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34-PICT-3 Bypass screw does nothing after pertronix install
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RyantheBusMan
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:51 pm    Post subject: 34-PICT-3 Bypass screw does nothing after pertronix install Reply with quote

I have a 71 Super Beetle that was idling fine. I then installed a Pertronix Ignitor 2 electronic ignition. After this unit was installed my idle speed jumped up substantially. I attempted to reduce my idle speed using the bypass screw, but I can screw it all the way in and the idle speed doesn't decrease and the car doesn't die. It appears the choke is working fine. After the carb is warmed up the butterfly is standing straight up.

Any ideas of what I might be missing or how I can fix this?
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you reset the timing?
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RyantheBusMan
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The timing was set at the garage a couple weeks ago, but not since I added the electronic ignition. I don't have the tools to set the timing so I think it need to take her back to the shop.

Do you think it would be okay to drive her to the shop with the idle running fast? It's about a 30 minute drive.
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OLD VW NUT
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reason for your fast idle is the ignition timing is way off. You can't just throw new parts in the engine and expect it to work without adjustments made. Don't drive it for 30 seconds much less 30 minutes if you like your motor. Go rent a timing light and someone that can use it before driving your car. Post the distributor model - this is very important in knowing how to time and which marks to use. Even better is get to know your car - learn how to time it - you'll only need to do it once. Thats the beauty of the 'electronic' style ignition.

FWIW I doubt that screw you were screwing with would have done much prior to installing the pertronix - one has nothing to do with the other. One is fuel - the other is fire.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the engine is running at all with the bypass screw all the way in, then either (1) your throttle butterfly is not completely closed at idle like it is supposed to be, or (2) you have a
serious vacuum leak somewhere. (1) can be solved by adjusting your carb the way it's supposed to be (details in your Bentley manual), (2) will require hunting down and
correcting the leak or leaks, which can occur in many places.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dude...its your timing. Re-set your bypass screw to specs and put your timing mark to where it should be.
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carsdlt
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dude...its your timing. Re-set your bypass screw to specs and put your timing mark to where it should be.
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Bob Brugge
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

carsdlt wrote:
Dude...its your timing. Re-set your bypass screw to specs and put your timing mark to where it should be.

How exactly does taking your points out and replacing them with a Pertronix change where the distributor is sitting? I would certainly check the timing to insure that it is still accurate, but can you please explain how removing and replacing those particular parts would cause the car to magically jump time?
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RyantheBusMan
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a a SVDA distributor and I picked up a timing light today. I was following the instructions I found on YouTube, but I can't get the light to turn off when a I spin the distributor. It says on no matter how far I spin it in either direction.

What would cause the test light to say on in ever position?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this a real timing light with a strobe that hooks up to the battery and also the #1 spark plug wire?

That is what you need.
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RyantheBusMan
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No this is the cheap test light that connects to the negative side of the coil.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well that is not going to work.

Find something that looks more like this.....

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DuaneL
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob Brugge wrote:
carsdlt wrote:
Dude...its your timing. Re-set your bypass screw to specs and put your timing mark to where it should be.

How exactly does taking your points out and replacing them with a Pertronix change where the distributor is sitting? I would certainly check the timing to insure that it is still accurate, but can you please explain how removing and replacing those particular parts would cause the car to magically jump time?

The same way that Dwell (gap) effects timing (changing dwell moves timing slightly) so replacing points, set to a certain dwell (gap) with a pertronix which has no dwell (gap) adjustment can effect timing.
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RyantheBusMan
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to go pick up a timing light gun. What should it be set at for a svda distributor?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What kind of timing marks does your pulley have? My 71 Super came witha DVDA that was timed to the notch which was at 5º ATDC.

In general we hook up the timing light correctly first. Then we remove the vacuum hose(s) and rev up the engine until the centrifical advance no longer advances even if you give it more gas (it will be around 3500 RPMs or so). Make that point to be 30º BTDC +/- 2º.

Do it a couple of times so you will know it is correct. Let it loaf back to idle and hook up the vacuum hose(s). Set the idle to about 850 RPMs.

GO for a ride and see if the engine likes that.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So this horse walks into a bar and says to the bartender,

" I would like a cold beer and a deck of cards...."


Last edited by Randy in Maine on Fri Jul 24, 2015 12:42 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob Brugge wrote:

How exactly does taking your points out and replacing them with a Pertronix change where the distributor is sitting? I would certainly check the timing to insure that it is still accurate, but can you please explain how removing and replacing those particular parts would cause the car to magically jump time?


You serious?

Check your timing, go change your points gap (a/k/a dwell) then check your timing again and get back to us.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
One more thing....the idle speed is adjusted using the tiny little "volume" screw on the right side of the carb.

According to the Bentley it is actually a combination of the volume screw and bypass screw, Starting with the volume screw 2.5 to 3 turns open adjust idle with bypass screw to 800 - 900 rpm then adjust volume screw to highest idle and back off 20 -30 rpm then reset Idle with bypass screw to 800 - 900
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
One more thing....the idle speed is adjusted using the tiny little "volume" screw on the right side of the carb.


What? That small screw is not the idle speed, it's the volume of fuel (or mixture) The large screw is the air bypass screw, which allows for higher or lower idle engine speeds!


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RyantheBusMan
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These may be silly questions, but I've never worked with a timing light gun before.

Does the timing gun show the idle RPMS?
Where should my timing mark be when it is set correctly?

This is a screen shot from a YouTube video I was watching. Is this what I'm trying to accomplish?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note that I have a 71 Super Beetle with a SVDA distributor. [/img]
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