Renogy Solar

[Chancebud78]

Morning Everyone

I am looking at ordering a solar panel for the van. I like how these look to fit in the luggage rack and are much cheaper than the GoWesty kit. Has anyone ever used these? Is this all I would need?

http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-100W-12V-Mono-Portable-Solar-Suitcase-p/kit-stcs100d.htm

I am new to solar power so any information would be greatly appreciated.


THANKS
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1985 Vanagon Westfalia- "Moon Unit"
2009 Audi A4

[rilcombs]

This flexible panel is an interesting option as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Renogy%C2%AE-Monocrystalline...+panel+kit
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'87 Westfalia
Instagram: rilcombs

[ng]

I just ordered the Renogy 100W suitcase model this morning. I had been planning on that one for a while.

If you read through some of the solar threads you will learn that Samba member Howesight has this Renogy set-up, and gives positive feedback in a few different places.

I also agree it is better than the GoWesty offering.
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1986 Syncro Westy "Braunbaer"
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=607112

[kamzcab86]

[TequilaSunSet]

Funny... I just bookmarked the 200W bundle on Ebay... close to pulling the trigger
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Don't harsh my mellow...
1985 Hightower Vanagon 1.8T- Gone
1972 Panel Bus- Gone
1967 Bug- Gone
1964 Euro Sunroof Bug- Gone
1969/72/63 Sunroof Bug- Gone
1975 Brazilian Bug in the Philippines 🇵🇭- New to me

[ThankYouJerry]

Renogy seems like "the" company to go with. For the longest time I had intended on going with their 100W suitcase w/controller (PWM) but now I'm leaning toward two of their 100W flexible panels mounted on my Thule box. I'm a little confused on which of their controllers (PWM, MPPT, how many amps) will be best for my set-up so I'm gonna give them a call soon and talk it over with one of their techs.
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1990 Multivan - "Ohana"
1.8T, Auto w/3.27 R&P + Peloquin TBD

[newfisher]

I run their hard mount 100w panels and have a 65w folding panel to chase the sun without moving the van when set up.

Wouldn't hesitate to do this again.

[Vinzanto]

Not familiar with this brand but I have been extremely happy with my Windy Nations solar setup:

http://www.windynation.com/Monocrystalline-Solar-K...p=YzE9MzA=
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1984 Vanagon Westfalia Wolfsberg

[david2676]

Things to consider !

1. if you park in the shade and do not move for days being able to move your panel into the sun is important. In my case i drive daily and I drive during the day.

2. How much juice do you really need, getting DC chargers and avoid using a DC to AC inverter will save you 15 to 25% The DC chargers are inexpensive.

For me having a suitcase panel was one more thing to move around if I had one I would not mount it on my car, if i ever need to I will get a second panel and that panel will be a suit case or moveable panel. I am so unlikely to climb to unhook the panel and put it back ... I am to lazy for all of that. I have yet to run out of juice.

If i had to do it all over I should install the second battery and go camping to see if I ever ran out of battery. There are also some really cool portable power supplies out that are about the cost of a solar set up. they could charge while you driving and give you an Aux battery setup. Solar looks cool but in my case I am always moving during the day time, my alternator charges the battery long before the solar. I park in the shade... I really do not know how much use I get from having solar except when parked in my driveway.
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64 bug
91 Vanagon/ Subaru swap Westfalia

[Dave Wood]

I have the standard renogy 100 watt panel mounted on my roof. Its removable but I don't think I'll ever have to remove it to locate the sun. I only run DC connections and so far have been pretty happy with the setup. I did not want the hassle of having to setup a solar panel when I got to camp.
I don't use too many devices, maybe a couple led lights, low power fan, cell phone, and a tablet. But the tablet is usually charged when we leave and when camping would only really need to be charged once again. I run the fridge off propane.

For me renogy with a single mounted panel is a perfect solution
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Dave
87 Vanagon GL

[Howesight]

I wrote a long and detailed response yesterday, only to have it disappear when my internet connection burped.

