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40 HP engine build with a 1385 ccm big bore kit
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spencerfvee
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi when I built my big bore 40hp motor. with A&A pistons .i know you said you clearance the case for the 83mm pistons but maybe you should check again . I found that the bottom of the piston skirts hit the inside of my case . it took me 2 trys to get it right .also you might want to check your rocker arms. if your using stock rockers on a stock shaft . I have run into to this at the shop. the rockers get worn on the sides of the rocker and out of shape and will make a clicking sound . I allways reface the sides of the rockers .also check your rocker shalfs to make sure there not worn out . the same with the rockers . stock rockers are the most over looked when rebuilding a motor after all stock rockers are over 45 years old just my two cents spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Gearfinger wrote:
This is a time when looking at the crank pulley when the knock showed would have helped. Might have noticed where in the stroke the noise showed.

Do you recall if the noise came at the "rockover" phase of top dead center or bottom dead center on #3? I'm thinking that rod isn't true, creating a side or twisting thrust upon the changing directional forces the crank rotation creates.

Or, the wrist pin bushing is worn or loose in the rod.

Or, ...


You did check to see if the noise went away with the clutch pedal pushed down, yes?


Thanks for your response! I checked the noises were coming from 3 different places. I marked them on the crank pulley and took off the cylinder head and checked the position of the pistons. The noises came from the 3 rd cylinder and also from the 4th cylinder, but not from the other side. I heard it on the phase of the top dead center and also on the bottom dead center. Finally, yesterday I split the case again.
Maybe, you are right about the wrist pin bushing. Seems they are very nice, because they are from a low mile industrial engine, but not tight enough for an 1385 ccm engine. They were ok for the original 1200 ccm pistons/cylinders, but with this set the engine seems very very strong. Tomorrow I will measure all bushings again and maybe I will have to use my NOS rods....
The engine did not run in my car, only on the engine standing. But, waiting for it very much! Smile


Last edited by spencerfvee on Tue Aug 18, 2015 8:33 am; edited 1 time in total
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akomjathy
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I had to make the same clearence in my engine case. I rechecked it and the pistons doesn't hit the engine case!

spencerfvee wrote:
hi when I built my big bore 40hp motor. I found that the bottom of the piston skirts hit the inside of my case .a little work with a die grinder fixed it .spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Gearfinger wrote:
This is a time when looking at the crank pulley when the knock showed would have helped. Might have noticed where in the stroke the noise showed.

Do you recall if the noise came at the "rockover" phase of top dead center or bottom dead center on #3? I'm thinking that rod isn't true, creating a side or twisting thrust upon the changing directional forces the crank rotation creates.

Or, the wrist pin bushing is worn or loose in the rod.

Or, ...


You did check to see if the noise went away with the clutch pedal pushed down, yes?


Thanks for your response! I checked the noises were coming from 3 different places. I marked them on the crank pulley and took off the cylinder head and checked the position of the pistons. The noises came from the 3 rd cylinder and also from the 4th cylinder, but not from the other side. I heard it on the phase of the top dead center and also on the bottom dead center. Finally, yesterday I split the case again.
Maybe, you are right about the wrist pin bushing. Seems they are very nice, because they are from a low mile industrial engine, but not tight enough for an 1385 ccm engine. They were ok for the original 1200 ccm pistons/cylinders, but with this set the engine seems very very strong. Tomorrow I will measure all bushings again and maybe I will have to use my NOS rods....
The engine did not run in my car, only on the engine standing. But, waiting for it very much! Smile
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spencerfvee
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi I added to my post about rockers please read spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Yes, I had to make the same clearence in my engine case. I rechecked it and the pistons doesn't hit the engine case!

spencerfvee wrote:
hi when I built my big bore 40hp motor. I found that the bottom of the piston skirts hit the inside of my case .a little work with a die grinder fixed it .spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Gearfinger wrote:
This is a time when looking at the crank pulley when the knock showed would have helped. Might have noticed where in the stroke the noise showed.

Do you recall if the noise came at the "rockover" phase of top dead center or bottom dead center on #3? I'm thinking that rod isn't true, creating a side or twisting thrust upon the changing directional forces the crank rotation creates.

