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Vee Dub Nut's 68 Westy
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richparker
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting the late box the fit is a PITA, you have to fabaciate a bunch of stuff. Unless you have your own shop or a great mechanic/fabaciator I would not do this. I agree that it could be hit or miss with a remaned box but mine ended up being nice. This was an upgrade I'm really happy I did.
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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

richparker wrote:
Getting the late box the fit is a PITA, you have to fabaciate a bunch of stuff. Unless you have your own shop or a great mechanic/fabaciator I would not do this. I agree that it could be hit or miss with a remaned box but mine ended up being nice. This was an upgrade I'm really happy I did.


Looks pretty straight forward to me... Well within what I can handle in my garage I think.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=584922

Summary: open the hold in the frame slightly, and move one bolt hole. Beyond that, you just need a different drop/pitman arm and that's it.
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74 Transporter (2.0 T4, SOHC EJ25) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

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richparker
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I look forward to your posts on the conversion.
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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

richparker wrote:
I look forward to your posts on the conversion.


Haha... Like I said, I still haven't decided. If its truly a better steering box, I'm willing to do the work to convert. If the new TRW boxes are still a crap shoot, I'd stick with an early rebuilt box. Choices choices...
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67 Beetle (1500sp, 1776dp, 1915NA, 1915T fuel injected, 2276NA, 2276T fuel injected, 2084NA, 2056 T4, back to the trusty 1600dp)

74 Transporter (2.0 T4, SOHC EJ25) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 10:51 am    Post subject: Pop Top Rebuild Reply with quote

Been a little quite in the thread lately. Happy to report that we have mostly just been enjoying the Bus. No real long trips here yet, but more and more run arounds here locally. Looking forward to some cooler weather setting in around here.

One big project that has been tackled as of this weekend is the replacement of the pop top. My original top (68 one year only smooth top) was in poor shape. It has a ton of holes drilled in it for various wood and aluminum supports one of the PO's installed to "improve" it, along with a big concave section right in the middle, a broken front hinge, and a wood frame that was falling apart.. The combined result of those was a top that didn't open correctly, and leaked with any sort of rain. I ran an ad here and managed to find a replacement top locally. In fact, it was only like 10 minutes up the road from my place.

In hindsight though, I probably should have passed on this particular top. Although it didn't have the hole issues, all the wood was rotten and the fiberglass was very weathered. After working with it I also realized it has a lot of stress cracks in the gel coat. Nevertheless, I bought it and rehabbed it, and it still is an improvement over what I had. I think though, that this might not be the last time I try to rework/improve the top situation.

Here is what I picked up. I'm only using the pop up section, so I do now have an extra complete luggage rack.

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I started out by taking a bunch of measurements and ripping out the old wood. I picked up some replacement wood for the long runners on each side, and then used some left over plywood around the house to cut out the curved bows that run across. A few pics of that process:

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Final frame built up. It turned out ok, but I'm definitely NOT great with wood. The curvature of the bows were a little hit or miss. I only had a jig saw to work with, so there is some variation there. In the end I opted to bolt the frame back into the top with some small carriage bolts going together. Admittedly that's not as nice as a full glassed in frame, but decided that it was the better route given the variability of the frame and the condition of the replacement fiberglass top itself.

Frame ready to go in. I put a bead of silicon down before laying the frame in. Then proceeded to install the bolts.

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After that was done I flipped it, sanded it, and painted it. Cleaned up pretty nice given its poor condition.

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Couldn't do all that without touching the luggage rack. Found some surprises when I removed it.

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Stripped, sanded, and painted

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Then I talked the neighbor into helping me swap them out. Still need to make some adjustments on the hinges, and am waiting for my replacement hold down hardware, as I removed the ghetto exterior jeep hood hold downs that ran down each side of the old top that the PO used. Also still need to paint the luggage rack bars and reinstall.

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Pretty pleased with the results. I'd sure love to get one of those new Werksberg replacement tops some day, but this will at least keep the water out.

Next up, building my 2176 to help push this thing down the road a little better...
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67 Beetle (1500sp, 1776dp, 1915NA, 1915T fuel injected, 2276NA, 2276T fuel injected, 2084NA, 2056 T4, back to the trusty 1600dp)

74 Transporter (2.0 T4, SOHC EJ25) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

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beatles4
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2015 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is my new favorite thread. Your bus is a dead ringer for my 69 Camper I picked up about 3 months ago. Same color, same pop top scenario, same issue with the steering box. Weird.