So here is the short version:
1. The GoWesty 80Watt kit ($449) is actually the same kit Zamp Solar sells, with a minor change or two. Considering Zamp Solar's retail price ($538, see: http://www.amazon.com/Zamp-solar-ZS-80P-ZAMP-SOLAR/dp/B00K1LBVKG ), the GoWesty price is not marked up.

2. There are only three other folding panels 80 watts and over that will fit in the Westfalia luggage rack:
a. Renogy 100W: $279 on amazon;
b. GoPower 80W: $387 on amazon;
c. GoPower 120W: $549 on Amazon;

I have looked at all the above and, even if price were not a factor, and they were all in the $450 to $550 range (they aren't), the vastly superior charge controller supplied with the Renogy unit would seal the deal for me.

While not knocking GoWesty, they supply convenience at a higher price. I particularly like their nut-and-bolt and complete lighting sets that save me time (and money too!). For the budget-conscious or those willing to figure things out and solder, glue, weld, etc, better deals are often available. I will often pay more for convenience. I will not pay more, however, for less performance. But that's just me.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[kbeefy]

[ThankYouJerry]

[madspaniard]

[thatvwbusguy]

Ambient temps, frequency of opening the fridge and even the color of the van can all prove to be major factors in battery life when running a DC fridge.

Most DC refrigerators have a low voltage cutout around 10.0-10.3V. If a battery is considered to be working fine until it hits this voltage, it will could give you an extra day of camping when compared to a more reasonable approach that monitors and limits the depth of discharge before recharging to about 50% or less.

Allowing any battery to reach a deeply discharged state on a regular basis has a negative impact on battery lifespan. This is the reason that some people have to replace auxiliary batteries every 1-2 years vs. others who get 5-6 years or more between replacement intervals.
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Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH


If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion.

[captcory]

I have a norcold which draws 3.1amps when running. I have a 55AH deep cycle AGM battery. I get about 20 hrs. The fridge runs a lot down here in south west florida. I keep it packed with frozen water bottles in all the unused space to help out. I also have the renogy 100w panel. I plan on adding another 100AH AGM. I would like to run the fridge for the whole weekend. The amount of time that you can run the fridge also depends on how cold you set the temp.
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Cory Cotherman

[kbeefy]

[newfisher]

My 100w renogy and 140ah Interstate under the rear seat.have been keeping my Edgestar.running for months.

[ThankYouJerry]

[yellowsub]

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100W-Mono-Starter-Kit/dp/B00BFCNFRM

I purchased the above kit, and the width is just right for my top, right behind the luggage carrier. I initially pulled the wires under the top, but caused a water leak due to the rubber seal being lifted and water coming in when raining. I decided to do "the right thing" for sealing them, and used the gland-based connectors. They were perfect, other than being a bit short to my taste (barely a few threads holding them on).

I used either of these (not sure which):
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-14350
or
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-14353

I DID have to scrap the flocking off so I could get them started, and had to make 110% sure they were not cross-threaded, as the clearance was minimal (and I was doing it solo).

I wired them with 10g 2-wire connectors like these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057ZQJ12

with the holes positioned near the front edge of the poptop over the driver-side. I made sure to have enough clearance to clear everything underneath while the top was down, of course, but had to lift it a bit so I didn't poke my canvas.

As to performance, I later decided I didn't like the controller it came with (only one battery bank) and purchased the following controller to power both battery banks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IMIBN62
and the controller for watching how much juice I bring in:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SW1N844

So far, my batteries have not dropped below 12.4v for the house and 10.2 for the starter (expected due to the starting load, but still not bad for an old POS I have not swapped out yet).

YMMV, but I would stand solidly behind the Renogy panel (over 1 year in use) and the 2-bank controller (6 months in use). If I could find different glands that had a bit more thread through-length, I would use them, but for $0.29 each, I made them work. The biggest "complaint" with the panel is it gets dirty. Easy fix: when at the gas station, people look at me funny when I am squeegeeing what looks like my roof!

(Sorry if I hijacked, 1st post and all).