer wrote: |
| Lastly, you just referred to US citizens as 'Americans'. Exactly what kind of Canadian are you? From what continent? |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
THall
Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2010
Posts: 324
Location: Verona, WI
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 1:01 pm Post subject: Re: Additional holes |
|
|
| mscaton wrote: |
| Oh - and by the way - I just purchased my first VW last week and this is my first post. |
Congrats on the purchase...always nice to see more Wisco folks on the Samba.
Now go make sure your fuel lines are in good shape... 
_________________
'78 Westy - 2.0 FI |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jtauxe 
Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2004
Posts: 5780
Location: Los Alamos, New Mexico
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 1:20 pm Post subject: Re: Engine Compartment Seal alternative |
|
|
| Quitobus wrote: |
There's a six inch section of my engine compartment seal missing.
Is there anything I could effectively use to patch this section without buying a whole new seal? |
I bought another length of foam seal and use it as stock to fill in missing bits like this. It is useful to plug other holes in the tin as well.
_________________
John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
mscaton
Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2015
Posts: 16
Location: Shorewood, Wisconsin
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 1:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
This site is great. First question ever and I have a solution I can handle before the sun goes down. Love the JBweld and sheet metal idea. I can do that! Never really crossed my mind and I think it will work great. I'll track down that oil filler ring as well.
Pic of the full engine now attached. You're right. I need to figure out a heating solution. Picture of the remnants of the old heater is now attached as well. I guess the P/Os went through a few different solutions. I'm leaning towards a 12v DC Thermal Ducted Heater... but I'll save that discussion for another thread.
Thanks for the seal solutions!
Matt
_________________
----------
1972 Type 2 Camper Bus |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
mscaton
Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2015
Posts: 16
Location: Shorewood, Wisconsin
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 1:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| dwill49965 wrote: |
| I knew you were referring to welding the other hole, not the tin openings, but wasn't sure mscaton realized it. |
You're correct - I figured out we were discussing different issues on my next re-read. Thanks for the clarification.
mc
_________________
----------
1972 Type 2 Camper Bus |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 2:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Just buy a large can of beans or other food and cut the top off the can to open it. You now have a nearly perfect steel patch for the one side. Once you have emptied the can fully then remove the other end of the can followed by cutting down the side of the can near the seem with a pair of snips. Flatten the metal for the sides and cut out a patch for the oval hole. Use a couple of sheet metal screws to hold the patches in place and seal them well with RTV silicone. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
BUSBOSS
Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2009
Posts: 2161
Location: Northern California
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 2:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Great. Glad to help.
This is totally unsolicited but I'd also move that fuel filter. A leak from there will drip right onto an electric source. I prefer a metal filter down below.
_________________
All the redemption I can offer, girl, is beneath this dirty hood
1976 Westfalia
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (sold - but not forgotten) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
BUSBOSS
Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2009
Posts: 2161
Location: Northern California
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 2:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Wildthings wrote: |
| Use a couple of sheet metal screws to hold the patches in place and seal them well with RTV silicone. |
I like the Mcguyver approach but I'd pass on drilling into otherwise unmolested tin in case you or another future owner wants to go back to the original heat exchangers.
_________________
All the redemption I can offer, girl, is beneath this dirty hood
1976 Westfalia
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (sold - but not forgotten) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 2:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| mscaton wrote: |
BusBoss,
Thanks - pics updated. Thanks for the feedback too. I had a feeling the answer would include the word "weld." Was quietly hoping for something more like "tape" or "cut a pool noodle..."
Here's another question though. I still have a hole around the oil spout. Not a big gap - but if we really want the engine bay to be air tight from the bottom - how would this be addressed?
mc |
Welding isn't necessary. I did this repair to my old '74 when I first bought it.
It is just a piece of flat metal that was cut to fit and attached with sheet metal screws and caulk. This second pic is a picture of a 411/412 rear corner tin which works well with the above patch. An equivalent can also easily be built from a piece of flat sheet metal with just making a couple of very minor bends.
. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Globespotter
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 1770
Location: Newmarket, ON
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
BUSBOSS
Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2009
Posts: 2161
Location: Northern California
|
| Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 2:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Top is easiest. Seam at top. Shiny side down.
_________________
All the redemption I can offer, girl, is beneath this dirty hood
1976 Westfalia
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (sold - but not forgotten) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
CoachL
Samba Member
Joined: March 12, 2017
Posts: 9
Location: Minneapolis
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 5:34 am Post subject: Re: Engine Compartment Seal alternative |
|
|
Realize this is an old thread, but wondering if anyone has additional insight on how to close this gap. PO had the AC unit and I have removed it. Have attempted to pound some aluminum to create a good match. Have thought of using some Super Alloy 1 (https://www.muggyweld.com/product/super-alloy-1/) to join metal to metal in this area as well.
Thanks in advance for any insight provided here. Need this filled up before I can start driving. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
richparker
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2011
Posts: 6981
Location: Durango, CO
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 6:21 am Post subject: Re: Engine Compartment Seal alternative |
|
|
The correct way would be to cut out of a doner bus and weld it in.
The redneck way would be to buy some root flashing from HD. Use some tin snips to cut the shape you need, make or big so it over hangs a little, drill some holes and rivit the flashing to the engine tin. Chug a PBR and hit the road!
_________________
__________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
calvinater
Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2014
Posts: 3328
Location: 802 The Pointless Forrest
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 6:34 am Post subject: Re: Engine Compartment Seal alternative |
|
|
Think you got that backwards. First the PBRs then use the cans to make the patch, then have another and hit the road. 
_________________
"Albatross"! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:21 am Post subject: Re: Engine Compartment Seal alternative |
|
|
This is where the repair I showed above comes in handy, because you are dealing with flat panels verses formed ones. The 411/412 rear corner tin can either be bought from the classifieds or made easily enough from flat stock.
You would need to cut away the rest of the "humped" corner tin in the body, not a big deal.
A bonus of using the 411/412 style tin is you will save a few minutes on each engine removal in install. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