Let me know how your steering box situation goes. I am just now getting to work on the pop top and camper sink stuff. Then I am tackling the interior floors and painting them as you did.
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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2015 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

beatles4 wrote:
This is my new favorite thread. Your bus is a dead ringer for my 69 Camper I picked up about 3 months ago. Same color, same pop top scenario, same issue with the steering box. Weird.

Let me know how your steering box situation goes. I am just now getting to work on the pop top and camper sink stuff. Then I am tackling the interior floors and painting them as you did.


Ha.. what a coincidence!

I'll be updating here when I get around to the steering box. I know where the issue is, but its been manageable driving, so its just "on the list" for down the road. As of right now, Ive pretty well convinced myself to get a rebuilt early box, as the new TRW boxes appear to have a hit or miss reputation. I'd hate to go through all the trouble of swapping to a late box and still end up with a dud.
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Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2006

67 Beetle (1500sp, 1776dp, 1915NA, 1915T fuel injected, 2276NA, 2276T fuel injected, 2084NA, 2056 T4, back to the trusty 1600dp)

74 Transporter (2.0 T4, SOHC EJ25) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

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beatles4
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2015 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vee Dub Nut wrote:
beatles4 wrote:
This is my new favorite thread. Your bus is a dead ringer for my 69 Camper I picked up about 3 months ago. Same color, same pop top scenario, same issue with the steering box. Weird.

Let me know how your steering box situation goes. I am just now getting to work on the pop top and camper sink stuff. Then I am tackling the interior floors and painting them as you did.


Ha.. what a coincidence!

I'll be updating here when I get around to the steering box. I know where the issue is, but its been manageable driving, so its just "on the list" for down the road. As of right now, Ive pretty well convinced myself to get a rebuilt early box, as the new TRW boxes appear to have a hit or miss reputation. I'd hate to go through all the trouble of swapping to a late box and still end up with a dud.


That is the exact same predicament I have been battling. So now my question is do I go with Bus Boys or Wolfgang Int. Wolfgang is probably my choice except that I need to send my box in first as they don't have any pre rebuilt boxes in stock. I don't exactly want to be without the ability to move my bus for the next month or so.
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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 5:40 am    Post subject: Pop Top Rubber Latches (straps) Reply with quote

Finished up the latches on the top this weekend and wanted to point out a couple of issues I found with the replacement rear middle latch that is sold by JK (I bought it through CIP prt# VWC-231-068-013-A). The yellow rubber latch in the kit is too long compared to the original, and the shape of the metal part that clips to the roof is slightly different. The end result is a latch thats functional length is quite a bit longer and remains completely loose when clipped in.

Here is the repop latch next to the original. Clearly you can see the length difference.

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What I ended up doing is using all of the parts of the repop latch except for the rubber part itself, and picked up a shorter rubber latch from my local auto parts store. They have them under the Dorman "HELP" line parts. Its part number is Dorman 42410. Using the new shorter latch, I was able to drill a hole through the bulb for the catch to mount and match the overall length of the original.

For the metal clip part, some careful squeezing in the vice got the new vs original parts to layout the same. I didn't get a picture here, but basically the curled part of the latch on the new repop kit is a lot deeper/lower down from the mounting point effectively causing the functional length of the latch to be too long. A quick squeeze in the vice allowed that section to roll up and match the stock part.

Here is my modified setup mounted.

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The two side latches that CIP VWC-231-068-013-A sells were fine, although I still used a mix of the replacement parts and my original parts. I ended up reusing the original body mounted catches as they are quite a bit better built, but I used all of the rest of the new parts (rubber latch, pins, and latch mount). (Note, ignore the excess silicon I haven't cleaned off the frame/top joint yet).

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Happy to report with the new repaired top frame allowing both front hinges to be securely mounted, new rear latches and the top adjusted, I now have zero issues with the top lifting/buffeting at speed. Before all the repairs it lifted quite a bit past 55mph or so. Now its solid as can be.
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67 Beetle (1500sp, 1776dp, 1915NA, 1915T fuel injected, 2276NA, 2276T fuel injected, 2084NA, 2056 T4, back to the trusty 1600dp)

74 Transporter (2.0 T4, SOHC EJ25) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut
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beatles4
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome. I had the exact same issue. I'm looking into ordering that Dorman part.
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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing too big going on... Hope to get some cruising done this weekend.