Or, the wrist pin bushing is worn or loose in the rod.

Or, ...


You did check to see if the noise went away with the clutch pedal pushed down, yes?


Thanks for your response! I checked the noises were coming from 3 different places. I marked them on the crank pulley and took off the cylinder head and checked the position of the pistons. The noises came from the 3 rd cylinder and also from the 4th cylinder, but not from the other side. I heard it on the phase of the top dead center and also on the bottom dead center. Finally, yesterday I split the case again.
Maybe, you are right about the wrist pin bushing. Seems they are very nice, because they are from a low mile industrial engine, but not tight enough for an 1385 ccm engine. They were ok for the original 1200 ccm pistons/cylinders, but with this set the engine seems very very strong. Tomorrow I will measure all bushings again and maybe I will have to use my NOS rods....
The engine did not run in my car, only on the engine standing. But, waiting for it very much! Smile
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Gearfinger
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have any friends in the auto repair trade, perhaps you can find an old suspension shock strut with a (straight) 20mm shaft. With rod ends aligned, if the shaft won't go through both wrist pin bushings, something is out of line.

If you were working on a bit newer air cooled stuff, the Super Beetle strut shaft works perfectly...
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akomjathy
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice! I already checked the wrist pin bushings and they are in fine condition! The size of the wrist pins are 20 mm all around. They can go through in the wrist pin bushing.

Gearfinger wrote:
If you have any friends in the auto repair trade, perhaps you can find an old suspension shock strut with a (straight) 20mm shaft. With rod ends aligned, if the shaft won't go through both wrist pin bushings, something is out of line.

If you were working on a bit newer air cooled stuff, the Super Beetle strut shaft works perfectly...
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Today, I put my engine case together. Evertyhing seems brand new. . I put back the flywheel and also the distributor drive and the oil pump. I put back the 3rd and 4th cylinders and also the cylinder head for this side. I turned around the engine and heard the same knocking noise. This time I could check everything from the 1st and 2nd cylinder side. I heard the noise on the phase of the top dead center for both cylinders. As I realized, this noise is coming from the crank shaft area. It seems the rod hits one side of the crankshaft for both cylinders.... I have never had a problem like this before. The gap between the rods and the side of the crankshaft is 0,3 mm. I think it is perfect! But, something is wrong with this set....I did not have this problem with this engine with the stock 1200 ccm piston/cylinder set.
What can I do??
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spencerfvee wrote:
hi I added to my post about rockers please read spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Yes, I had to make the same clearence in my engine case. I rechecked it and the pistons doesn't hit the engine case!

spencerfvee wrote:
hi when I built my big bore 40hp motor. I found that the bottom of the piston skirts hit the inside of my case .a little work with a die grinder fixed it .spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Gearfinger wrote:
This is a time when looking at the crank pulley when the knock showed would have helped. Might have noticed where in the stroke the noise showed.

Do you recall if the noise came at the "rockover" phase of top dead center or bottom dead center on #3? I'm thinking that rod isn't true, creating a side or twisting thrust upon the changing directional forces the crank rotation creates.

Or, the wrist pin bushing is worn or loose in the rod.

Or, ...


You did check to see if the noise went away with the clutch pedal pushed down, yes?


