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SamboSamba22 Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2015 Posts: 2772 Location: Benton, Arkansas
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Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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Man, now the mystery is troubling me if the trash can and lid still exist! I just did a quick little search, I never would of thought that there would much value or matter to an old plastic trash can.
On another note, the only thing that is a negative, and of rust concern is the driver side floorpan. As you can see, it is rusted through, but with salvageable metal around, I was hoping a plasma cutter and welding a new piece of metal will eliminate my problem.
Aside from the driver floorpan, the only other cancerous rust is the aux. battery tray in the engine bay, the rest of the engine compartment is clean and solid. Seems weird the driver pan would be so bad and everything is still solid, even the middle and rear floorpans are good, so knowing the rust situation currently, I'm expecting to find some more along the way. |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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Water from a windshield leak ends up there.
Tcash |
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Pinetops Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2007 Posts: 2987
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Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 6:26 pm Post subject: |
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Your rust issues look relatively minor. Check out the barndoor bus forum and you will feel lucky. Do not throw anything away that you think may have possibly come with the bus. Post it here if you aren't sure. _________________ "A rolling bus gathers no rust."
Last edited by Pinetops on Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:55 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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SamboSamba22 Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2015 Posts: 2772 Location: Benton, Arkansas
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Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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I was really puzzled with the rust pinpointed to one specific area, and being so bad. I took a couple shots of the underneath just behind the slider and just in front of the rear axle. I think, well compared to my typical sightings of jeeps.
Looks pretty solid, right?!? I'm being very optimistic and eager to put life under this loaf of adventure. |
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Pinetops Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2007 Posts: 2987
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Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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Yep, it looks pretty solid. I do see what looks like some surface rust but overall it looks good. The pics are blurry but it looks like it may have been undercoated when new. Some people don't like undercoating but it has saved a lot of buses from rusting away in my opinion. One downside is it can sometimes hide issues. I see some rust there but it doesn't look serious. You'll want to do a thorough rust evaluation when you get it home. The front beam is something that can cause you to wreck if its rusted through. Then you'll want to deal with the rust in the somewhat near future. You'll want to do your best to stop its progression.
And the rust pinpointed to certain areas is common on these buses. They usually rust out in certain areas first and then just all over. Buses that are otherwise rust free will often have a rusted through battery tray, front floor and bottom windshield lip. The track where the belt line piece fits the body over the slider door track (and same spot on other side), other window bottoms, inside cargo doors, rain gutters and rockers are other common places for rust to start. _________________ "A rolling bus gathers no rust." |
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Bala Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2003 Posts: 2613 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 6:56 am Post subject: |
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Still looking like an awesome buy!
Can't wait to see the extraction and initial clean up! _________________ 1976 Westy
1966 Beetle |
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jtauxe Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2004 Posts: 5778 Location: Los Alamos, New Mexico
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 7:46 am Post subject: |
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SamboSamba22 wrote: |
On another note, the only thing that is a negative, and of rust concern is the driver side floorpan. As you can see, it is rusted through, but with salvageable metal around, I was hoping a plasma cutter and welding a new piece of metal will eliminate my problem.
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I have that same spot gone in my '73, and have been searching for a good replacement panel. KlassicFab does not seem to make one for the '73-'79 body style. A.S. Schofield has one, I think, but some of the details seem off:
http://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/prod_2474330-Cab-Floor-Repair-7279-LHD-Left-211801053A.html
Here's your left side battery tray. This one is "Genuine VW" (which probably means VW Brazil):
http://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/prod_252141...165NR.html
and then there is this one, which has the battery clamping hardware, in case you ever want to actually mount a battery over there:
http://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/prod_252143...165BC.html _________________ John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 8:06 am Post subject: |
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Ya don't forget your camera! |
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SamboSamba22 Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2015 Posts: 2772 Location: Benton, Arkansas
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 9:00 am Post subject: |
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It never occurred to me to think, hmmm, the infamous windshield leak, that's a relief! After sharing the links to A. S. Scofield's, I'm thinking now I have the left side battery tray, is that the Auxiliary one and the right is the operational battery tray? This thing was buried alive, it still has a battery hooked up, but its on the left, and me assuming (I know, one should never do so), I thought it was the secondary tray.
In just a couple days this big orange bus will be moving and stretching parts it has forgotten about over the years, and I do believe my smile will be wider than the front bumper. Have faith men, I will show the unburied progression to clean up, and hopefully not too much longer, mechanical progression. Again, thank you all for the constructive feedback and positive vibes, I do believe this westy wants to be saved. |
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Pinetops Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2007 Posts: 2987
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 9:27 am Post subject: |
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Yep, starter battery on the right side, auxiliary battery on left side (for camping stuff). They don't all have the 2nd battery. Sometimes the right battery tray rusts out and people move it to the left side. It's better to just repair the battery tray. The battery trays rust due to a few things. They are flat, water comes in through the air vents and sits on them and the battery fumes create a breeding ground for rust.
Go get that bad boy!
Speaking of buried:
Link
_________________ "A rolling bus gathers no rust." |
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Sage79 Samba Member
Joined: September 13, 2008 Posts: 433 Location: Holland MI
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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On a bay I rescued the battery was re-installed on the driver's side because the passenger side tray was all rusted away. I imagine that's pretty common. _________________ Dirk
'79 Westy 2.0FI
'73 Sportsmobile 1.7dual Solex 003Auto - now my daughter's
'77 delux 2.0FI 090Auto - now my son's |
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whatdoesthisbuttondo? Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2012 Posts: 259 Location: Victoria
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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"I have that same spot gone in my '73, and have been searching for a good replacement panel. KlassicFab does not seem to make one for the '73-'79 body style."