Did manage to get my shore power all hooked back up. When wiring it up, I swapped the interior outlet for one with a little more modern touch, on board USB charging ports Laughing

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Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2006

67 Beetle (1500sp, 1776dp, 1915NA, 1915T fuel injected, 2276NA, 2276T fuel injected, 2084NA, 2056 T4, back to the trusty 1600dp)

74 Transporter (2.0 T4, SOHC EJ25) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut
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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been a little quite for the Bus lately.

Last big outing was the local club's Octoberfest show about 1.5hrs away. I did a little swap meeting with my boy. Made out pretty decent unloading a bunch of stuff I've had sitting around for some time. He had a blast telling everyone about the Bus and all the parts we loaded in it LOL

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Then things have gotten busy. Got all of the garage cleaned up ready for an engine swap, then promptly went on vacation. Now that I'm back, I've pulled the 1600 from the Westy and am moving it over into my '67 Bug that hasn't had an engine for the past three years. Swapping on a set of Weber 40 IDFs and a dual quiet pack system as it moves over, along with a general cleaning and cooling tin painting.

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I'm not real stoked about the Bus being out of commission, but I'm happy to have the Bug movable again. Its been such a long time since I've driven it. Fortunately I've got a plan for repowering the Westy that should hopefully go pretty smoothly from here out. All I'm waiting on is a set of heads to show up. Everything else is in hand. The heads are being shipped out this week, so I should have them next week. I did think long an hard about doing a subi swap, but I already had basically everything I needed to build a nice aircooled T1, so I held off on that idea for now. Maybe someday. I've had a lot of fun building turbo EFI aircooled engines in the past using Megasquirt, so a subi swap and playing with fuel injection has a lot of pull to me, just doesn't make sense right now.

Specs for the new motor is as follows:

2084cc
78.4 CB forged crank
AA 92mm thickwall P/C
Scat forged Ibeam rods
CB aluminum super case
Tims STG I heads (ported 40x35.5, AA casting)
Engle FK7 (basically a 1.4 rocker version of the 110, but more lift)
CB lightweight lifters
Dual HPMX 40 carbs (deluxe hexbar offset manifold kit, w/ the new v3.0 carbs)
CB Magnaspark distributor (centrifugal advance, fully tunable)
Bugpack street max merged header (clears the mustache bar)
CB/magnaflow turbo muffler

Should be a nice strong engine. My 1600 ran well, but this engine should be much better pulling the weight of the camper around. Going to do some more cleaning and possibly painting in the engine bay while things are out too. I cleaned it pretty well earlier, but I should be able to get at more stuff with the engine out of the way.

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I'll keep progress posted here as I build up the new engine. Can't wait to get it back up and running. Also curious to work with the EMPI weber carb clones. Their reputation has gotten a lot better over the years, with several folks mentioning that they are better than the current spanish webers. I dunno. The linkage kit (even the deluxe kit) is not as nice as CB's, but it looks like it should be pretty decent (especially over the base/cheaper kits). The carbs themselves look great. I'll be going through them and cleaning and checking the setup on everything up before installing.
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Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2006

67 Beetle (1500sp, 1776dp, 1915NA, 1915T fuel injected, 2276NA, 2276T fuel injected, 2084NA, 2056 T4, back to the trusty 1600dp)

74 Transporter (2.0 T4, SOHC EJ25) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut
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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 11:04 am    Post subject: Re: Vee Dub Nut's 68 Westy Reply with quote

Been daily driving my '67 with the old 1600 from the Bus. Been running pretty well for the most part. Slowly getting everything dialed back in from the car being off the road for 3+ years.

Started on the "big" motor build for the Westy. Hoping to have the full longblock built by the end of the weekend. I'll still have some time after that to finish getting all my cooling tins in order, mounting the auxiliary oil cooler, etc, etc.. but should be up and rolling again before Christmas hopefully.

A few pics so far...

