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Should I buy this bus?!? '74 Campmobile
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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, now the mystery is troubling me if the trash can and lid still exist! I just did a quick little search, I never would of thought that there would much value or matter to an old plastic trash can.
On another note, the only thing that is a negative, and of rust concern is the driver side floorpan. As you can see, it is rusted through, but with salvageable metal around, I was hoping a plasma cutter and welding a new piece of metal will eliminate my problem.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Aside from the driver floorpan, the only other cancerous rust is the aux. battery tray in the engine bay, the rest of the engine compartment is clean and solid. Seems weird the driver pan would be so bad and everything is still solid, even the middle and rear floorpans are good, so knowing the rust situation currently, I'm expecting to find some more along the way.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Water from a windshield leak ends up there.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your rust issues look relatively minor. Check out the barndoor bus forum and you will feel lucky. Do not throw anything away that you think may have possibly come with the bus. Post it here if you aren't sure.
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Last edited by Pinetops on Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was really puzzled with the rust pinpointed to one specific area, and being so bad. I took a couple shots of the underneath just behind the slider and just in front of the rear axle. I think, well compared to my typical sightings of jeeps.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Looks pretty solid, right?!? I'm being very optimistic and eager to put life under this loaf of adventure.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, it looks pretty solid. I do see what looks like some surface rust but overall it looks good. The pics are blurry but it looks like it may have been undercoated when new. Some people don't like undercoating but it has saved a lot of buses from rusting away in my opinion. One downside is it can sometimes hide issues. I see some rust there but it doesn't look serious. You'll want to do a thorough rust evaluation when you get it home. The front beam is something that can cause you to wreck if its rusted through. Then you'll want to deal with the rust in the somewhat near future. You'll want to do your best to stop its progression.

And the rust pinpointed to certain areas is common on these buses. They usually rust out in certain areas first and then just all over. Buses that are otherwise rust free will often have a rusted through battery tray, front floor and bottom windshield lip. The track where the belt line piece fits the body over the slider door track (and same spot on other side), other window bottoms, inside cargo doors, rain gutters and rockers are other common places for rust to start.
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Bala
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still looking like an awesome buy!
Can't wait to see the extraction and initial clean up!
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jtauxe Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SamboSamba22 wrote:
On another note, the only thing that is a negative, and of rust concern is the driver side floorpan. As you can see, it is rusted through, but with salvageable metal around, I was hoping a plasma cutter and welding a new piece of metal will eliminate my problem.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I have that same spot gone in my '73, and have been searching for a good replacement panel. KlassicFab does not seem to make one for the '73-'79 body style. A.S. Schofield has one, I think, but some of the details seem off:
http://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/prod_2474330-Cab-Floor-Repair-7279-LHD-Left-211801053A.html

Here's your left side battery tray. This one is "Genuine VW" (which probably means VW Brazil):
http://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/prod_252141...165NR.html

and then there is this one, which has the battery clamping hardware, in case you ever want to actually mount a battery over there:
http://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/prod_252143...165BC.html
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya don't forget your camera!
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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It never occurred to me to think, hmmm, the infamous windshield leak, that's a relief! After sharing the links to A. S. Scofield's, I'm thinking now I have the left side battery tray, is that the Auxiliary one and the right is the operational battery tray? This thing was buried alive, it still has a battery hooked up, but its on the left, and me assuming (I know, one should never do so), I thought it was the secondary tray.
In just a couple days this big orange bus will be moving and stretching parts it has forgotten about over the years, and I do believe my smile will be wider than the front bumper. Have faith men, I will show the unburied progression to clean up, and hopefully not too much longer, mechanical progression. Again, thank you all for the constructive feedback and positive vibes, I do believe this westy wants to be saved.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, starter battery on the right side, auxiliary battery on left side (for camping stuff). They don't all have the 2nd battery. Sometimes the right battery tray rusts out and people move it to the left side. It's better to just repair the battery tray. The battery trays rust due to a few things. They are flat, water comes in through the air vents and sits on them and the battery fumes create a breeding ground for rust.

Go get that bad boy!

Speaking of buried:


Link

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Sage79
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a bay I rescued the battery was re-installed on the driver's side because the passenger side tray was all rusted away. I imagine that's pretty common.
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whatdoesthisbuttondo?
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"I have that same spot gone in my '73, and have been searching for a good replacement panel. KlassicFab does not seem to make one for the '73-'79 body style."