Thanks for your response! I checked the noises were coming from 3 different places. I marked them on the crank pulley and took off the cylinder head and checked the position of the pistons. The noises came from the 3 rd cylinder and also from the 4th cylinder, but not from the other side. I heard it on the phase of the top dead center and also on the bottom dead center. Finally, yesterday I split the case again.
Maybe, you are right about the wrist pin bushing. Seems they are very nice, because they are from a low mile industrial engine, but not tight enough for an 1385 ccm engine. They were ok for the original 1200 ccm pistons/cylinders, but with this set the engine seems very very strong. Tomorrow I will measure all bushings again and maybe I will have to use my NOS rods....
The engine did not run in my car, only on the engine standing. But, waiting for it very much! Smile
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spencerfvee
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would change the rods .or you might have a bent rod .take a piston pin and put the piston pin in to a rod. do this while the rods are on the crank and bring a second rod up and see if the pin goes into the second rod and first rod. if it goes into both rods at the same time then the rods are not bent . if it does not go into the second rod you have a bent rod . I do this all the time when I put rods on a crank its better to check while the crank is out .I have found many bent rods this way .if you don't have a bent rod .then change all the rods with new rods also you might want to check the crank out to see if its bent or out of round . .that's what I would do. i am very sorry that your having a hard time putting this motor together. some motors are a pain in the ass to build . but when you get the motor fixed and running and you will . you will be one happy guy so hang in there I am sure other guys on this forum will have some input too . good luck spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Hi, Today, I put my engine case together. Evertyhing seems brand new. . I put back the flywheel and also the distributor drive and the oil pump. I put back the 3rd and 4th cylinders and also the cylinder head for this side. I turned around the engine and heard the same knocking noise. This time I could check everything from the 1st and 2nd cylinder side. I heard the noise on the phase of the top dead center for both cylinders. As I realized, this noise is coming from the crank shaft area. It seems the rod hits one side of the crankshaft for both cylinders.... I have never had a problem like this before. The gap between the rods and the side of the crankshaft is 0,3 mm. I think it is perfect! But, something is wrong with this set....I did not have this problem with this engine with the stock 1200 ccm piston/cylinder set.
What can I do??
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


spencerfvee wrote:
hi I added to my post about rockers please read spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Yes, I had to make the same clearence in my engine case. I rechecked it and the pistons doesn't hit the engine case!

spencerfvee wrote:
hi when I built my big bore 40hp motor. I found that the bottom of the piston skirts hit the inside of my case .a little work with a die grinder fixed it .spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Gearfinger wrote:
This is a time when looking at the crank pulley when the knock showed would have helped. Might have noticed where in the stroke the noise showed.

Do you recall if the noise came at the "rockover" phase of top dead center or bottom dead center on #3? I'm thinking that rod isn't true, creating a side or twisting thrust upon the changing directional forces the crank rotation creates.

Or, the wrist pin bushing is worn or loose in the rod.

Or, ...


You did check to see if the noise went away with the clutch pedal pushed down, yes?


Thanks for your response! I checked the noises were coming from 3 different places. I marked them on the crank pulley and took off the cylinder head and checked the position of the pistons. The noises came from the 3 rd cylinder and also from the 4th cylinder, but not from the other side. I heard it on the phase of the top dead center and also on the bottom dead center. Finally, yesterday I split the case again.
Maybe, you are right about the wrist pin bushing. Seems they are very nice, because they are from a low mile industrial engine, but not tight enough for an 1385 ccm engine. They were ok for the original 1200 ccm pistons/cylinders, but with this set the engine seems very very strong. Tomorrow I will measure all bushings again and maybe I will have to use my NOS rods....
The engine did not run in my car, only on the engine standing. But, waiting for it very much! Smile
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to clarify here, spencerfvee is suggesting that you remove the crank, leaving the rods attached. Align rod for piston #1, with rod for #3, and attempt to fit the wrist pin on both rods at the same time. Do the same for #2 & 4. If you try to fit a pin on 1 to 2, or 3 to 4, the space will be too great for the pin to bridge the gap. The pin should slide through easily on both rods. If not, you may have one or more bent rods.
Another consideration is that you may have rods of varying length, affecting piston deck clearance, causing contact of piston to head issues.
Yet another issue that I have seen before, is a cyl barrel that is shorter than the others, allowing the piston to strike the head during rotation, or a combination of all of this.
I hope this helps.
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akomjathy
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 1:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Jack! I understand what to do. Will check the rods. My first impression was to change the rods when I split the case. But, this engine worked well with the original 1200 ccm piston/ cylinder set. I only changed the rod bearings and all other bearings. The crank is like brand new and of course in standard size.
The pistons doesn't touch the cylinder heads at all. That's not the problem for sure. I checked the position of the pistons when the knocking is coming. One is almost on the top, while the other one starts to go back from the top.
Anyway, I will try to check the rods today afternoon. But first, I will change the pistons and cylinders, so I will put the 1st and 2nd to the 3rd and 4th place and see if the knocking is still on or not. I am afraid that there are some issues with the pistons. Maybe not, but it's time to check this out!