All the pieces getting gathered up

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I'm very satisfied with the new Tims heads so far. They are built on the AA chinese 043 clone casting, and its one of the cleanest castings I've seen so far. They have developed a good reputation since they've been released, and I'm looking forward to using them. The heads are 40x35.5mm, and are hand ported by Steve/Greg Tims, and CC'ed to my specs.

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As always, I mock build the engine a few times along the way checking and double checking the details. A few pics of checking the bottom end. Didn't get any of the top end mockup and valve train setup/geometry check.

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You can kind of see here.. I like to mark the bearings with a sharpie along the parting line of the case when I'm checking the bearing fit in the case early on. It makes it nice and easy when you go to set the crank in to ensure that the bearings are all seated with the pin so nothing gets pinched on accident.

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Once I'm satisfied with everything, I pull it all apart, final clean everything and go back at it again. Last night I got started on final assembly by building up the crank. Tonight I should hopefully be able to get the shortblock together.

"cooking" the timing gear Laughing

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All the parts getting laid out. For assembly I'm using a 50/50 mix of CRC assembly lube and 10W30 Brad Penn oil I'll be running in the engine.

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And the crank all built and ready.

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More to follow...
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Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2006

67 Beetle (1500sp, 1776dp, 1915NA, 1915T fuel injected, 2276NA, 2276T fuel injected, 2084NA, 2056 T4, back to the trusty 1600dp)

74 Transporter (2.0 T4, SOHC EJ25) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut
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Bala
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 11:51 am    Post subject: Re: Vee Dub Nut's 68 Westy Reply with quote

Impressive, that's a clean looking engine build!
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richparker
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vee Dub Nut wrote:
Also curious to work with the EMPI weber carb clones. Their reputation has gotten a lot better over the years, with several folks mentioning that they are better than the current spanish webers. I dunno. The linkage kit (even the deluxe kit) is not as nice as CB's, but it looks like it should be pretty decent (especially over the base/cheaper kits). The carbs themselves look great. I'll be going through them and cleaning and checking the setup on everything up before installing.


I have a good buddy with a '59 DD panel camper conversion that has been runing a 2109 with those carbs for several years. They work but he has had all sorts for issues with the pump jets, getting proper idle, and leak down. For several years he's sworn they were just as good as the Webers even though he was always messing with them. After all that time today he installed new Spanish IDF40s w/CB linkage, He was sick of F-ing with the EMPIs. Hopefully you won't have those issues.

What's your plan for the full flow set up and what size oil pump are you gonna use? Are you planning on a sump? How are you planning on venting the case? Are you using a V belt or a serpentine set up? Flaps or no flaps? What bearings are you using? I'm also curious about why 92s and not 94s? I'm sure I have a bunch more questions for you. Smile

So far the build looks great! I'm stoked you decided to stay AC and go stroker instead of a Subie transplant. You will love the power the stroker gives you.

Rich P.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 9:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Vee Dub Nut's 68 Westy Reply with quote

Bala wrote:
Impressive, that's a clean looking engine build!


Thanks, I try...
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Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2006

67 Beetle (1500sp, 1776dp, 1915NA, 1915T fuel injected, 2276NA, 2276T fuel injected, 2084NA, 2056 T4, back to the trusty 1600dp)

74 Transporter (2.0 T4, SOHC EJ25) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut
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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

richparker wrote:

I have a good buddy with a '59 DD panel camper conversion that has been runing a 2109 with those carbs for several years. They work but he has had all sorts for issues with the pump jets, getting proper idle, and leak down. For several years he's sworn they were just as good as the Webers even though he was always messing with them. After all that time today he installed new Spanish IDF40s w/CB linkage, He was sick of F-ing with the EMPIs. Hopefully you won't have those issues.


I've heard some of the early versions of the EMPI carbs were problematic. These are the latest v3 carbs, and from my research, they (empi) have made the carbs better and better through the years. I've seen a few folks mention issues with the newer spanish webers too, saying they preferred the empi carbs, but CB's linkage.

Honestly, if they do prove to be a huge pain, I'll use them as throttle bodies and throw on my megasquirt setup LOL

richparker wrote:
What's your plan for the full flow set up and what size oil pump are you gonna use? Are you planning on a sump?


I'm using a typical pump outlet cover, and returning to the "normal" location. I haven't put the mustache bar up to the case yet, so I don't know how the overall fit will be. I'm assuming I'll have to do some massaging of the parts.

richparker wrote:
How are you planning on venting the case?


