Bugpack (?) steering/cutting brakes?

[manxdavid]

I've picked up a pair of old (possibly?) Bugpack cutting brakes but they won't work with my stock '70 style or accessory EMPI chrome e-brake handle. Would anyone have a photo of similar types installed and know what year of handle they'll work best with?

[Meco]

The photo you tried to post didn't appear.

[BL3Manx]

Dave, I think to make those work you'd need to do something like this. Even so, I'm sure you could make something that looks/works better than the flat bar for the levers to rest in. I also think you'd need to shorten the cable from the rear (maybe cut off, drill out and silver solder the loop back on) instead of using the usual big buggy fittings in front

[manxdavid]

Thanks Nelson. I just thought that there was maybe something missing. I remember thse hanging on the walls of VW places back in the 80s but never bought one. I guess they weren't that good to begin with? I just presumed they'd fit with a stock lever and retain it's function but it apears not. I'll Mexican-ere something when I get a chance.

[Buggy Brian]

Here's the best picture I have of mine for now. I can take a better one later. It appears yours are almost identical to mine. Joe can tell you the details on the cable shortening, but he did add the flat plate to the stock handle.

The biggest pain for me was finding the grips for them after the re-chroming. The original ones were a harder rubber that had split. It took me a bit of searching, but found a company that sells them in bulk, but they linked me to a company that sold them by the pair. I had to buy 5 pairs, but had plenty of people in Carlisle to take the extras off my hands at cost. I believe I have one set left.

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-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436

Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx

Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983

[manxdavid]

Thanks, I can see what I need to do now.

Do you know what size bolt you used to secure them and the e brake?

[Buggy Brian]

That question I'd have to deflect to joescoolcustoms. He did the install and modification. I'll ask him to post more information here.
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-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436

Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx

Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983

[joescoolcustoms]

These are more nostalgia than function. They will help a little if you are stuck in something soft and use it gently to apply friction to the spinning wheel and coax the other to apply power and get un-stuck.

Used as a steering brake to lock up one side and slide the buggy will result in broken E-Brake cables.

The original design was to remove the E-Brake handle and run just these. I weld on the flat stock to make them functional as a working E-Brake. I still have a set in the BugPack blister pack and the only thing with them is the bolt. No instructions. And the bolt sucks. It is too short to use a washer on each end to help stabilize the brake levers and keep them in somewhat of a consistent position. And it is smaller in diameter than the original pivot pin, which gives a sloppy feel.

So, for both Brian's and mine that Nelson posted above, I get a longer bolt, several washers and a nyloc nut. I space the washers on both the inside and outside of the levers to make them comply with staying in consistent alignment. If they flop around, the cables pop out of the arched cable slots and start pinching themselves.

I cannot get to my Baja floor to take a measurement of the bolt, but it is about 1 inch longer than the original.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

[Glasser]

I have used these in a Tube Frame buggy. As Joe says more for looks than function as they only use one of your brake shoes. If that is what you are going for carry on. If you want function then hydraulic ones are the way to go. They use both shoes and will easily lock up individual wheels. The problem with the hydraulic ones is, besides needing to tie into your rear brake line you need to keep your brakes adjusted properly at all times. If you don't and have too much travel in the steering brake lever you will wreck the orings in the cutting brakes. The foot brake will always override the cutting brake handle. If you have one lever pulled and stomp on the brake both wheels will brake.Your hand will actually get pulled forward on the cutting brake handle.
I do not believe either cutting brake systems are street legal.....
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Brent
My build up http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=265364&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Project#2. Neighbors build up. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=327008

[manxdavid]

I only really want them as a 'period piece' so not too bothered about function. I think the stock pin's 16mm so was wondering about the bolt as this isn't a stock metric size and imperial/inch fasteners aren't that common over here these days. I may try to get a 5/8 unf and see how it goes though. Thanks for all of your help.