AutoStick problem

[Marcdeb]

I'm Fairly new to VWs and especially the AutoStick. Looking for some help.

Bought a 68 Ghia AutoStick in May this year. It has only 23,000 miles. Did most of the basic maintenance and put 700 miles on it over the summer. I changed the transmission oil, but not the ATF yet. Car is now parked for the winter and the engine is out for maintenance, detailing, and addressing minor oil drips. Car ran very well all summer.

On the day I dropped the engine, I moved the car twice and both times I had trouble moving the stick out of gear into neutral. First time went into reverse just fine but stick seemed stuck but with some extra force it finally went to neutral. Second time, I put the car in "1" as usual, drove forward and again, the stick did not want to move to neutral, but with some extra force it did.

I thought about the switch at the base of the stick, but if that was the issue, wouldn't it fail moving in and out of gear? Same with a vacuum leak right?

So what would be suspect on the AutoStick for not coming out of gear into neutral, yet move easily into gear? Engine won't be back in car until spring but wanted to get information before engine goes back in.
_________________
Marc
68 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Autostick
71 Karmann Ghia Cabrio

Previously Owned:
2011 VW EOS Hard Top Conv
2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T Conv
2003 Saab 9-3 SE Conv
2001 Saab 9-3 Conv
1998 BMW 3 Series Conv
1997 Saab 900 Conv
1997 Mazda Miata

68 Ghia Vert Survivor with 22,350 miles: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768107&highlight=
71 Ghia Vert Restoration: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=726710&postorder=asc

[Redlabel6]

That is a strange one! Have you checked the coupler under the rear seat? That could be worn. The only other thing I can think of might be a leak in the servo or an internal problem in the transmission.
d
_________________
1957 Oval Window Beetle
1973 Karmann Ghia Coupe
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=666792&highlight=73+coupe

[vwfreek61]

My first guess would be the switch at the shifter. The neutral switch on the nosecone of the transmission is wired so that the control valve will actuate when the shifter is in neutral.
_________________
Kenneth
1964 Bug with Saxomat
1976 VW/Harley Trike Autostick
1987 Vanagon Westy w/Subaru EJ25 and reversed 4EAT

[Marcdeb]

I'm trying to think logically. If I understand correctly, here's what I'm assuming.

The switch at the shifter seems be working if it goes into gear...
The neutral switch seems to be working since it allows the car to start...
The control valve seems to be working if I can shift into gear....

I'll take a look at the coupler tomorrow.
_________________
Marc
68 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Autostick
71 Karmann Ghia Cabrio

Previously Owned:
2011 VW EOS Hard Top Conv
2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T Conv
2003 Saab 9-3 SE Conv
2001 Saab 9-3 Conv
1998 BMW 3 Series Conv
1997 Saab 900 Conv
1997 Mazda Miata

68 Ghia Vert Survivor with 22,350 miles: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768107&highlight=
71 Ghia Vert Restoration: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=726710&postorder=asc

[Marcdeb]

I think the shift coupler looks very good, but I have no experience with this. The engine is not in the place. I moved the stick through
all positions twice and I see no slop. The shipping seemed smooth to me. I am hoping to somehow verify that the transmission is ok
before the engine goes back in.

_________________
Marc
68 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Autostick
71 Karmann Ghia Cabrio

Previously Owned:
2011 VW EOS Hard Top Conv
2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T Conv
2003 Saab 9-3 SE Conv
2001 Saab 9-3 Conv
1998 BMW 3 Series Conv
1997 Saab 900 Conv
1997 Mazda Miata

68 Ghia Vert Survivor with 22,350 miles: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768107&highlight=
71 Ghia Vert Restoration: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=726710&postorder=asc

[sb001]

It could be the shifter contacts, but WAAAYYY more likely the clutch servo canister diaphragm is damaged (i.e. torn) and is not holding as much vacuum as it needs to. I know, you're thinking "well wouldn't that affect getting it into gear also?" but it's been my experience that a torn diaphragm will lots of times still allow going into gear OK but not coming out, I suppose this is due to the fact when putting the car in gear the clutch servo is simply releasing the clutch back to its engaged position- it's when you are trying to pull the car out of gear into neutral and the clutch arm has to be pulled to disengage the clutch that the vacuum signal needs to be strongest.