From the oil filler tower, and more than likely the valve covers too. I'm planning on still retaining a mechanical fuel pump, so I can't use that location as I've done on some of my past motors.

richparker wrote:
Are you using a V belt or a serpentine set up?


V-belt with a Bosch alternator.

richparker wrote:
Flaps or no flaps?


German FI shroud with flaps for directional purposes only. No t-stat at this time.

richparker wrote:
What bearings are you using?


A mix of silverline and kolbeschmidt mains. Clevite rod bearings (NLA). I'm actually using the aluminum backed center main, because I liked the fit better, and the full internal grove on the bearing.

richparker wrote:
I'm also curious about why 92s and not 94s?


The displacement was not a huge issue, so I opted for the thickwall cylinders for perhaps a little better durability (debatable likely).

richparker wrote:
I'm sure I have a bunch more questions for you. Smile


Fire away any time..

richparker wrote:
So far the build looks great! I'm stoked you decided to stay AC and go stroker instead of a Subie transplant. You will love the power the stroker gives you.


I'm sure the engine will be great, and I'm definitely looking froward to the additional power. The 1600 got down the road ok, but any sort of hill was not much fun. I do have a lot of interest in the Subi route some day (background with MS/fuel injection/etc), but I had too many AC parts on the shelf and it wasn't real cost effective to sell and try and change directions.
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67 Beetle (1500sp, 1776dp, 1915NA, 1915T fuel injected, 2276NA, 2276T fuel injected, 2084NA, 2056 T4, back to the trusty 1600dp)

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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 9:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Vee Dub Nut's 68 Westy Reply with quote

Made more progress on the engine build.

Disclaimer: this is by NO means meant to be a HOW-TO on engine building. I'm just showing pictures of a few of the high points along the way. There is a BUNCH of behind the scenes stuff I'm doing that I'm not posting about, so please don't think I'm showing all that has to be done. A lot of time goes into the process.

Just a few pics from tonight. Having trouble getting them all uploaded, so this will skip a bit.

I like to set up the distributor drive and distributor in the case first. This lets you get those shims in without the chance of them falling somewhere they shouldn't. (also note the blue lines in the main bearing bores. In almost ALL replacement cases, you need to check the oil hole alignment between the bearings and the case. I know a lot of folks modify the cheaper part, but I adjust the holes in the case, as they are typically what is off)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After that the crank and lifters can go in on that side. This is where the sharpie lines on the bearing shells really help. This makes sure you get all three bearings seated/oriented correctly on the dowels so nothing gets pinched when you assemble the case halves.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The rest of the other pics didn't upload (I'll try again later), but next the cam is dropped in (make sure to index it with the timing marks on the crank!). Once that is in place, I like to roll the engine over and feel it to ensure its smooth (note, cam shaft end play was checked and adjusted during previous mockup)

After that you put the lifters, cam bearings, and center main in on the other case half. Then the messy part, applying the sealant to the case halves.

Put the two together and you have a short block! I torque up the main bearings nuts at 15, 20, then finally 25 ftlbs, stopping and checking rotation at each torque. So long as everything is still moving smoothly, I keep going. 15 ftlbs on the parting line hardware, and then a recheck of the mains again for good measure.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Last thing I got to was setting up the endplay. This can be a little tedious at times, but I got it nailed in at 0.005"

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


All for now.
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Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2006

67 Beetle (1500sp, 1776dp, 1915NA, 1915T fuel injected, 2276NA, 2276T fuel injected, 2084NA, 2056 T4, back to the trusty 1600dp)

74 Transporter (2.0 T4, SOHC EJ25) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut
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richparker
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 10:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Vee Dub Nut's 68 Westy Reply with quote

Awesome man, it looks great!
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 10:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Vee Dub Nut's 68 Westy Reply with quote

Your cleanliness will be appreciated.

Your endplay, however, sounds obtuse. Five thou is the wear limit. .0027" is allowed (and preferred,) and since the end play can only wear larger, not smaller, why not try to nail .003"? I don't trust the HF micrometer to shoot for .0027"! Razz

I will steal your sharpie trick. It would have saved me a days time and a new set of bearings… Laughing

Robbie
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