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Replacing/redoing interior panels/door cards?
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Paulbeard
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:39 am    Post subject: Replacing/redoing interior panels/door cards? Reply with quote

I see ABS and plywood mentioned, with plywood being what I was thinking of, some 1/8th inch Baltic Birch, sealed against any moisture would probably work. Cheaper than marine plywood, I think, and could be left uncovered with a nice finish if you roll that way.

Has anyone tried Coroplast as an option? It's light, easily machined/cut, not brittle or prone to rot. It's somewhere between cardboard and the others in terms of rigidity/flexibility, probably durable as either of them. Might be useful for patterns/test fits, if nothing else.

Not in a position to buy any of the readymade solutions so DIY options are where I need to be.
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

we use 1/8" masonite (hardboard)
if you don't like the brown, it can be covered in formica, vinyl, textured paper, fabrics, or paint of your choice

my ASI has woodgrain formica

I have seen beadboard done quite nicely.
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Merian
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

masonite will degrade and fall apart when it gets wet

Sewfine uses masonite (duh)

there is a foam board product that is specifically designed for OEM door cards - a co. called appbiz has them for Pooscheys, and it's worth some effort to contact them
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

our's has been leaked on plenty.. it does stain/discolor and will buckle if gets soaked.
the factory used masonite (hardboard)

but for $8/sheet it's cheap, workable and cheap..
maybe add $50/sheet for a nice formica


personally I DO NOT like the look of that product that gowesty does not make Laughing (black ABS panels fwiw)

here's a nice wood interior job I found in a quick search

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7547835&highlight=#7547835
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Paulbeard
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, you could use all kinds of art boards/foamcore, I suppose. A trip to the art supply store is never a hardship.
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Merian
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yup - I'm not clear on how different the purpose made foam core board is from regular art board - maybe art board has cardboard skins??

you just buy the right thickness, cut it and put some good vinyl over it

the '80s are over and better products can be had nowadays
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VWinVT
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used luan. If my memory serves me it is 3/16 thick. I painted it white with exterior paint, 3 coats. I put white contact paper on the back to handle any condensation. I used press in barbed 'clips' to mount the panels, black. Brightens the interior quite nicely and it is washable.
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Paulbeard
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Merian wrote:
the '80s are over and better products can be had nowadays


Word. This stuff they used has not aged well.
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just don't get yourself entered into the thread of shame
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=432802

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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

not been cared for well.

I have several 1980 models with just fine interior door cards..

the wall paper they put on the back panels.. well those have shrunk and crinkled almighty. there's a thread on here re how to remove the wall paper and then repaint (paint code/name) to an very near oem color match. pending your hardboard isn't compromised (as yours is).
I hear once you go black (ABS) you never go back.. but I don't find the look or feel flattering to the westy trim. (IMNSHO) Smile
Paulbeard wrote:
Merian wrote:
the '80s are over and better products can be had nowadays


Word. This stuff they used has not aged well.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danfromsyr wrote:
not been cared for well.


Six of one…half dozen of t'other. If no one had ever opened them up, I'm sure they're fine. Mine? Eh, not so much. I think the passenger side one is the best I have. The drivers door, the slider and now the hatch are pretty tatty looking. The hatch has had a hard life, from the look of it. Lots of cracks.

The fittings are the problem, perhaps, as they have a stronger grip on the metal and will come out of the panel before they come out of the metal. The stuff is awfully brittle after 28 years which is not unexpected. It seems like to be some hybrid wood/plastic substrate and probably wasn't up to the variety of conditions these old buggies have dealt over the years.
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DenverB
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i've used 1/8 baltic birch in my baywindow with great success. Get the top grade you can get, though -- you don't want putty fillers.

you can stain it any color you want or keep it wood-grain and put a few coats of eurothane on it.

Edit*
Here's a shot I dug up of some stained 1/8 baltic birch in my baywindow. You can see the door panel and some of the headliner (and Spot):

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by DenverB on Sat Jul 25, 2015 11:44 am; edited 2 times in total
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the joker
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just covered my slider with old AMC hiking maps

plan on doing the back deck with rock music mosaic pics from a hard cover

Hubble photo print poster for the headliner in the near future
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some of these need pictures to go with them. Hiking maps shellacked or sealed on a nice wood backing sounds like a great idea. But a nice stain to match the gray appeals as well, like weathered clapboards on cape cod.

I'm leaning toward coroplast for simplicity but I like the idea of 1/8 birch plywood. That was my first thought.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 5:45 pm    Post subject: Any reason not to use Velcro to hold these panels in place? Reply with quote

Just located some foam core and as I was talking to the guy, it occurred to me that Velcro would probably be ok for some, if not all, of these panels. I was thinking about those snaps and if there was a threaded socket that might work for these so you could remove and replace them. But Velcro might be good for ones you need to open and get behind. I'll try it on that back one and see how it works, if it stands off too much or not.

This is what's being replaced:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


If that was held on with Velcro or something reusable, those cracks wouldn't have happened.

Edit: I think Velcro is gonna work, for this panel anyway. As you can see it's pretty beat but I shot some glue into all those cracks and laid it under some weight overnight and that seems to have helped with rigidity and stability. Just test fitted some Velcro and it seems to hold it. I think I'll add a grab loop to save prying the edge up and b0rking it all up again until I decide if/when/how to replace it. Much depends on sourcing replacement vinyl or choosing another look.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danfromsyr wrote:

here's a nice wood interior job I found in a quick search

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7547835&highlight=#7547835


That is nice but now I'm wondering about the two handles on the slider. I ain't got but one.

Doorskins had not occurred to me. That might be a winner.

The slider is depressing. It looks ok but just tired until you get to the back where it was duct taped. Of course. PO loved that stuff.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Merian wrote:
masonite will degrade and fall apart when it gets wet


Not all masonite is created equally.
Get tempered masonite, also know as Skate-a-lite.
Used to cover outdoor skateboard ramps and halfpipes.

I have this product, in use, for well over 10 years outdoors and it holds up.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made a full set of panels from the cheapest hardboard Home Depot had; I just took the old ones off, laid them on top, ran a sharpie outline and cut with a jigsaw. Went to the craft shop, got some material, padding and adhesive and had at it. It was really, really simple - lessons learned was that if you use padding, the texture will show through the top fabric exactly, don't skimp on the glue (headliner now sagging after trying to get 4 cans of work out of 3), and the corners take practice to wrap. Still perfectly fine a year later, but my rig is pretty well sealed.

Velcro is a great idea; however standard stuff will loosen up over time. I started with the 'industrial' Velcro-brand but it didn't last a week in the mildish Northwest summer and it started to hold less and less tight to the surface after just a couple on-off maneuvers. 3M Dual-Lock is worth its weight in gold, holds like nobody's business (be sure to use small pieces) and the adhesive is tenacious yet removable from paint with a little heat. I'm never buying standard Velcro again. I am thinking about using this stuff to mount flex solar panels to my roof - it's that strong..

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fast...1437691556
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I stapled the Velcro that was on the panel because I used the old holes as guides and there are divots in the substrate.

Wondering if my jigsaw-fu is up to this. Worth a try at least. I would prefer some screw in fasteners, something that can be opened and closed. I'll want to source those first.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I also stapled them to the hardboard - but it wouldn't stick to the hatch very well and would fall off after a bit (cleaned with IPA, et al). Perhaps the stuff you have is better suited..
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