Jacks wrote:
Just to clarify here, spencerfvee is suggesting that you remove the crank, leaving the rods attached. Align rod for piston #1, with rod for #3, and attempt to fit the wrist pin on both rods at the same time. Do the same for #2 & 4. If you try to fit a pin on 1 to 2, or 3 to 4, the space will be too great for the pin to bridge the gap. The pin should slide through easily on both rods. If not, you may have one or more bent rods.
Another consideration is that you may have rods of varying length, affecting piston deck clearance, causing contact of piston to head issues.
Yet another issue that I have seen before, is a cyl barrel that is shorter than the others, allowing the piston to strike the head during rotation, or a combination of all of this.
I hope this helps.
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Low Bräu
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't assume because the engine has low hours and is essentially like new that all the parts are in perfect condition unless you check and confirm. This goes the same for new parts. Just because they are new doesn't mean they are good or won't require hand fitting to work. This is especially true when the parts you are working with are 40-50 years old or new air cooled vw parts made in China. Sometimes you have to check everything including the parts you believe to be "ok".

If you suspect the 3-4 side try laying the crank in that side of the case and installing the 3-4 piston and cylinders. Install some spacers and head nuts and turn the crank over slowly. You may have to put some pressure on the crank at the mains when you rotate it to keep it in the case. You should be able to see if there is interference happening with the case split.

I don't think this could cause the issue you are experiencing but are the arrows on the piston domes pointing towards the flywheel?

Good luck, you'll figure it out.
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(321) 449-4665

Specializing in repair and maintenance for Porsche, BMW, Mini, Audi, and Volkswagen.

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1960 SO-23 Westfalia
1961 L-380 Turkis Deluxe Beetle
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akomjathy
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, you are right. I think I made that mistake, that I thought everything should be perfect. But, everything is almost perfect, but only something is wrong Smile
I think this knocking is coming from the bearing side of the rod. It hits the crankshaft, when the 3rd piston goes to the top end.
The engine case is in perfect condition, as the crankshaft is. It is in absolutely standard size, I measured it all around. But, I changed the bearing set for the crankshaft for NOS vw ones and put a NOS set of Kolbenschmidt bearing set for the rods.
I already checked the pistons, not only the arrows. I compared them with the original 1200 ccm pistons. Theay are all ok. Today I put the 1st and 2nd piston and cylinder to the 3rd and 4th place. The knocking noise came again....Here is a video:

http://youtu.be/kJkbwYni4Uc

Low Bräu wrote:
Don't assume because the engine has low hours and is essentially like new that all the parts are in perfect condition unless you check and confirm. This goes the same for new parts. Just because they are new doesn't mean they are good or won't require hand fitting to work. This is especially true when the parts you are working with are 40-50 years old or new air cooled vw parts made in China. Sometimes you have to check everything including the parts you believe to be "ok".

If you suspect the 3-4 side try laying the crank in that side of the case and installing the 3-4 piston and cylinders. Install some spacers and head nuts and turn the crank over slowly. You may have to put some pressure on the crank at the mains when you rotate it to keep it in the case. You should be able to see if there is interference happening with the case split.

I don't think this could cause the issue you are experiencing but are the arrows on the piston domes pointing towards the flywheel?

Good luck, you'll figure it out.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi I have had bearings that were packaged wrong . maybe you have a set of the wrong rod bearings .go to the parts store and get some plastic gauge and put the gauge on the bearings tighten the rod down don't move the rod when you do this take the plastic gauge out and see how much clearance you have on the rod bearings .that will tell the story spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Yes, you are right. I think I made that mistake, that I thought everything should be perfect. But, everything is almost perfect, but only something is wrong Smile
I think this knocking is coming from the bearing side of the rod. It hits the crankshaft, when the 3rd piston goes to the top end.
The engine case is in perfect condition, as the crankshaft is. It is in absolutely standard size, I measured it all around. But, I changed the bearing set for the crankshaft for NOS vw ones and put a NOS set of Kolbenschmidt bearing set for the rods.
I already checked the pistons, not only the arrows. I compared them with the original 1200 ccm pistons. Theay are all ok. Today I put the 1st and 2nd piston and cylinder to the 3rd and 4th place. The knocking noise came again....Here is a video:

