69 bay bus "Weld Busler"

Yarkle · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 4:15 pm Post subject:

Didnt get as much done this weekend as id hoped, Leb is still plugging away at the paint removal.

got the new moustache bar in, much straighter than the one we took off:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Center pin ring folded over: Took SGKents advice, got the dremel with this bit:

did a little of this:

and a little of this:

BTW: SGKent-thanks for reinforcing the safety goggles..I always wear them, but there was metal filing EVERYWHERE! got a few shards in my finger, but better there than in my eyeball.

and got this:

so now this fits:

i also put a 27mm socket on the tight ball joint, and it wrenches around just fine, so this weeks agenda includes putting the center pin back together, and reassembling the front end.

Well, im going to fight with brake lines before I put the spindles back on..so anyone in the northeast, if you try to buy brake lines, you may find they are sold out, cuz i am horrible at bending them and will most likely go through several on each side.
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Yarkle · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 6:28 pm Post subject:

Well, as usual, plan vs actual struck again, so we fiddled with this and that.

"Deluxe trim removal" We found the best thing was to wiggle it , up or down, and tap it with a jewelers rubber mallet. Once you get it "started", we tapped from the top while pulling from the bottom, and it came right off.

we then started fiddling with the engine, removing tin and whatnot to clean it and start with the leaky seals.,, missing tin and pushrod tubes.

this guy showed up to help..we call him "trucka"

I had originally planned on doing the engine work on the ground, then grew a brain and got a pep boys engine stand and the vwalley yoke adaptor.

I dont know about the grinding of spot welds referred to in Glenn Rings thread, maybe the pep boys one just fits perfect? You do have to drill it tho.

Caleb and myself each grabbed a j tube and hefted it up onto the stand, then

I marked it with a silver sharpie:

then drilled it out with a 1/2 inch bit. dotn be a dork liek me and try to drill all the way through both sides, didnt line up quite right..shoudl have lsitened to Trucka

went through 2 dewalt bits, but now its on there..

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Yarkle · Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 9:14 am Post subject:

DOWH!! I said refer to this thread in the flywheel thread, and hadnt posted these yet..

then we started cleaning...yuck:

looks like someone upgraded the collar and pressure plate and fork to the 71 style at some point

we tried the WD 40 degreaser..useless, sprayed like four layers on it:

scrubbed, scraped, wiped..and it barley touched it..we then switched to the GUNK gel, and it was like using a firehose..it just dissolved that stuff right off.

then caleb wiped it down:

Caleb approves:

as does Trucka

then we celebrated

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Brian · Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 10:17 am Post subject:

Degreaser is one hell of a thing man. Looks like progress though.
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Yarkle · Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 10:44 am Post subject:

that gunk gel is crazy good. The WD-40 stuff and the mostenblockers didnt do anything. the gunk pro just disintegrated it..Caleb is doing the outside of the tranny right now, and that was filthy nasty, but stuff was already dripping off of it.

Yep, progress! a little bit on several fronts, but its still progress!

EDIT:

found this, wasnt thrilled--Trucka was so shocked it knocked his goggles off!

looking for advice in this thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7812383#7812383
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Tcash · Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 3:05 pm Post subject:

That is a later Transaxle. Run the numbers off it.
Trans ID

Looking Good
Tcash

Yarkle · Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 3:08 pm Post subject:

so that ding out of the crank and the bent washer arent a big deal? Flywheel is OK?

Caleb is still degreasing the outside..the inside came off alot easier than the inside, so we cant really read the numbers yet..well, cuz he hasnt cleaned that part of the trans yet. ill go scrape it now

EDIT: 002301103F with a big 3 underneath
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Tcash · Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 5:12 pm Post subject:

It is easier if you keep everything in one post

airschooled · Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 6:44 pm Post subject:

That bent shim was a .005" end play "increasing" shim for builds that don't stack up correctly. It is included in engine rebuild gasket sets, so some people think you have to use them. You only use them if you can not get large enough end-play with available shims. This doesn't mean shims you have, it means you can use it if your end play is REALLY so tight that the three smallest shims aren't small enough. Always three shims, NEVER less. It bent when the dowel pin passed through it.

I have your PM, going to respond from the computer later…
Robbie
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Yarkle · Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 8:04 pm Post subject:

Hmmm..well, there arent really alot of "VW shops" around here..Really, there arent any I'm aware of thatd I'd call competent..this is the land of the rust.

Theres one VW guy who seems to take on projects, but doesnt finish them, and another one who doesnt know the difference between bus and type 3 heater boxes, so im a little leery of going there.

I was hoping to get the bus on the road just so Caleb can drive it to school a bit before the snows fly, so would it be Ok to just put it back as it was, with a new spacer and seal, and see how it goes for now? (20 mile round trip, so we arent talking huge mileage here.)

if it leaks, i can pull it again If i have to and fix it for good? probably with a new crank, id imagine.

Im asking for suggestions here, so fire away. I think i can get the flywheel checked out without a problem, just not sure if anyone really would be up to the crank issue.

It looks like someone already "fixed" it, which could be part of the problem..odd they didnt clean everything up..

The flywheel did have an O-ring in it.

The clutch didnt appear oily, and the flywheel wasnt too bad it was mainly the inside of the bell housing (some of which could have been tranny fluid) and the inside of the case around the seal.

