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Junkyard Pop Top Shocks
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FNGRUVN
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 8:13 am    Post subject: Junkyard Pop Top Shocks Reply with quote

Even though the vendors that sell these kits have a great product at a great price, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to try to find a solution on my own.

On one of my junkyard expeditions I came across these hatch shocks from a '93 Mercury Villager. The brackets on both ends were bolted on and they looked like they would bolt right onto the van.

Well, they sat in my garage for the last two years, but I finally got a chance to mount them the other day. Just as I thought, they bolted right on and work great. No more "clean & jerk" popping the top. Even the wife can do it now. Why didn't Volkswagen do this from the beginning?

Here's some pictures. Hope this helps other hopeless Do-It-Yourselfers like me.

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61Scout
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very cool. Nice find!!!

-Kevin
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jimf909 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done!
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Abscate wrote:
Do not get killed, do not kill others.


Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.

Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 9:20 am    Post subject: Re: Junkyard Pop Top Shocks Reply with quote

Because VW fitted long coil springs inside the top support arms to do this job. Over time they get weak and/or the cables stretch. You used to be able to buy replacements but NLA now.

Mark

FNGRUVN wrote:
..... Even the wife can do it now. Why didn't Volkswagen do this from the beginning?.....
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Love My Westy
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How much weight can you have on top and lift with them? I have the heavy duty jackbombay shocks and can lift my top with my 70# canoe.
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FNGRUVN
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll have to throw a kayak or two up there and check. All I know is I can now lift the top with one finger where as before I had to give it all I had to pop the top with just a solar panel and two racks up there.
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the lower fitting is secured with a single bolt. Time will tell how that works out but seems to me to be a lot of force to apply laterally to one bolt through fiberglass.
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xoo00oox
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 10:16 am    Post subject: Re: Junkyard Pop Top Shocks Reply with quote

crazyvwvanman wrote:
Because VW fitted long coil springs inside the top support arms to do this job. Over time they get weak and/or the cables stretch. You used to be able to buy replacements but NLA now.

Mark

FNGRUVN wrote:
..... Even the wife can do it now. Why didn't Volkswagen do this from the beginning?.....




I believe VW did offer shocks for the pop tops.
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DAV!D
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice find on the parts. Looks like a pretty straight forward install.
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kalispell365
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NOT mine, but I saved this a couple of years ago from another site using 1999 Subaru Forester hatch struts:

"FWIW, I used the L channel just because I did not want another set of holes in my top. If you don’t have the aftermarket artificial raingutters drilling a hole in the top (ala Jack Bombay) is easier.



The poptop bolt is installed at what ever distance it intersects with the poptop when the shock is fully extended (since one really does not need help for the last few inches of poptop bar push in the opening cycle)



My physics mind thinks that the higher on the poptop the shock is, the more help it will provide at the beginning of the lift (when the top is near being closed) So if you install near the top of the poptop and find the top opens on its own and don’t; like that, place them lower on the poptop



That adjustment/trial is another reason I used the L channel so I could move it to the lower bolts if necessary.



I find that at the position I have it, the poptop stays at what ever position I have it in. (this is with no weight on the roofrack)



On the ’99 forester shock I did bend the bracket on the body end slightly to better align the motion of the shock. Probably no necessary but easy with a set of pliers or crescent wrench used as a lever.



I like to think of this saving me ~$80 off my conversion since I didn’t have to buy the (possibly better but I have no idea) Jack Bombay lift shocks."

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Whoever did this gets kudos...maybe its someone on here?
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FNGRUVN
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahwahnee wrote:
Looks like the lower fitting is secured with a single bolt. Time will tell how that works out but seems to me to be a lot of force to apply laterally to one bolt through fiberglass.


The lower bracket fits snugly up against the pop top hinge, so it can't pivot around the single bolt. There's two bolts going through fiberglass.
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jimf909 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was a bit concerned about the single bolt securing the lower bracket but figured you're an attentive DIYer and will keep an eye on them to make sure they don't loosen and make a mess. I also wondered if larger washers or a backing plate should be used on the outside of the top to distribute the force s bit more. You are in the best place to decide those things.

Regardless, I love my Jack Bombay struts because they created easy storage space in the Yakima box on the roof and my gf is pleased that she can pop the top now.
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- Jim

Abscate wrote:
Do not get killed, do not kill others.


Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.

Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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singler3360
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't the barrel of the strut need to be mounted above the piston side? In the pics posted, both installs look upside down. I read recently that it has something to do with how the piston gets lubricated on each stroke, which leads to longevity if installed right side up.
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FNGRUVN
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think it really matters. The shock is laying horizontally for most of its life. And really, how many times do you pop the top in a year? At that rate even used junkyard shocks will probably outlast the van. Laughing
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