http://youtu.be/kJkbwYni4Uc

Low Bräu wrote:
Don't assume because the engine has low hours and is essentially like new that all the parts are in perfect condition unless you check and confirm. This goes the same for new parts. Just because they are new doesn't mean they are good or won't require hand fitting to work. This is especially true when the parts you are working with are 40-50 years old or new air cooled vw parts made in China. Sometimes you have to check everything including the parts you believe to be "ok".

If you suspect the 3-4 side try laying the crank in that side of the case and installing the 3-4 piston and cylinders. Install some spacers and head nuts and turn the crank over slowly. You may have to put some pressure on the crank at the mains when you rotate it to keep it in the case. You should be able to see if there is interference happening with the case split.

I don't think this could cause the issue you are experiencing but are the arrows on the piston domes pointing towards the flywheel?

Good luck, you'll figure it out.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just saw you vid that sounds to me and I could be wrong like a valve sticking in the guide . no rod would make that kind of sound but I could be wrong. it sounds like the valve sticks then the cam turn and hits the lifter and like the hammer on a gun it slams closed when you film a vid film the valves and you will see the valve stick also I have had lifters that would stick because the lifter bore was out of round something to think about . I am sure you checked to see if the lifers hit the lifter bore some that is over looked just trying to help spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Yes, you are right. I think I made that mistake, that I thought everything should be perfect. But, everything is almost perfect, but only something is wrong Smile
I think this knocking is coming from the bearing side of the rod. It hits the crankshaft, when the 3rd piston goes to the top end.
The engine case is in perfect condition, as the crankshaft is. It is in absolutely standard size, I measured it all around. But, I changed the bearing set for the crankshaft for NOS vw ones and put a NOS set of Kolbenschmidt bearing set for the rods.
I already checked the pistons, not only the arrows. I compared them with the original 1200 ccm pistons. Theay are all ok. Today I put the 1st and 2nd piston and cylinder to the 3rd and 4th place. The knocking noise came again....Here is a video:

http://youtu.be/kJkbwYni4Uc

Low Bräu wrote:
Don't assume because the engine has low hours and is essentially like new that all the parts are in perfect condition unless you check and confirm. This goes the same for new parts. Just because they are new doesn't mean they are good or won't require hand fitting to work. This is especially true when the parts you are working with are 40-50 years old or new air cooled vw parts made in China. Sometimes you have to check everything including the parts you believe to be "ok".

If you suspect the 3-4 side try laying the crank in that side of the case and installing the 3-4 piston and cylinders. Install some spacers and head nuts and turn the crank over slowly. You may have to put some pressure on the crank at the mains when you rotate it to keep it in the case. You should be able to see if there is interference happening with the case split.

I don't think this could cause the issue you are experiencing but are the arrows on the piston domes pointing towards the flywheel?

Good luck, you'll figure it out.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ehhh?!? Sounds like two barbarians battling with swords. I agree with Spencer, it sounds like something being sprung back like a sticky valve or lifter. Pay attention to what the valve and rocker arm is doing. I think you are onto it.
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Specializing in repair and maintenance for Porsche, BMW, Mini, Audi, and Volkswagen.

1952 Standard Beetle
1960 SO-23 Westfalia
1961 L-380 Turkis Deluxe Beetle
1985 Vanagon Country Homes Camper (work in progress - EG33 swap)
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty simple, really. Assemble the lower end, after testing for rod deviation. Fit ONE piston and cyl, in any location, and install the head with the four nuts to that location, with the other cyl, piston, and head nuts missing, and no pushrod tubes. Rotate the engine. No noise? No problem there? Good so far. Now fit the pushrods to that cyl only, without removing the head, and install the rocker assy to the head. Adj valves as needed. Rotate the engine once again. Still no noise? Ok, no problem with that hole. Repeat this process on the remaining cyls , one at a time until you find the offending one. Be sure to mark the parts that you are using on each position. Do not re-use any tested parts, that have no problem, in a different location.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 1:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No sticking valve or no lifter noise. If there is no rocker assembly, the knocking noise is the same. The clearance between the lifter and the cam lobe is more than .04. I also push back the lifters to the engine case to be sure that the cam doesn't touch them.
The 1st and 2nd piston and cyl. was not on the engine when I made the video. So what else could it be?? I am thinking about the rod only....