Not sure if there are any more still around but I got a front floor panel for '73 made by klassicfab. Their website is a little sparse right now but you might be able to find a distributor that still has them. I think it was around $300 for the full front floor. _________________ Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023). |
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SamboSamba22 Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2015 Posts: 2772 Location: Benton, Arkansas
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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What is the general opinion of replacing the "patch" in the floor pan with a fresh piece of metal, welded in place after removing the old, rotted portion with a plasma cutter. Then when welding is complete in with the floorpan, make a nice circular hole for drainage and use a rubber seal/plug as you find in Jeeps, because I have a handful of those drain plugs around? That way you have drainage for the inevitable windshield leak and simplicity of wet washing the floors after a weekend in the woods or camping when it rains or snows??? How easy is to eliminate the windshield leak on a Bay Window, seems quite common, no? I'm kinda liking the patch idea with a drain hole, I have a couple buddies that weld and would have scrap metal lying around to use instead of paying someone with Paypal and waiting on shipping, let alone locating the correct pan. Let me know what you all thank. Happy Hump Day, with a little humor.
Me: Are you a whale?
Girlfriend: Excuse me?!?!
Me: If so, we can humpback at my place.
Girlfriend: You're a dumbass. |
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Bala Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2003 Posts: 2613 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 2:05 pm Post subject: |
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That spot in the cab floor is not that difficult to repair. Pretty easy to access and not much underneath it to worry about. I have the same rust in mine. I went to a salvage yard and just cut out what I needed from a donor. It is spot welded, so you'll need an air hammer or nice sized chisel along with the sawzall to get what you need.
I would fix the leak before I installed any drain. It's very possible it's just the seal. They dry and shrink quite a bit. hopefully you don't have any lip rust through. Put a rubber mat in there instead of or over the carpet and clean up is pretty easy. _________________ 1976 Westy
1966 Beetle |
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Pinetops Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2007 Posts: 2987
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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The best option is always to replace it with the closest to original piece of metal that you had to cut out. The indentions in the metal are there for a reason. They add strength mostly. It's your bus so you can do what you want. If you want to fiberglass patch it up for the time being, go for it. It's a hack job but it'll work for now. You could also rivet a piece of metal over the rusted area to be cut out until you are ready to fix it. This would be easier to remove than fiberglass.
If you're going to weld in a new piece of metal my advice is to get the correct piece of metal. You are lucky you won't have much metal to replace so why not do it right?
The only quality makers/sellers of metal for these buses that I know of are original VW (cut out of another bus), klassicfab, wolfsburg west, and autcraft. The cheap stuff isn't usually worth using, it may be doable though for a floor patch. You wouldn't want to replace the entire floor with a cheap aftermarket floor, it would be a nightmare.
This bus is basically going to be a member of the family, give it the care it deserves.
As far as drain holes, you could do that. It won't hurt anything but once the bus isn't sitting out in the rain all the time its not really necessary in my opinion. Remember "A rolling bus gathers no rust". (unless you drive on salted roads!) _________________ "A rolling bus gathers no rust." |
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SamboSamba22 Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2015 Posts: 2772 Location: Benton, Arkansas
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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I didn't think of the structural importance of the lines and grooves in the original pan, makes total sense. Are the windshields just a rubber gasket set, roped in with the seal and gasket, meaning no glue? The windshield is pitted and has a nice little chip in the center so perhaps replacing the glass, I'll purchase a nice new, fitted seal to end this water entering the cab. I am apparently tied to the "normal" wet toes of driving a Jeep, I gotta remember, "it's a bus, it's a bus.."
Thanks gentlemen. |
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SamboSamba22 Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2015 Posts: 2772 Location: Benton, Arkansas
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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So I am unable to find a key for the bus. I know about removing the door handle and looking for the key code, I just haven't gotten to removing the door panel and a set of tools to pull the handle off. My question, does the steering wheel lock without a key? With the manual transmission moving it isn't a problem but if the steering won't maneuver that'll be a pain! |
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Pinetops Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2007 Posts: 2987
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 6:17 pm Post subject: |
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When you get it on tires. Do a search for a hide a key.
Do yourself a favor and before you buy or repair anything. Give us a heads up.
Like the windshield. Some are too thin and leak. Not to mention that not all the windshield seals fit right.Too many times members buy parts or start repairs and find out after the fact.
Good Luck
Tcash |
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ToolBox Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 3439 Location: Detroit, where they don't jack parts off my ride in the parking lot of the 7-11
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 8:41 am Post subject: |
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SamboSamba22 wrote: |
So I am unable to find a key for the bus. I know about removing the door handle and looking for the key code, I just haven't gotten to removing the door panel and a set of tools to pull the handle off. My question, does the steering wheel lock without a key? With the manual transmission moving it isn't a problem but if the steering won't maneuver that'll be a pain! |
The rear hatch lock is easy to pop out and get the code from. Assuming all the locks are keyed alike still. No need to use a plasma cutter there, tin snips or a rotary cut off tool will be fine. |
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