Not sure if there are any more still around but I got a front floor panel for '73 made by klassicfab. Their website is a little sparse right now but you might be able to find a distributor that still has them. I think it was around $300 for the full front floor.
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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the general opinion of replacing the "patch" in the floor pan with a fresh piece of metal, welded in place after removing the old, rotted portion with a plasma cutter. Then when welding is complete in with the floorpan, make a nice circular hole for drainage and use a rubber seal/plug as you find in Jeeps, because I have a handful of those drain plugs around? That way you have drainage for the inevitable windshield leak and simplicity of wet washing the floors after a weekend in the woods or camping when it rains or snows??? How easy is to eliminate the windshield leak on a Bay Window, seems quite common, no? I'm kinda liking the patch idea with a drain hole, I have a couple buddies that weld and would have scrap metal lying around to use instead of paying someone with Paypal and waiting on shipping, let alone locating the correct pan. Let me know what you all thank. Happy Hump Day, with a little humor.

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Bala
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That spot in the cab floor is not that difficult to repair. Pretty easy to access and not much underneath it to worry about. I have the same rust in mine. I went to a salvage yard and just cut out what I needed from a donor. It is spot welded, so you'll need an air hammer or nice sized chisel along with the sawzall to get what you need.

I would fix the leak before I installed any drain. It's very possible it's just the seal. They dry and shrink quite a bit. hopefully you don't have any lip rust through. Put a rubber mat in there instead of or over the carpet and clean up is pretty easy.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best option is always to replace it with the closest to original piece of metal that you had to cut out. The indentions in the metal are there for a reason. They add strength mostly. It's your bus so you can do what you want. If you want to fiberglass patch it up for the time being, go for it. It's a hack job but it'll work for now. You could also rivet a piece of metal over the rusted area to be cut out until you are ready to fix it. This would be easier to remove than fiberglass.


If you're going to weld in a new piece of metal my advice is to get the correct piece of metal. You are lucky you won't have much metal to replace so why not do it right?

The only quality makers/sellers of metal for these buses that I know of are original VW (cut out of another bus), klassicfab, wolfsburg west, and autcraft. The cheap stuff isn't usually worth using, it may be doable though for a floor patch. You wouldn't want to replace the entire floor with a cheap aftermarket floor, it would be a nightmare.

This bus is basically going to be a member of the family, give it the care it deserves.

As far as drain holes, you could do that. It won't hurt anything but once the bus isn't sitting out in the rain all the time its not really necessary in my opinion. Remember "A rolling bus gathers no rust". (unless you drive on salted roads!)
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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't think of the structural importance of the lines and grooves in the original pan, makes total sense. Are the windshields just a rubber gasket set, roped in with the seal and gasket, meaning no glue? The windshield is pitted and has a nice little chip in the center so perhaps replacing the glass, I'll purchase a nice new, fitted seal to end this water entering the cab. I am apparently tied to the "normal" wet toes of driving a Jeep, I gotta remember, "it's a bus, it's a bus.."
Thanks gentlemen.
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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I am unable to find a key for the bus. I know about removing the door handle and looking for the key code, I just haven't gotten to removing the door panel and a set of tools to pull the handle off. My question, does the steering wheel lock without a key? With the manual transmission moving it isn't a problem but if the steering won't maneuver that'll be a pain!
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it will be locked in place on a '74 without the key. First ask the owner to search high and low for the key, did you look in the glove box and other places in the bus? I know its packed to the gills.

I think you can get the key code of the ignition. You may be able to get it off the door locks too but I'm not sure. There are people in the samba classifieds who can cut you a new key with the code.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=553520&highlight=lost+key

http://www.ratwell.com/mirror/bclausen/How_to_files/IgnSw/index.html
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you get it on tires. Do a search for a hide a key.

Do yourself a favor and before you buy or repair anything. Give us a heads up.
Like the windshield. Some are too thin and leak. Not to mention that not all the windshield seals fit right.Too many times members buy parts or start repairs and find out after the fact.

Good Luck
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SamboSamba22 wrote:
So I am unable to find a key for the bus. I know about removing the door handle and looking for the key code, I just haven't gotten to removing the door panel and a set of tools to pull the handle off. My question, does the steering wheel lock without a key? With the manual transmission moving it isn't a problem but if the steering won't maneuver that'll be a pain!


The rear hatch lock is easy to pop out and get the code from. Assuming all the locks are keyed alike still. No need to use a plasma cutter there, tin snips or a rotary cut off tool will be fine.
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