Very easy to check both- follow section 3.7 here on this page to check/ adjust the shifter contacts:

However, since it's impossible to actually see the contacts when you're doing this since they are hidden within the gear shift lever housing, I usually take a multimeter set to ohms (for continuity check), place one probe on the top piece of the shifter (that contains the upper contact) and one on the lower contact wire, and screw the top and bottom contact pieces together until they are touching and I see resistance reading on the meter, then slowly unscrew the top section until I lose the reading on the meter. Works great!

To check the clutch servo canister, pull off the left rear tire to gain access to the clutch servo canister:

Pull that vacuum hose off the canister and cover the port with your thumb. Then grab the clutch servo arm:

And pull outward on it, see if it stays in the outward position. If it slowly retracts back into the canister, your diaphragm is shot.
_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.

1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor

[Marcdeb]

Great troubleshooting help. All the information and pictures are greatly appreciated. With the engine out, this should be easier to access.
Thank you.
_________________
Marc
68 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Autostick
71 Karmann Ghia Cabrio

Previously Owned:
2011 VW EOS Hard Top Conv
2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T Conv
2003 Saab 9-3 SE Conv
2001 Saab 9-3 Conv
1998 BMW 3 Series Conv
1997 Saab 900 Conv
1997 Mazda Miata

68 Ghia Vert Survivor with 22,350 miles: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768107&highlight=
71 Ghia Vert Restoration: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=726710&postorder=asc

[Tom K.]

I think your transaxle is fine assuming you can move in and out of gears with the engine off (correct?). If it only gets stuck with the engine on, then it's something related to your clutch engagement. Probably your servo diagram has a hole as sb001 suggests or maybe a vacuum hose is leaking?
_________________
'91 Vanagon Westfalia
'70 Beetle Convertible
'71 Super Beetle Semi-Automatic: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=714131&highlight=
'65 Ghia: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=762478&highlight=

[Marcdeb]

[Marcdeb]

Servo holds nice and tight. However when I went to remove the vacuum hose, the hose spun freely on the port. Didn't even have to loosen the clamp, it just slid off easily.

I then tested the servo as described by sb001 and with the port sealed, the held in place just great. After putting everything back together I checked the rest of the vacuum lines and I found 3 other vacuum lines that had very loose clamps. Is it feasible that maybe the hoses sealed adequately in warmer summer weather, but as it cooled off in November, it allowed the seals to not seal as well? It was a cold day when it acted up. I'll check everything really well before the engine goes back in.

I plan to do a lot of detailing so the servo will be coming out to get cleaned up and painted.

_________________
Marc
68 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Autostick
71 Karmann Ghia Cabrio

Previously Owned:
2011 VW EOS Hard Top Conv
2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T Conv
2003 Saab 9-3 SE Conv
2001 Saab 9-3 Conv
1998 BMW 3 Series Conv
1997 Saab 900 Conv
1997 Mazda Miata

68 Ghia Vert Survivor with 22,350 miles: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768107&highlight=
71 Ghia Vert Restoration: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=726710&postorder=asc

[Redlabel6]

That well could be your problem.
You may want to consider rebuilding the servo once you get it out.
It's much easier to get at with the engine removed. if you do, make sure you put the adjustment rod back at the same point. Even better, go through the adjustment section of the Bentley and get it set up correctly.
d
_________________
1957 Oval Window Beetle
1973 Karmann Ghia Coupe
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=666792&highlight=73+coupe

[Marcdeb]

[Redlabel6]

I mean you open it up and replace the diaphragm. I did mine 4 years ago and have had no issues.
I haven't heard much of folks having problems with the kits. That's not to say it isn't happening!
d
_________________
1957 Oval Window Beetle
1973 Karmann Ghia Coupe
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=666792&highlight=73+coupe

[sb001]

[heimlich]

When rebuilding the servo you have to be careful with the rubber piece in it. It all gets clamped together. If you tighten everything down too much it cuts the rubber piece where all the clamps fit together. The older servo kits seemed to have thicker rubber. The newer ones are thin in comparison.
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