Most of it looked like old buildup.

I keep falling into the Sarlacc pit of while its apart, i should fix that, but it would be nice if he could drive it some while hes still in school.

But, if im going to be courting disaster by doing that, please tell me , cuz theres no guarantee even if i just slapped together the engine tommorow, itd be ready before it snows.

Tcash: IF I can patch it together for now, what is the right part for the soft iron gasket? that isnt whats on there now?
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skills@eurocarsplus · Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 8:37 pm Post subject:

you need to discard that shim and reset your end play. problem is, that giant chunk out of your crank will never allow that o-ring in the flywheel to seal. either way, I think you will have a bit of a leak

the only thing you can do is get that black piece of shit seal out of there and hope you get a decent quality orange/red seal.

depending on the size of your gland nut washer, you can put juuuusssst a little bit of RTV on the dowel pin heads before you send it home for good. this will hopefully stave off any leaks past the o-ring

also get a proper flywheel seal installer. trying to pound on in is like pissing up a rope. you need the installer to help keep the seal with the centerline of the crank. 99% of the time the crank centerline is off, so putting a seal in "straight" won't help. the seal needs to follow the centerline of the crank and flywheel
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airschooled · Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 8:46 pm Post subject:

Yarkle · Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 9:16 am Post subject:

thanks Fellas!

K, i think what im going to do is have Caleb take the flywheel to the machine shop after school one day and see what they think, and ill order the:

o-ring seal
shims
soft gasket (what part # is this?)
red seal (actually i think i already bought one and i already planned on the trans input seal)
big washer for gland nut per skills suggestion

Ill fiddle with it today or tommorow or the next day and see if i cant figure out what shims i need, as im sure ill need some random combination as opposed to what comes in a regular set.

any other ideas? suggestions?

if it leaks, well, winter project. No guarantee itll be ready before snows and salty roads even if i dont tackle this particular sarlacc pit , we'll see.

Link

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Yarkle · Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 11:02 am Post subject:

I did this as another reply instead of an edit to alert watchers. cuz i need advice!

K, with no black seal, no oil, no shims, no soft gasket, end play is .041.

I think Tcash's suggestion of the metal gasket is a good idea, as theres been some sort of shenanigans going on in there, and it might be necessary to clear the dowels.

It looks like the soft gasket is .005, plus .003 so that plus a .0095 + .0095
+ .0141 puts me at .0411

does that seem right? or do i want to use a .0126 for the last one to give me .039 total,

damn, this is hurting my head.

if i get the flywheel resurfaced, cleaned up, will that effect endplay?
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Tcash · Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 2:25 pm Post subject: Flywheel installation

I'll have Caleb take the flywheel to the machine shop after school one day and see what they think
Have him take the Dowel Pin that came out and have it mic'd. Get a new one the same size. Grind it down to the same length as the old one and install the ground end into the crank hole.

If you can loose the shim. But if you must use it. Use one of these. Use one to check end play and a new one for final assembly.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-5092

First put the flywheel on the crank without the shim. With the flywheel installed the dowel pins must be recessed in the flywheel holes. If they are even with the flywheel or protruding, you need the shim. Or the gland nut will hit them and not be able to secure the flywheel to the crank.
Another option is to stuff a rag around the crank and grind down the dowel pins slightly.
The flywheel must not rock when pushed against the crank by hand. If it rocks it needs machining or the crank needs machining.

1. Have the machine shop mic the dowel pin that came out. Get a new one grind to size.
Clean the pin hole so it is shinny. Install the new pin with red loctite.

2. Have the machine shop check the flywheel mounting surface. You may need a new flywheel.

I would not machine the clutch surface unless it was absolutely necessary.
I. not many machine shops know how to do it correctly.
II. if it is german I would make it last as long as I can.

Tcash · Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 2:30 pm Post subject:

Yarkle · Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 3:05 pm Post subject:

TCash, you put the "swag" in volkswagen!

just to confirm, cuz im a little fuzzy:

1. the dowel flywheel gasket is what you are calling the soft iron gasket?

2. at the machine shop, im not sure what Caleb should tell them--I think its

should he tell them the flywheel mounting surface must be 21mm?

3. he should just bring in the dowel and say "make me this?"

(I have to send him cuz My work schedule doesnt jive with the few machine shop around here..im a mailman so now i gotta work late-catalog season)

Ill get the stuff i dont have once I get paid, so itll be a few weeks probably before everything shows up, especially if i need a new flywheel... but ive got plenty to do in the meantime.

Caleb is still battling the transmissiion grease, and ive been removing the engine accoutrements.

Thanks for all the help and advice, sambanistas!

What Caleb started with: (and thats with a can of degreaser already)

what he ended with just now:

his getup..wearign one or two size too small shirts his mom wont let him discard, and his czech gas mask

What i started with:

what i ended with (Trucka isnt sure I know how to put this back together--he might be right--but my Samba friends do!)

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Tilda the Mustard Tigress 1973 Squareback (o'''^'''o)

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Tcash · Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 6:32 pm Post subject:

lil-jinx · Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 5:45 am Post subject:

Could he not use a hard bolt for a dowel,just cut off the head and the treads and cut to to length.
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airschooled · Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 9:34 am Post subject:


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