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been building vw motors for 45 years and when I think I have seen it all . a motor like yours proves me wrong .and I all ways learn some thing new about a vw motor . cant wait to see what you find out . I never herd a sound like that coming from a rod lol hang in there spencerfvee .
akomjathy wrote:
No sticking valve or no lifter noise. If there is no rocker assembly, the knocking noise is the same. The clearance between the lifter and the cam lobe is more than .04. I also push back the lifters to the engine case to be sure that the cam doesn't touch them.
The 1st and 2nd piston and cyl. was not on the engine when I made the video. So what else could it be?? I am thinking about the rod only....
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
Today I changed all of my connecting rods to another complete set. I changed the rod bearing from the 3rd rod and put them to the 4th. From the 4th I put the bearings to the 3rd rod. I put the crankshaft and the camshaft into the engine case. Put the 3rd and 4th cyl and pistons, also the cyl head and the pushrod tubes. I turned around the engine with a wrench and the knocking noise is still there!! So after that from the 1st and 2nd side I put my big screwdriver to the back side of the rod and stressed it to the wall of the crankshaft while my father turned around the engine. There is no knocking at all!! So, it means something should be wrong with the crankshaft. I am not sure if it is enough to reground it. It is in standard size all around... Here are some pics:
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spencerfvee wrote:
I have been building vw motors for 45 years and when I think I have seen it all . a motor like yours proves me wrong .and I all ways learn some thing new about a vw motor . cant wait to see what you find out . I never herd a sound like that coming from a rod lol hang in there spencerfvee .
akomjathy wrote:
No sticking valve or no lifter noise. If there is no rocker assembly, the knocking noise is the same. The clearance between the lifter and the cam lobe is more than .04. I also push back the lifters to the engine case to be sure that the cam doesn't touch them.
The 1st and 2nd piston and cyl. was not on the engine when I made the video. So what else could it be?? I am thinking about the rod only....
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spencerfvee
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would use a different crank I would not have that one turned . if it was me . my self. don't like using something that did not work the first time .but that's me you do what makes you happy .around here in ohio it cost $150.00 to grind a crank .I am sure you can find a good used 40 hp crank for way less money. than it would cost to grind a crank . spencerfvee
akomjathy wrote:
Hi,
Today I changed all of my connecting rods to another complete set. I changed the rod bearing from the 3rd rod and put them to the 4th. From the 4th I put the bearings to the 3rd rod. I put the crankshaft and the camshaft into the engine case. Put the 3rd and 4th cyl and pistons, also the cyl head and the pushrod tubes. I turned around the engine with a wrench and the knocking noise is still there!! So after that from the 1st and 2nd side I put my big screwdriver to the back side of the rod and stressed it to the wall of the crankshaft while my father turned around the engine. There is no knocking at all!! So, it means something should be wrong with the crankshaft. I am not sure if it is enough to reground it. It is in standard size all around... Here are some pics:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


spencerfvee wrote:
I have been building vw motors for 45 years and when I think I have seen it all . a motor like yours proves me wrong .and I all ways learn some thing new about a vw motor . cant wait to see what you find out . I never herd a sound like that coming from a rod lol hang in there spencerfvee .
akomjathy wrote:
No sticking valve or no lifter noise. If there is no rocker assembly, the knocking noise is the same. The clearance between the lifter and the cam lobe is more than .04. I also push back the lifters to the engine case to be sure that the cam doesn't touch them.
The 1st and 2nd piston and cyl. was not on the engine when I made the video. So what else could it be?? I am thinking about the rod only....
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Gearfinger
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Change the P/C assemblies.
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